ArtistsRifles

Bounced the question off an ex-REME mate who in turn is asking some of his old crew. If I get an answer I'll post it up. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Yes - not so easily as the bearing halves do not want to seperate. However there looks to be enough room to get a lump of wood up under the piston so some impact tech can be used to drive the pistons up. New pistons arrived today: So I need to get a jar of fresh engine oil to soak the cylinder hone in overnight. The bores can then be glaze busted before fitting the new piston assemblies. First though I also need to get a new oil filter element Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

The work progresses! I refitted the speedo the other day - looks quite good with the overlay and it is easily visible whilst on the move. More on that later. Roughly the same time as the Landie died the UAZ also stopped working.. It would fire up whilst spinning over but as soon as the key was released it would die. I thought at first it was the fuel pump again, these being the Achilles heel of the vehicles and when I tried the manual prime I would get maybe 2 or 3 pumps before it would go slack. However when I disconnected the fuel line from the carb and popped it into a jar I pumped about 1/4 litre of fuel with no problems. This kind of ruled out the fuel system as a problem so I asked the question over on the Russian Truck Forum. There I learnt that the UAZ effectively has 2 ignition systems - one for when the engine is cranking and one for when it is running. Obviously the cranking system was OK so the fault must lay with the running one. it was suggested that the ballast resistor on the coil might be faulty however on inspection it turned out the coild did not have a ballast resistor - it wasn't even a UAZ coil but a Lucas one!! It did run though and still fired up on the ignition side of the circuit so I traced the wire back to it's source - the under bonnet fuse box and had a look there. The feed to the coil came from #1 fuse - which was blown. So I rewired it and tried to start again (yes - UAZ fuses still use fuse wire!!). Still no joy and rechecking the fuse was found to be blown again. So I went indoors and got out the various wiring diagrams to see what else could be blowing the fuse. I was considerably to surprised to find one of the very very few points the diagrams agreed on was that the feed to the coil should come from the top connector of fuse #2, not the bottom of fuse #1 Checking both fuses revealed #'1 to be rated at 6A and #2 at 10 A. So I switched the feed to the coil over to the top of '#2 and tried again. Now the UAZ ran sweet as a nut!! At this point I noticed a big puddle of rusty water under the vehicle and no sign of a leak for the engine or radiator. More questions elicited the information that for some odd reason in heavy rain the bell housing will fill with water and soon as the engine starts the fly wheel throws it all out!! So the next operation was to drill a hole as low down in the back of the bell housing as possible. Hopefully now it will just drain straight out.... Now the engine was riunning again I made the appointment to go to the garage and get the chassis number supplied by DVLA stamped on. The vehicle was already insured under the registration number so I made up some temporary plates from the laser Printer using the character set defined by VOSA an tied them on the proceeded to drive the couple of miles to the garage. First issue was i could not engage gear..... Thinking back to Stolly days I immediately suspected a stuck clutch from the damp so I stuck it reverse and tried to start it. That did the trick and I could select all 4 gears. So off I set. The ride was surprisingly good - considering it is "Vorspung durch cartsping teknolgie" as is the Landrover the ride was a lot smoother, especially over speed humps and with less tendency to wander on the road./ The problems were the rear view - which is absolutely appalling with no door mirrors fitted and the hood up/door tops fitted,the fact the only instrument that was working was the ammeter and the speedo needle was flickering quite badly. Oh - and the brakes are sticking - a couple of people got nasty surpises when riding too close behind at red lights as when I lifted off the throttle the UAZ stopped, Dead. The Garage did the necessary and stamped up the form which as now been sent back to DVLA so hopefully sometime in the future I will get the V5 issued so I can go get some proper plates made up. The journey home was also without incident mechanically. Once home I had a look at the no working instruments. It was either going to be the senders or the gauges and dome of the senders are not in the most accessible of places so for ease I swapped out the centre instrument cluster with a new one I had got hold of a while ago. Took a couple of hours to swap all the connections over but once done I restarted the engine. Result!! You can see in the video below the oil pressure gauge responds immediately and the water temp gauge starts to come up after a few minutes running at idle. However - towards the end of the clip note the fuel gauge! As regards the fuel gauge - one tank has 10 litres in, the other has 20 litres - I believe the tanks are 45 litres each so I should be seeing about 1/4 tank and 1/2 tank respectively, not the values shown on the gauge in the video clip. So I think the tank senders are FUBAR and a request is in for new ones from Tarmot in Poland. Same goes for the tank changeover tap in the floor as mine is frozen solid. Once these are done then the instruments will be 100%. Just waiting for the big order from Poland as it includes new doors, the third warning light for the dash and lot of other bits and pieces. Again hopefully the first time out to an event should be to a Cold War Cars event in April - if I get the paperwork in time.

That will depend on the weather - if we get another warm patch so I can wash the crap off then I might well do. If not - then it will only be the head - but on a 24v you don't get to see much else The head is now painted, together with the rocker cover which was primed first in Hammerite Special Metal Primer, and ready for refitting. I was going to refit the head in the little warm spell we had but a friend popped in to visit who is also into cars so I got his opinion of the state of the pistons. He agreed with my fears - that the damage could lead to hot spots, especially on #3 so I had to order a set of new pistons from Craddocks. In the mean time the bottom end gasket set has arrived together with the cylinder head bolt washers and new lock-nuts for the big ends. Remembered today I forgot to order a new oil filter so I need to sort that out tomorrow.

Must be about time for Joris family to come visit W&P! ! :-) Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Head is now back - and what they forgot to mention was that price was plus the 20% VAT!! Ouch!! But they have done a good job. I left it in the back of the RangeRover as there was no where else to put it, the requirement to change the pistons meaning it cannot go straight back on, and as you can see from the photo's the non-stop rain and general dampness have already taken their toll! So I have permission from the OH (a rare occurrence indeed) to bring it inside to paint and store. If I can find somewhere safe to put it..... So, after clearing a space tomorrow I will clean off the gasket faces and give them a coat of grease or light oil then paint the required areas the normal duck egg blue. Next job - once the bl**dy rain stops - is to drop the sump and remove the pistons so they can be measured and replaced. Might think about changing the bearing shells as well. Got a bad feeling that, once disturbed I will wind up with big end noise rapidly if I refit the existing ones.

Firm rang back this morning - £262.50 inc head gasket set. Paint ordered ready for when it comes back, also the OMD 75 stencil for the rocker. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Dropped the head off at a enginnering shop today - initial estimate is £50 to strip and clean it then what ever the price of new valaves, guides etc are. They reckon 2 days or so to complete the work. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Well - finally got the head off. Hell of a battle getting the head bolts to release being as its not secured :-) First thing noticed was the difference in rockers - they were not removable so far as I can tell and there was a plate bolted on under were the breather cap would be. Once the head was off - and it felt lighter than the other one the extent of the rust damage was evident So I am thinking the best/safest course of action would be to put it into a reconditioners to have new valves fitted and the rust around them machine polished away. But it does look like the head can be used. So now to check the block in the vehicle and lets hope I am lucky and it is just carbon build up. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

This is the scrap engine by the garage - who reckons the head will be salvageable looking at the rust IN the ports??? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Currently up to 6 months with the UAZ and not done yet.....

Only to happy to open the wallet - but all its got are moths :-( Like I said - I 've been out of work 8years during which I footed the bill both for my daughters uni and my own MSc so the reservoirs are now bone dry. I'm an IT specialist (Oracle databases) and at 58 have been told I am now unemployable. But enough of that side of the doom and gloom - this is the photo of the spark plugs with #4 on the left. 1 and 2 look a bit lighter in colour... And this is a close-up of the block between #3 and #4. Looks and feels like carbon build up more than damage - an investigative light scrape with a piece of glass took some of it off. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

When it stops raining again I will be doing just that! Incidentally, that gasket has also started to fail between #1 and#2 - perhaps the reason for the low CT values in these cylinders... Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Can't be static running in this case Richard :-( Is there any way to tell the difference between the two head types?? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Bear in mind its running on unleaded so the old grey nose guide no longer applies - the plugs were a sooty black. Gasket was the right one according to Craddocks....... Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Block face looks - emphasise looks - OK Richard but I will have a closer look tomorrow. It was getting dark time I finished with the head. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Life sucks :-( Took the head off today and the headgasket was a god-awful mess Even worse was the state of the head: Plus there seems to be some minor damage to the rear edge of #3 piston. Good news is there is no discernable movement in the pistons but the state of #3 worries me. I don't want to put it all back for more problems to crop up I have a scrap engine I might be able to use the head from - but its been sat outside since 2006 so its internal condition is debatable. If I can't use it I have a major problem called lack of money Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Thanks Richard - will do. :-) Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

My thoughts exactly Richard. I used the order and torque setting in the book - took it down in 20 Lb/ft steps rather than all in one go. Was that correct? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

OK - re-ran the compression test today with throttle wide open. Results were: Cyl1 - 90 psi Cyl 2 - 80 psi Cyl 3 - 0 psi Cyl 4 - 0 psi So now the head is stripped ready for removal when the daughter gets home tomorrow. No sign of damage externally. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Will do Richard - soon as it gets warm enough again to hold cold steel :-) Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Choke was off but never touched the throttle Richard. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Not quite Mike - had the head gasket blow between #3 and #4 last year - sounded like a blowing exhaust but she still ran OK. Hence in part my confusion now as if it had gone there again I would have expected the same result - loud banging but still driveable! However now it is undriveable with only 2 of the 4 cylinders working. As soon as the weather clears again I wll have the rocker cover off (got to be removed to get the head off anyway) and rotate the engine by hand and watch the valve operation to see if maybe the valves have stuck open. But whatever the issue is I am fairly certain it will need to come off and go in for some remedial work... :cry: :cry: Incidentally - do you have any idea what the normal compression reading should be for a 3 bearing 2,25 lump?? The 70 psi I got on the front two cylinders seems a bit low to me - I was expecting at least around 100 psi....

If memory serves the troop seats in an MJ run down the centre so the troops sit back to back facing outwards. You need an RL to to have the troops facing each other.

Thanks Now the not so good news - the new compression tester arrived today to replace the one that seems to have gone AWOL. Removed all 4 plugs and ran the tests and found the source of the problem: Cyl #1 - 70 psi Cyl #2 - 70 psi Cyl #3 - 0 psi Cyl #4 - 0 psi So it looks like the head has to come off again - bl**dy awful job to do solo but alas no choice. I''m guessing now that its either the valves, the pistons or the head gasket again. And I will be soo annoyed (yet financially pleased) if it is just the head gasket as that was replaced middle of last year.