BRDM Driver

Pretty sure AA stop at 3.5 ton? There was a company called Roadsure?

Anyone have any info on this? Who provides it, how much? Cheers!

Magazine not required on a Sterling Laser Blaster! They did manage to break a few bits of their kit getting in and out...

(Dorset Troopers at Purbeck Rally)

Maybe he meant 3 miles range of the gun! (2.9 miles confirmed kill)

The Purbeck Rally starts tomorrow (doesn't really get going until Saturday), down in Dorset. A micro Dorset Steam Fair with various machines on show, cars, bikes, lorries, stationary engines and military vehicles too. I'll be there with my Abbot, so if you visit, say hello!

Just curious to know what people think. Either from military experience or private ownership. I own one of each and I've had slightly more issues with the CVRT but then it is more complex, I guess? FV430 has the bonkers hydraulic fan drives, CVRT has an ignition system.

Obviously didn't want to pay Tank Museum rates! I have an 2 'not tanks' Abbot and Scorpion, but they may not be heavy enough for what Absolute Genius want to do... Probably crushing something or someone... I'm a 10 miles from Weymouth so there would be some costs involved. I'm sure there are some others not too far away, given that we have Armour and Embarkation here too... PM me if either of my tanks are of interest.

Looking for the gun crutch for Scorpion. I have a Sabre one, so at a push, could just modify it, if someone have the semi circular top clamp.

Apparently it actually disperses the heat, thus breaking up the heat signature so the Chally no longer looks 'Chally like'... The underneath consists of copper coils with mylar foil on top, then the green material. it's all held on with magnets which must have caused some navigation issues at some point! All made by a little old lady with a sowing machine, sat in the ATDU workshops for a few weeks.... allegedly... Actually all you need is to drive around with a large slab of polystyrene slapped on the side that's facing the enemy and then project an image of what's on the other side of your tank onto that!

+1 on that. My throttle has a habit of sticking and it can also be opened slightly when getting out of the drivers seat. The cross shaft is right near the back of your feet. (On an Abbot that is...)

We had a non stop queue to see inside the Abbot at Tankfest this weekend. AndyM did a sterling job explaining the in's and out's of the turret and gun to everyone, pretty much non stop for the whole event. And Rick 'Charlie' Chase explaining the intricacies of tank munitions to many of the WoT clans... We also 'made my day' for two serving US Marines who got to see inside the BRDM-2. 'The Fleet' ready for the return run, in the rain....

Hi Malcolm, I cleaned the accelerator pump filter gauzes when I checked all the other jets and the diaphragms look ok too. Good stream of fuel going down the venturi when you hit the accelerator. I'm not sure if the hesitation is due to the clutch biting or it's just a flat spot in the engine fueling. It certainly gets better as the engine warms up.

So that means getting the 'blue screen of death' could be literally true! I'd be extremely wary of going to war in anything Microsoft based....:nut:

Had a look in the carb, it had fish swimming about in the float bowl... well it could have done, there was a lot of water in there... This had caused a bit of corrosion which made a residue almost like sawdust, this was in the slow running jet. So I have just cleaned out the whole carb and all the jets and it's running fine now. It still has a slight stutter if you blip the throttle until it gets past 1500 rpm. If you ease the throttle it runs fine, but it doesn't like a sudden blip, so i guess that's the accelerator pumps putting a bit too much fuel in at that speed. It's always been like though and it usually improves once its fully warmed up. just need to put the firewall back, seat and top armour.... In how many vehicles do you have to take the drivers seat out to get at the carb...:rolleyes:

I'm thinking that the problem is a blocked carb, probably due to all the muck in the fuel filter... I took the pipe off the fuel pump outlet and it pumps great, so tomorrow I'll blow the main fuel line through and check all the carb jets. I did manage to get it running again tonight, but only with the cold start out and the engine got hot pretty quick, so I think it's running really lean... Thanks for all the help so far!

I've cleaned up the fuel pump, but it's not pulling any fuel up. It's running doing a fast tick but the fuel filter bowl is still dry. Obviously an air leak there somewhere as it's not pulling any vacuum. Normally it ticks fast for a few seconds and then goes to the slow tick. The bayonet cap on the bottom of the pump doesn't look like a really good way of getting an air tight seal! I've put more fuel in, before you ask!

Thanks for the suggestions! I've just been starting my diagnosis... The plugs look a little hot having a slight whiteness on the electrode. I just took out the fuel filter and it was full of water with a tide mark of rust about half way up! The fuel pump is missing it's filter altogether! I'm thinking it's running lean and the carb jets are getting clogged with all the rusty crap in the fuel filter. It's been standing for about 6 months and it fired up fine yesterday. The problem developed after about 30 mins actual driving and then got worse and worse. Just out of interest, is there a trick to priming the fuel system? I see there is an air bleed on the filter but the manual says it's not used... Cheers!

Just took the Scorp out for a test run after the clutch rebuild. There was a hesitation in the engine with misfire at around 1000 to 1500 rpm where it loses power and almost stops. As this coincides with the clutch engagement, it made pulling away rather tricky. Once you get through 1500 rpm, it ran fine. Idle was fine too. Very similar to what it was always like when running from cold, but now when hot. This got progressively worse such that I had to keep the engine above 2000 rpm all the time to get back home! Luckily it was only around the corner and I made it back without having to stop anywhere... Once I got home, the engine stopped as soon as I lifted off the gas to let it idle and wouldn't restart. So any ideas where to start looking? I'm going to check fuel filter and plugs first, then distributor, then carbs. (I have a load of spare carbs and ignition parts to swap out with). Cheers,

Just putting my Scorp back together after sorting the gearbox oil seal. Does anyone know the correct position of the gearbox dipstick tube to the stub on the gearbox? They are joined with a length of hose and the position of the tubes in the hose sets the dipstick level, so should the tubes touch inside the joint hose or should there be a gap? Also does anyone know where the 2 wires from the engine fire detection junction box go. They pass through the bulkhead and go via a junction to a relay box. I'm not 100% sure I have one of those? I have the cable from the engine box that ends in 2 bullet connectors. Lastly, any tricks to bleeding the air out of the cooling system. I found the 5 bleed valves (2 on the rad, 1 in the middle of the pipe running over the engine, 1 in the heater feed and 1 on the end of the engine, on the end of a braided hose.) The pipe on the cold side (exit) of the rad seems to have a bit of air in, as you can hear the water sloshing about when you squash it. Cheers!

From the Telegraph in Feb 2015 in an article about Charlie Hebdo shootings : The Slovakian police officers tracked the guns to a shop in the west of Slovakia, where records revealed they were sold legally, as “expand” (expansion) weapons. The sale of such arms is perfectly legal in Slovakia. Expansion weapons are once live firearms that have been mechanically deactivated to fire blanks for use as props in movies, for historical re-enactments or private collections. In Slovakia, such weapons – even the heaviest machine guns – can be sold to anyone over 18 who carries ID. and At least some of the weapons are thought to have passed via Belgium. Last month, a known arms dealer, Neetin Karasular, from the Belgian city of Charleroi, handed himself in to police after seeing Coulibaly’s face on television, and realising that he had sold him the weapons. Karasular is reported to have “bought” the Mini Cooper belonging to Coulibaly’s wife Hayat Boumeddiene, but instead of paying Coulibaly in cash handed over 10 Kalashnikovs, 25 hand guns and 66lb (30kgs) of C4 explosives, according to Belgian newspaper La Nouvelle Gazette. Pretty scary!

Nope, it's the older one. I see the x mod has NSN 2520998150595 which is what's in my parts manual. It's also identified as FV718122. It's cheaper than British Filters ltd, who just quoted me and Marcus Glenn...

I am guessing it's the same as the engine filter, but I won't know until I get it out... (or do you mean same filter housing?)

Anyone know if the CVRT gearbox oil filter is a standard part? Parts manual appears to call it a British Filters Ltd 2027. (Who I have just emailed as they still exist!)

Took my fan to bits this afternoon: The fan unit was already out as I'm doing the clutch, so if anyone needs to swap bearings, this is what I did. Unscrew the small screws holding the giant washer disk things on the end of the pulley and take the plate off. Knock the locking tab washers down flat and undo the bit nut on each end of the shaft. Mine was well tight so I had a crowbar wedged into the fan to lever against. Next there is a large flat plate over the shaft which is held in by a roll pin. This just levers off: It's the same both ends. Next you need to get the fan and the pulley off. They are a tight fit on the shaft, so I used a mahoosive puller: It would be really difficult without one of these! Once the fan and pulley are off, there is a coiled bearing retainer spring which can easily be fished out with a small flat blade screwdriver. It has a small slot at one end for this purpose. The fan side bearing retainer has a couple of belleville spring washers behind it to preload the bearing. Once these are out, the shaft should come out of the central fan housing, mine was not a tight fit. The bearings are different sizes so the shaft comes out in the direction of the biggest bearing. Now you just need to get the bearings off, so bring on the monster puller: And hey presto: I hope this will all go back together ok, just waiting on new bearings...