sirhc

oooh close - my sabre is 04 FD 34

I have 04FD31, and 04FD32 was parked next to it at Withams...

I thought that might be the same one

 

If I was selling the manual and it reached those dizzy heights I'd be pleased as punch

Me too, but I'd still be thinking the high bidder was an idiot!

Don't worry, you can get it for £20 here...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Daimler-Ferret-Scout-Car-MK1-and-2-Precis-/380311833023?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item588c5a09bf

Chris

No ! as the post title says as a roadworthy check to prove any maintenance which would be carried out on it would be of a safe standard and suitable to be used on the road.

Surely you could just take it for an MOT test?

That's what I run mine at.

I think the free magic sponge will be more useful...

Neil,

It sounds like you could use one of these...

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorsport/Pit_Paddock_Accessories/Fuel_Containers_Funnels/Demon_Tweeks_Polarn_Pump/1246/0/15944

Chris

could they not be metal sprayed in a similar way to crankshafts?

They could be, but you'd really need to machine it undersize and then grind back to original size after coating... which would be pretty expensive.

What's the launcher gubbins on the FV432? Swingfire, perhaps?

Yes, it's an FV438.

The next installment!

With the paint dry, we fitted the rear suspension and diff yesterday. The shocks are NOS, along with the brake hoses and new pipes.

With the suspension fitted, we flipped it over (I have found this is quite easy - with an engine crane on the tow hitch, 2 people can lift the front and turn it without too much bother) and put some wheels on.

The front suspension system was painted today, I have used Hammerite satin finish so it hasn't dried that shiny! The ball joints, bearings, seals and brakes are NOS, but everything else was in quite good order.

Once it was dry enough to fit we picked the front up, slid it underneath and bolted it up. I don't have photos of this, as we were a bit busy at the time, but this is how it looks now, with the wheels fitted.

I feel like I am almost on the home stretch now. A bit more body work to do - clean up all the dents etc from flipping it over and standing it on it's side etc - and then I can paint it and start bolting it all back together.

Does anyone have any RT-524 radio bits and pieces they don't need? I need a radio and the cables. I have an NOS antenna base, mount, sponson plate etc.

Chris

Chris, my budget is not limitless, i've just dropped GBP 184 for manuals, any books we get are on my coin unless i get a management buy in!

 

R

You don't have to buy them all at once!

Robin,

Buy the whole set! They are excellent for getting an idea of what the vehicles looked like and did in service.

Chris

Yep. Thats the ones. Where have they come from?

Belgium! (via a few other places)

Time for an update! I stopped working on this project in May to get ready for Beltring, and then we bought 2 Sabres, so not really had a chance to get back on to finishing the rebuild. a couple of months ago I took everything loose to the blasters. It's now all blasted, primed, painted green and wrapped up in storage ready for re-fitting. The replacement battery box floor arrived in December, so the past few weeks have been spent welding, filling, sanding and painting. Finally the underside is ready for the suspension to go back on. There's a bit of work left to do on the top side of the floors, then I can paint the top and put it all back together.

Chris

I think it should be LV6MT1/5330-99-900-7865 - Seal, Plain - Rubber, 1-3/4in id x 2-1/2 in od x 3/8 in thick.

You can put instant gasket between the 2 halves of the flywheel, but the seal will need to be replaced with a new one.

There is no Tamiya CVR(T), there's an AFV Club Scimitar and Scorpion, and a Revell Scorpion.

Bob,

Saladin disc brakes are known for leaking. Andy (who will no doubt be along at some point) changes at least some of the seals each year.

Chris

I want to know why someone who's been researching Foxes in service during the 80's has painted one a colour it wouldn't have been painted in at that time? :???

These are about the best out there...

http://www.tankograd.com/cms/website.php?id=/en/index/publikationen/british_spezial.htm

Chris

Robin,

It's not a hard job, you should be able to get them swapped over in a day. The oil pipes and water hose from the heat exchanger to the bulkhead need to be fitted to the replacement engine before fitting as you can't fit them once it's in. I usually cable tie the oil hose to the engine near the carb to keep it out of the way before fitting, it also helps to have them all lined up in the right place so they don't get trapped between the sump and the hull. The hardest job is getting the bolt in the back corner near the exhaust back in afterwards.

The fuse should be fitted on a bracket near the coil, I think it's a standard fuse, but most of my engines haven't got one fitted.

Do you still need a master switch box?

Chris

Can anyone identify the stowage bin on the rear of the turret, looks like a sensible modification.

 

R

I don't know Robin, more weight up high in a Fox doesn't seem too sensible to me! :nut:

One way to loosen the plugs is to lightly tap the collar round using a screwdriver or drift and a mallet.

That looks ideal...I guess the same scenario at the Gen Panel end

Yes.. that would be why they put it there!

Wayne,

It's a large multi pin plug. Unscrew the collar and it should come off. See photo of alternator below.

Chris