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Posts posted by Rover8FFR
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A very good friend from the forum with a VERY NICE collection offered some old spares that were serviceable for my winterised lightweight.
Very nice as the spare heater has a 24v Blower and the correct electrics. My modified to 12v did not and had the screening box omitted.
One part handed over was a new back plate still all wrapped up. Upon closer inspection is has two additional outlets of a slightly larger diameter.
I am intrigued to know if this was used in another Land Rover. Possibly a 101?????
Any ideas please..........
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Spot the deliberate mistake in this Photo......
Oops!
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Wayne I think you should paint them yourself ! Much more rewarding ! :-D
I don't think he would offer mate.......Yes of course I totally agree with you. Happy Days........ Go steady buddy
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Oh , Deep Bronze Green ! Think I'll have to go for a lie down :nut:! She's coming along very nicely mate !:-D
Doesn't take much at your age does it now Andy?? :rotfl::red:
He is doing a good job I have to agree. I think he should spray my little Piggy and Toastie. What do you reckon??
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We don't charge for admission. We rely on donations for our funding - there are boxes at strategic points inside the Brit, and we leave it to our visitors to decide what we're worth!
Cheers.
Thank you for confirming.....I very much hope to bring Jnr on 3rd June
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you have been busy mukka. Enjoy the tour
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That is quite simply Brilliant!
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What is the admission cost please etc.
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Ahhh. Poor chap. A one off Auction then.
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Now this takes the pop bottle idea to a new level........Quite a good idea I think????
Or even a proper military item to modify???
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Bristol.....Where abouts as I know nothing about that and work in Clifton...One for next year or are they more regular......
Nothing I want but love to window shop........:blush:
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The colour should be Deep Bronze Green.
Trawl through this thread and the paint code is there.
http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?31631-RAF-Blue-Grey-Paint-Code
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Nice Nice Nice.......Pete has PM'd me so not a drama.......
What make of primer did you use, as it is a lovely shade of desert!.........
Looking Good RR.........
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The only problem with those are that you have to suck the fuel up and over the cap, the can has to be used up right.
This is what I have made cost quite a bit but its the biz.... uses a quick release coupling by the quarter turn tap and a plastic hose as a sight glass.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]61790[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]61791[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]61792[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]61793[/ATTACH]
As they say in the Regt.............That's GUCCI...:wow::wow::wow:
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Do it over a high lipped tray. It is very easy to lose your glass balls, they are no more than 3mm diam. Take lots of pictures especially of the choke mechanism as it has ambiguity.
Although that does all need to be done at some stage. You have nothing to lose trying to run it with the drip feed as it is. We got the three restorable Humbers that were at home to run this way & they had been idle for a similar decade I should think. The only issue I had was one of the Pigs had a sticking needle valve or float spindle, but that was corrected with a hide hammer until it freed up.
Yes Clive I remember the You Tube clips and was hoping for a similar outcome I must admit. The gravity feed is the first point of call and then the necessary stripping and cleaning. I remember very well those Glass balls and also the rimmed tray etc. I will also be doing that job in the house, just incase. If those little marbles went boing then in the garage I would have 'No Chance' of recovery as they say!
:cool2:
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Will the Pig be moving under her own steam shortly mate ? :-D
Hopefully Andy. She was cranking last time, but no fuel getting through though.
Wanted to try gravity feed as fuel in tanks smelt like very, very old paint / linseed oil. If you catch my drift :cool2:.
Speaking with Clive I could have a defective fuel pump. I have a NOS replacement, but wanted to try the gravity feed option. Putting the new fuel pump is not a 10 minute job, but will be done eventually of course, once we get the engine to run.
Also the plugs were like new and I suspect were put in by Dale over 10 years ago when she last ran. Clive ran them through his 'Walley' plug cleaner gadget and well they are spotless now......
I will also need to whip the carb off and give it a good cleaning internally etc as would have been dry / emulsified with old fuel after that time.
I will of course be buying a round of drinks when she rumbles into life as well as loading onto You Tube!!!!
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The army have used these adaptors for donkeys years, for running the smaller gen sets, such as Onan and Powerlite.
Everyday is a schoolday Richard. Looking at Ebay link, they ain't cheap though! Is a straight forward and practical solution though running a tube from said jerry can fitting to a banjo fitting or even straight on the fuel inlet on the Toastie and Pig, would be very straight forward. Would be easier than stripping the mower.
I am so very glad that I asked the question now.................:goodidea::yay::dancinggirls:
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Its easily done Ed, I'm dyslexic & very conscious of how things can get transposed.
It an easy one remember. RAF blue-grey? Think of the film 633 Squadron.
Of course owners of 1 Tonne Forward Controls should remember the colour of their engine, 101
Is there a theme of logic ascending here Clive. what a novel way to remember. Any other useful aids to references for Toasties and Pigs you can teach me please.
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Thanks to everyone so far. Loving the participation and ideas.
I must confess I didn't know that an adaptor for a Jerry Can was out there?????
Keep em cumin;)
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Petrol tank of a motorbike or the like.
Mike
Similar to Richards suggestion Mike. Handy if you have an old CB100 lying around.
I must admit the mower tank / motorcycle tanks sound quite safe and secure if you have them lying around.
Has someone out there fabricated / welded up / soldered something quite bespoke and hasn't shared it yet????
Thanks for responses so far and would be even better with some pictures as well.
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Coke bottle and a piece of pipe!
That's certainly more Heath Robinson, but thank's for sharing and it obviously worked for you. Looking at the avatar picture I suspect it was a big Coke bottle. :goodidea:
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Richard you are ahead of the game....I am unaware at the moment as to the working condition of pumps on both and to bi-pass was going to gravity feed straight to the carb, so as to get blood into those veins.
The mower engine is a brilliant suggestion. Especially as one of my petrol mowers is for spares........
It is a small sealed unit and can easily be connected and transported....You are a smart cookie. :cool2:
This is exactly the creativity I was looking for.......
Now for all those others reading this out there......what if you haven't got an old mower lying around.......
How did you do yours........??
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Well I guess most people on this forum will have at some point fabricated a gravity feeding fuel device to get their motors turning.
I have heard of the highly technical fabricated tanks to the downright scary and unsafe.
I was wondering if those that have made such a device and keep it stored on that top shelf in the workshop / garage would share their inventions, possibly even post a picture or three.
I am about to make such a device / apparatus myself, but thought I would create this post first, so I could either copy you are adapt a few versions together.
Cheers
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Started the numbing task of taking back paint and removing the dreaded insulation sheet from the tub.
One attempt was blow torching it off using moderate controlled heat. However on the seat base a warm air gun on the back face seemed to warm the adhesive enough to make it go tacky again and then peel off! That only worked where there were large pieces intact.
I did uncover some unit markings on the rear nearside end panel.
Also uncovered the data plates on the drivers side seat base. After some rubbing and rubbing some more, eventually got the adhesive off.
The rear tailgate was covered in a rubber material I guess to stop trips and slips etc. The hole in the cover I assume would or should have a grommet or cover plate?
I need to crack on with the engine and first I need to replace the bellhousing crossmember that sits too high for an S3. I carefully cut out the proper one from my rotten chassis. It needs some plating, but is serviceable.
Picture of midification needed for brake lines at front.
The seatbase has been hacked to no doubts remove the gearbox at some point. Which is bonkers as the S3 Chassis had a removeable gearbox cross member support to prevent this lazy S2 hatchet job. Question is can such a cut be carefully welded. I would say so!???
Also the seatbase shows where the entry point is for the hot water return via the valve set. Does anyone with winterised knowledge know what rubber boot would have been used to seal between orifice in seatbase and hose???
Is this a Rover 10 ?
in British Vehicles
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That's definitely a later Rover 10.......Nice.