Jump to content

Rover8FFR

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,546

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Rover8FFR

    Austin Champ oils

    in Lubrication, Batteries & Electrics

    Posted

    Hi all

    Just found the answers on another part of this forum, back in 2009.

    Thanks

     

    Simon

     

    Simpn this was again topic recently in Rampant Rivets thread on oil application.

     

    Mr Elliott kindly linked a document in PDF format that is very useful and will help no end.

     

    It may be the same doscument you found?????

     

    Cheers

    Raf cosford visit

    in Battlefields, museums, monuments and memorials.

    Posted

    Oh I see! Any guidance on the 3 different known to me colour schemes to Norway (etc) vehicles from your archive.

     

    I see the All White Cdo LTWT in MC's book as an image, but he refers to White and Black. AKA Hagglunds BV206 and he also refers to a White base with green and black DP over.............

     

    This last one intrigues me the most and would love to see an image on an inservice vehicle for that.

    Raf cosford visit

    in Battlefields, museums, monuments and memorials.

    Posted

    Missle??????

     

    Good question as I was lucky to get those images as Henri-D was running around like a chimp on E numbers, he was so excited!................He had a brilliant day I must confess.

     

    I noticed a lot of differnces there, but didn't spot the Malkara. I am guessing it was in the Cold War Hanger, with all the other missles and weapons of MD!..........

     

    Ooops I feel I have failed the FV1600 fraternity today.:cry:

     

    I enjoyed the 'Fat Albert' in the overspill carpark..........Great Tool.

     

    I was looking at the Hagglunds for colour scheme for Norway. DP white and black....They also did all White......Mark Cook's book also mentioned white with black and green over???????????

     

    Now that would be interesting cammo for a Commando Winterised Lightweight......:-)

    Now the work will start with 13BK33 FV1611A

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted

    Very possibly but first check that it is for a hexagonal shaft.

     

    So with VAT that is £26.34, they won't declare the P&P until you buy it, then add VAT to P&P. So that's going to be £30 just for a knob.

     

    If that was the last thing you were stuck for before taking it on the road, it would be tempting I suppose. On the other hand in the present state it is in there are a lot of things that need attending to first. It might be worth biding your time & put the knob on the "things to look out for" list that you could pick up cheaper at your leisure.

     

    Needle scaler is a good move. I also have a Clark but always forget to oil it. Make sure the grub screws are kept tight. The thread has worn out on one of the holes & the barrel keeps unscrewing itself. Unless you have a large capacity compressor use it for about a minute at a time waiting for pressure to come up to max again. It will be more efficient than using it until the needles are hardly move & then you have an even longer wait for pressure up. So time share the needling with another task to turn to when you start to lose a useful working pressure.

     

    Oh Clive you have peed on my Bonfire.....I was so impressed with finding that elusive switch......

    Indeed it does say 'Push On' so sounds favorable!!!!

     

    I agree that such an item would be way down on the list, but came across it looking for the switches for a fuel change over tap on Landies on the same site.........Of course I would rather find one at an Auto Jumble etc for Pence.......Better knowing it was for classic cars also, so spreads the net a little...................

     

    I noticed the grub screws on the Scaler and will see how they go! You are correct about the pressure being best to be most effective. When we used the Wally sparkplug cleaner that definately made a difference once the tank had re-filled. I have an inline lubricator with my compressor so the couple of drops every minute etc is taken care of.

     

    I am expecting the larger areas to be treatable with the different grade flapper discs on the 4inch Grinder as they are great at removing to bare metal or flattening the paint.

    Series 3 Lightweight 24v FFR Winterised

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted · Edited by Rover8FFR
    added link

    Been spraying and cleaning up today......Discovered the Greenhouse makes an excellent spray booth......

     

    I believe these Lucas switches are still available, but can't remember which vintage vehicle site I spotted them last!

     

    .........................................I remember now.............. http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0535&agName=Brake+Light+Switches&pCode=31893 .............

     

    They do however clean up okay with a little TLC.

     

    Will rig up a little 12v test lamp to see if they work when circuit opened and closed.

     

    Before Condition and after :-D

     

    20120408_173933.jpg

     

    Photo of sprayed stuff to follow;

    Austin Champ 05 BE 56

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted

    With all that grinding she will have a whole new explanation for Green Fingers........

     

    When the Champ is complete and Mrs T drives her she will be even more excited now having picked up the spanners and mucked in on her re-birth.

     

    Did any of that regiment bumf help you on the other thread mate????

     

    I can't remember which copies, but a lot of that stuff gets covered in Windscreen Mags????

     

    Keep up the good work and well done Mr & Mrs RR :D

    Champ markings

    in British Vehicles

    After blasting and Kurust treatment is Primer Needed?

    in MV Chatter

    Posted

    There is no doubt in my mind that current 'red oxide' is not worth the writing on the can.

    30 years ago I was buying 5 gal drums of ex Mod Red Oxide and they were so heavy it took two of you to lift the drum, stuff I painted then has no signs of rust to this day they had a high lead and high varnish content, what it has done to me spraying without the aid of modern charcoal masks remains to be seen.... I can still count to ten and recognise a jeep at 30 paces so I may be lucky although some who know me probably will say it explains a lot !!.

     

    Seriously though I think there are now two ways to go either use an etch primer and a gloss undercoat or use a zinc rich primer and a gloss undercoat.

     

    Pete

     

    Pete the bits I have had blasted recently were either hot gas zinc sprayed and then received Leighs Paints Epoxy Red Primer (exposed parts) or were epoxy on blasted parts (semi exposed or internal / covered).

     

    The high pack epoxy primers are what is used on steelwork in buildings now so very tough.

     

    I asked as I thought the Kurust would act as a primer, but with all these vehicles I suspect the better the prep the more protected the parts will be.

     

    I guess the proof will be in the results in a few years.

     

    Sad thing is that Red Lead was the wonder product paint wise.............There must be something out there that is close to the old super primer?????

    Now the work will start with 13BK33 FV1611A

    in Blogs of MV restorations

    Posted

    Well the modern high pressure oil lubricator has arrived and it is a bit more industrial than the Andy 5000X.

     

    I intend to use this for oil and the Andy for Grease as it is full of the stuff right now.

     

    The end attachment is larger than the Pigs 11B Nipples, so I guess Industrial sized for Tractors and HGV's. So will need to be changed.

    Modern Oil Lubricator.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...