ArtistsRifles

This months LRO :-) Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Cheers Mike :-) Got a new compression tester on order as the old one seems to have vanished (usual story) :-) Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Latest update - and it is good news!! I got another letter from the DVLA today - this time telling me they cannot find any record of the original VIN/Chassis number for my UAZ on their system. However they accept the photographic proofs submitted and have issued me a new VIN/Chassis number. All I now have to do is get a garage to stamp it onto the chassis and the ID plate then rubber stamp and sign the letter to say it's been done. I then return the letter and get a V5 back to be road legal!! :-) :-) :-)

Quickie list as I'm no expert but may help: * Chassis from from rust/perforations? * Brakes working, no pull to one side, handbrake holds? * Exhaust not blowing? * Emissions levels OK? * All lights working ? * Tyres OK - tread levels good, no cracks or cuts? * Seat belts if fitted OK, no cuts/damage to the webbing ? * Shock absorbers OK? * Steering OK - no excess play in linkages etc? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Time for a works update I finally found the MPH overlay I bought after reading the thread on here - the wife had one of her more successful "tidy up" operations and tidied it away out of sight and mind and it turned up today. I had already had a go at marking the speed divisions on with masking tape - looked OK but there were no figures for the MPH values on the dial: So I removed the masking tape strips, cleaned the surface thoroughly with Meths and marked on the rough centre line to help positioning as there is an opaque carrier film on the overlay: Then I sprayed the surface with water mixed with a couple of drops of washing up liquid as recommended after trimming the overlay to the printed circle (note - this is actually smaller than the instrument dia - if I were to do it again I would trim it oversize and use a scalpel to trim down once fitted). Using the thumb and a hankie I smoothed out all the air bubbles and, as it dried peeled off the carrier paper leaving the speedo looking like this: Doesn't look too bad - I aligned the dot in the centre with the centre of the need and the little tab at the top with the 60 mark as well as ensuring they both lined up with the centre line markings. Should be good one the road (if I ever get there) and easily visible,

Look on the positive side - you can at least go and take the relevant test if you decide you want to/want a newer vehicle! :-) :-) You could have been in the same boat as me now - had all 3 HGV's and lost them on medical grounds so now cannot drive anything over 3500 Kg unless built pre- 1 Jan 1960!!!

Hard top should, I think have a pair of brackets riveted to the inner edge of the tub top.

FWIW - production RL's were all petrol AFAIK - apart from those used by the Danish army.... If you can get a pre-1960 one then the B license is OK, post 1 Jan 1960 and as others have said you will need the C license. They are fun to drive though, albeit lacking in creature comforts (like heaters!!).. :-)

All part of the fun :-) Just wish the bloody rain would stop so I can get on!!! Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Right - back from the hols so as soon as it stops raining I'll be out checking the engine over again. Found the compression tester so that's first on the list.

Well - back from holidays and now ready to bang in the last order of parts to Tarmot over in Poland - basically new door bottoms plus some odd bits and pieces to finish it off. In the meantime the organisation we all love based in Swansea are at it again. A couple of weeks before the holiday I sent off the request for the V5 - I came home to a nice thick letter and thought " Oooh - V5 and the paperwork to get the chassis number they have on record stamped into the chassis" Wrong! - it was a actually a series of forms relating to building a kit car asking what was changed from normal, what had been done with the old parts, what the numbers were on the engine, transmission, axles, steering etc. - In short a form V894 and a form V627/1. So I've filled these in as best I can, pointing out that in fact the vehicle is more or less original with original parts, not modified in any way and now will wait and see what form(s0 they send out next!!!

Saw it for the first time tonight - quite impressed even though I had heard much as shared some concerns over the use of a war setting for an Xmas advert. I think they carried it off very well and it certainly sticks in the mind once seen.

Yes Richard - I put a steel rule across the face and tried both a bright light and feeler gauges. Did the same to the head and both looked OK to me. I have a spare engine with knackered main bearings so if it comes to it I can get it machined as required and rebuild this as a short engine. I hope the answer is a bit simpler though as money is beyond tight. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Thats always a possibility. It's been running quite sweetly since the rebuild but it may have taken this long. Off on holiday so will be stripping it down again when I get back. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Well - back to the drawing board/square 1 engine wise :cry: Headed down to Hampshire on Sunday to collect a Sankey trailer for a friend and all went well till about 10 mins from the destination. Was happily humming along at 50 approaching J9 of the M3 when the NSF tyre decided to blow.... Soon as I heard the clunking I pulled on to the hard should by the 300 yard marker and changed the wheel. However - when I went to pull away the engine was iffy to start and seemed to be a little rough once started. But it pulled away OK so off I went - BUT - by the time I'd travelled the 300 yards onto the slip road the power loss was noticeable and getting worse. So much so that I barely made the top of the grade onto the roundabout and then took 3 or 4 light changes to actually got around on to the exit (1st one luckily) that I needed. In the process I picked up an escort form the police who were very friendly and helpful once the realised the situation. They carried one once I had turned off onto a side road and was crawling along in low range. Unfortunately the side road turned into a hill and things got worse quickly to the point where it just cut out - fortunately in the entrance to a sewage works so I was off the road. Popped the bonnet and had a nose once I'd got the engine to restart and idle - sort of. All looked and sounded sort of OK till I moved the throttle linkage by hand - then I heard funny noises coming from the air cleaner. So I pulled off the flexi-hose and put my hand over it. At idle there was a strong suction as might be expected - but - when the throttle was moved that turned abruptly into a strong pressure that pushed my hand off the pipe. I am thinking valve problems again. When the RAC turned up the guy took the rocker cover off to make sure the valve gear was OK and according to him all was in order - no raised stems indicating a broken valve or jumped push-rods so he thought perhaps a burnt out valve?? Either way the vehicle was immobile so had to be recovered home. Which is where the next set of fun started because by then the Sankey was on the back, the break down truck could not hook the Sankey up so a second truck had to be called out to recover the trailer. Whilst loading it on to the recovery bed it made an escape bid with resulting damage to me, both the recovery drivers and the brand new truck with the Landie on the back Truly a god-awful day!!!:cry: :cry:

Fitted the switch today and - hey presto - instant working indicators, left and right, as well as hazzards!! Electrically all that leaves now is the side repeaters to sort out, the feeds to the heater fan from the new switch and checking the engine sensors. Unfortunately the Achilles heel of the UAZ 469 has struck again - the fuel pump isn't pumping any more!! So that will now need to come off and get repaired so the engine can be run up to temp and the sensors tested.

We had a very late courier delivery today - circa 21:00 Hrs - which turned out to be the BK422-12 hazard switch from Retrodetail in St Petersburg: So tomorrow I'll try fitting that and see how things work. In theory I should get all 4 indicators happily flashing and if I do then I know the column switch is FUBAR and needs replacing. Then the question will have to be where the hell does it go?? All the switch holes are accounted for!

Mark - I can only tell you what I was told by the staff at the HGV testing station. I used #13 on the form. Also - Little Maud was down as "Historic Military Vehicle" for taxation purposes so zero tax if that helps? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Airworthy or static???

Mark - I can only relay what I was told back in 2006 when I first got little Maud. Being ignorant then of such matters I wanted to make sure I was as safe as possible so booked an appointment at the Purfleet testing centre. When I got there their first comment was "we can't test that- it's permanent 6 wheel drive and won't go on the braking rollers". So I pointed out they could use a Tapley meter to test braking efficiency, the age of the vehicle permitted this. Grudgingly, I felt, they accepted this and went over to the vehicle only to ask where the cab door was. I pointed out the only way in was through the roof hatches at which point they refused to test it saying their H&S policies would not allow them to climb more than it took to get up into the cab of a normal truck and told me to use the V112G form. I haven't seen anything written down (and from later experience do not believe this is the VOSA mindset) so I just complied and used that form every year. I believe every virtually every other Stolly owner does the same. I just tried to make sure that all the sytem's worked as the should esp. braking and steering. In fact - if you are interested - I now have a Tapley meter surplus to requirements......

Neat job on the filler cap - but I have to ask why?? The underseat fillers are quite effective at stopping fuel thieves...... Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Compared to this thing the electrics on my S3 FFR was a walk in the park 😀 Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Package from Russian Spares arrived today - new indicator relay, oil pressure switch, door handles inner, mirrors and new outer door handles (lockable). Fitted the new relay in place of the old one and still nothing. Then I noticed the red light on the dash didn't come on when the ignition key was on. Further checking revealed the fuel gauge didn't respond either and that led to the discovery of no power to the instruments. Seemed a bit odd so I traced the power supply back to the under-bonnet fuse box and made sure nothing was broken. I had continuity back to the bottom of the #2 fuse but a volts check revealed no power to this terminal. #1 and #3 were working fine and I remembered from the wiring diagrams that the power feed for #2was jumpered across from #1. First thought was I had put the fuse box in upside down but looking at the old one there were no internal connectors behind the front. At which point I noticed a metal strip across the front between #1 and #2. Looked at the new panel and it was missing there so I removed the screws from the old panel to find that this strip was also in fact removable - so I did. Fitted it to the new fuse panel and everything jumped into life. Embarrassing lesson of the day - do not assume that because every other vehicle I've had that had split power supplies relied on internal paths an Eastern Block vehicle will do the same!! This was the missing part: And this is where it was meant to have gone: With that sorted I turned attention back to the indicators. After pushing one or two of the male connectors on the patch leads back into the vehicles multi-plugs the Right indicators burst into life - at least front and rear did, not the side repeaters so I need to see if there is power to that. Nothing on the left side though so to prove things out I hooked up the right output from the column switch to the left circuit and these then worked. Again no side repeater though. I know the cables belled out OK so I think it must be a poor contact between the bulb and the terminal. [video=youtube_share;8MaphmnhV3g] There are a few indicator switches on eBay so will probably get one there. RS are taking about 13 days for deliveries. Still waiting for the hazard switch to arrive ( there was one included with the order from RS - but the wrong type - needs a round multi-plug) - apparently it was shipped from St Petersburg on the 16th. One that is here I can get rid of all the patch leads and refit the relay properly. A question for other owners - what size screws are used to held the rear of the central scuttle flap down??

If your testing station is like the Purfleet one - you will be turned away and told to fill in the exemption form as (I was told when I tried it) VOSA Health and Safety doesn't let their inspectors climb more than X amount from the floor. The roof hatches on a Stolly are somewhat above this level. They were prepared to use the Tapley meter to test braking so no problem with the permanent 6x6. If you have seat belts fitted they need to work - and not just for the obvious reasons. Stamp hard on a Stollys brakes and you can get the front of the hull almost parallel to the ground so anything not secured in the cab goes forwards. Fast..

Seam sealer is working - roof is dry inside as is the back of the UAZ now. Still wet in front where it is blowing through the knackered window and quarterlight seals but its a big stop forwards to a drier UAZ Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk