rbrtcrowther

Nice to see tou coupling up nice an safe, You can never have too many brakes. Perhaps with all the grief he gave your brakes he polished up the drums nice and clean for you, what are they like after?

I Think mean machine has them on the front? As they are slightly smaller in diameter than the 1400 r20 bar grips . He said it's fine as the front axle is freewheeling on the road and they don't wind up in the mud cos the can slip. Smaller tyres means ever so slighty lower gearing (nit picking now:cool2:) But being as explorers are blessed with a such huge turn of speed it shoulden't make a diference:) (Mean Machine...Mick Walters?)

They did away with the tractor service tank for some reason? And there is no mension of pushing trailers on later scammels so perhaps the need to push trailers was deemed unessasery and the provision was done away with. Perhaps the need to double head Antars was so small the provision was done away with too.:???

:coffee:Well it would seem the first conteact explorers were able to push a trailer with the brakes coupled so long as shutoff valve no17 is opened permitting normal application using hand or foot controlls. When double heading the hoses are crossed the same as trailer coupling letting the first tractor apply the trailer brakes without loss of air through the second tractor controlls via the change over valve no12 and relay valve no 13 on the second tractor. the brakes on the second tractor will be applyed through the timing valve no 18 and change over valve no15.:sweat:

Very interesting and worthy of further invertigation when my eyes are up to folowing the lines. Will try and compare with both of the scammell systems. Early ones had a shutoff valve under the dash that was only opened when pushing trailers and closed at all other times. Later scammells did away with this valve. I will have to look into it in greater detail as they also did away with an air tank for trailer brakes. There must be some simalarity beetween the air systems.

I've got to do the springs on mine too. Was thinking of using block and tackle atached to rear body crossmembers as all woodwork is removed at the mo.:idea:

Wow don't pictures make things look easy! Jack up, wheel out, pop the new one in, plop it down and off down the pub for lunch!:beer:

I think you can get new tyres from the same man who sells the rocking horse poo. Last time i spoke to michelin they said they were not planning a production run any time soon but that was a couple of years ago. Bet you wouldn't see change from 3 grand for a set mabey even more. there was a website in america and they had tons of them cheap.

Many thanks for clearing things up. Just checked my manual again and it all makes sense now. Acording to scammell when double heading the front vehicle can controll all the the brakes. I wonder why they didn't use this system on the antar with its huge load towing power. No need for brake light watching:sweat: Rob.

I saw ten ton annie at llandudno too. In fact i borrowed your filler cap to check the thread on one i bought at one of the trade stands. Cheers! Did you get the jake brake working?:evil:

:wave:Cheers for the pics. you have the petrol water pump on your engine but i think i wiil be able to plumb a similar arrangement up on my motor (assuming the crankshaft job goes to plan.) Also noticed it's only running one oil filter so your egg n sauce can exit down between the chassis rail. Nice n neat. Mine farts straight out the side and i have a stainless flexi running under the track box. I have done my best to tuck it out it the way more so than it was, Just hope it dosen't get slurped into the front wheel when it comes up on full right hand lock:red:

:wave: Her indoors has just been looking on ebay under scammell and on the second page foun a bloke selling part worn tyres starting at £25 various tred patterns. Any good? I've already got a new set but if your stuck for tyres you never know.:undecided:

:wave: Today i removed the starter motor... A five miniute job that to 2 f**&&*g Hours:argh: Slacken the pinch bolt and withdraw.... My arse! So decided to remove whole thing from bell housing as clamp was already cracked. Great... aluminium starter in aluminium housing for 50 od years with no engine side panels= slightly stuck. Starter has now been beaten into submision with wedges chisels and leavers ect.:angry It would never have come off with the engine in the truck, no way..not a chance. Also removed compresor and front pully at which point the front crankshaft oil seal fell out.:???(that explains the oil leak then):whistle:.Hey ho such is life!

Cheers interesting reading.:coffee:

Hi I thought there was a scammell explorer fixes and work arounds thread somewhere or am i just confused:???

Go steady lifting that lot back into your truck! I would make sure someone else is about just incase:sweat:Don't fancy that lot dropping on me.

Lets not rule out the possability that my clutch has heen modifyed. It looks like there is a bronze bush between tube and bearing outer. Also we have only seen two clutches and could really do with seeing another one:undecided: ther must be someone who has a clutch out there we can look at.:-\ Also if you can take the inspection covers off the bell housing and get someone to press the clutch pedal while you shine a torch and look at the thrust bearing. Make sure it dosen't shimmy or flap about when depressed (or released or any other position for that matter) Try at various throttle settings too. Make sure it's square to the cover plate. If it all looks ok I shoulden't worry it may have been that way for years! Was the bearing baggy when you took the clutch out? or have the clutch people made an arse of it.:??? Let me know how you get on. And if there is a problem don't panic it's only time effort. Sleeve the bearing or fit a new tube. true it up on a lathe. Post a message on the explorer thread someone must have a clutch cover somewhere!

So have we figured out why younguns thrust bearing is baggy?:???

The last pic shows the tube that the thrust bearing sits on. The output shaft sits in the spigot bearing one end and is supported with the bell housing bearing the other. So no contact between shaft and tube no lube needed. The tube is part of the clutch cover so spinns all the time, the fingers of the clutch cover also spin. so should only touch the bearing face in the same 4 places. I have'nt removed the thrust bearing (don't think i will bother as it works fine). I will also go and consult the explorer bible now.:readbook:

Hi Have been and took some pictures so here they are. If you could put your pictures up again and we can play spot the difference.

Manby motorplex nr Grimsby had a few stalwarts but don't know what mark they were they may have loads of bits but it was a while ago i was there.

Still I don't fancy trying to stop a scammell with an un braked millitant wanting to play on the back!:eek:

Do you need a full arctic licence to tow a full load with a 1950 explorer?:??? and do you have to couple the air lines to dead vehicle by law? If it breaks away from the tow vehicle this would apply the brakes. All modern goods vehicles have couplings on the front tractor unit so the wreaker can couple up to the brake system. I know i would'nt think about towing another lorry without it's brakes coupled possibility of jacknife trama is too great. even at slow speeds:eek:

Cheers for the pics. The plumbing on mine is shocking with pipes blanked off and random household fittings so don't be shy with the camera every picture can help someone. I have put some pics of my clutch on my blog but none of the thrust bearing. i will try to get some up soon. When i saw the thrust bearing on the tube i thought it was siezed, it was tight. when i slackened the pressure plate (without using the packing shims) the bearing slid down the tube and scraped a load of goo as it went. the military may have changed the design due to problems. It says in the book not to refit main bearing dowls in the engine, so thigs get modifyed all the time If it works fine and makes no nasty noises i shouldent worry. You only press it to start and stop. I'll have a goo look tomorrow and get some pics.

So if someone is driving a truck on a car licence and offers to tow his mate home or go and pick up his next restoration project as soon as he hooks up his lorry is loaded. So he can't drive on a car licence. So if you own a wreaker you can't tow another vehicle cos you have loaded the truck therfore can't drive on car licence. You can't drive with a rigid licence cos it is articulated now so you need a full HGV......Unless it's a showmans living van which you can tow on a car licence.:banghead: I think i'll go get a full HGV its far more simple.:sweat: