rbrtcrowther

There's more!

It moves!!! Can't remember how to drive it but it moves!!!

Hello Chaps. Finally managed to get Big Jenny on the move Today if only a few yards down the road to the gate into the field!!:yay: after much mushing and grinding of gears! (forgot how to do it) i got as far a 5th but had to stop due to lack of road and ear defenders ( number 6 whines like F*&*) Also pulled the winch cable out and re timed the serving gear. However when reversing down the track i noticed there was no oil pressure in the gearbox.(My Scammell has a thing about oil pressure:-D) oil pressure is ok in newtral and all forward gears but the light comes on on reverse. So i have a valve problem in the pump. Is it worth pulling the pump out an farting about with the valves or should i leave it alone? for the moment i just reverse for a while then stop in neutral and let the oil pressure build then reverse some more. Advice please. Rob.

Hate to say it but it sounds like you may be pressuring the cooling system somewhere:cry:. How long before it gets hot? Do the radiator pipes pump up hard very quickley when you start from cold? Keep us posted. Rob.

Was the bottom hose hot too? Could be lack of draft from cooling fan. Poor water pump. Stuck thermostat. Clogged rad . Is the head gasket ok? no bubbels to be seen in the header tank when its running i hope!! I know of a scammell explorer with a leyland 680 in and the fan is nowhere near the rad. he tows a 30 odd foot living van. He says it getsd warm on the big hills but has never had to stop and cool off. Scammel is called jumbo. It's a big radiator with a 30mph wind blowing through it would of thought the only time it would get hot would be off road . Hope you get it sorted. Good luck.

All is well so far but running in the drive os one thing, flat out down the road is another:shake:. sure it will be ok:sweat:

:banana::banana::dancinggirls::dancinggirls::dancinggirls::yay::yay::yay::yay::yay::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::thanx: By the way i am quite chuffed :yay:

Right.... :morning: Fitted the filters and filled up the sump sunday morning. Plonked the batterys on and got Little Jenny to spin it over on the starter with the decompressor gear liffted. Oil was seen to be pumping into the filter housings. Filter housing were then filled with oil and the tops fitted. Now i decided to spin the engine over (still decompressed) to prime the oil system as the crankshaft holds a large amount of oil. After 20 seconds of cranking nothing on the gauge. Hmmmm. Another 20 second crank still diddely squat. Further cranking and then the oil pressure needel lifted. The batterys were now fluffed and the engine was bearly turning over and on the last few desperate revolutions the needel rose 40......45.....50......55.....60.......60something..... the oil gauge had ran out of numbers!!:yay: Not bad considering it only musterd a pathetic 23psi with the old crank and bearings and that was at full throttel!!!! The batterys were put on charge and i took the landy off up a mountain for a spot of off road fun. Sunday afternoon saw the batterys back on and more desperate churning in an attemp to bleed the bloody diesel pump. A task made more complicated as the hand primer was stuck and upon dismanteling it i found there are no inners in it..... Doh!!:iamsmiling: Yet more churning with the decompressor gear in and the injector pipes loose and the batterys died again. but we now had diesel in all the right places.:yay: I decided to give her a go. ....With the last amps in the batterys i wound her up on the starter then threw the decompressor and with a nice flummmphh of she went... no smoke no leaks no knocking. :sweat:60 odd psi on the clock. runs about 55psi hot at idle. Will now give her a few gentle runs before trying to move her and keep an eye on the gauge. Sounds luvery 10 1/2 liters farting through a 4 1/2" straight through egg n sauce....Nice...:whistle:

Got the same problem on mine (meadows diesel ) was thinking of fitting the petrol water pump but had issues with pulleys and compressor drives so will make a cowel to meet the fan.

Hi there got my seals on friday:yay: have been out workiong on Scammell, BBQing and drinking beer so not been on tinternet for a while. Seals look great but am still waiting for the complementery hub puller and spanner to turn up I assume you posted them seperately?!!:-D Many thanks Rob.

Pretty sure the equivilents are straight 140 and straight 90 think i paid abouit £40odd for each 25 liters drum. Seems we have gone full circul.(for some reason i can't seem to spell circle any more!):n00b:

Well when i refitted the engine i rechecked the alignment with a straight edge. One muff coupling was removed so i put a straight edge accross the faces of the square drives of the engine flange and the center bit of the muff coupling. there is only about a half inch between the two members. I was just rechecking the alignment as its only run about 1 hour since i changed the engine mounts. I too would consider a shaft conversion but have a solid clutch plate fitted and wonder about shock loading the gearbox or the splines ratteling on tickover. If you fit a big enough shaft the peak loads created by the engine should not be a problem.

90 is thick 140 is really thick!!!

So are the walking beams and diff all the rear axle. One compleat unit? The same type of oil in both?:???:???

Remove the metalastic couplings. I then made up a set of trammells (pointer on a long rod) fix these to the gearbox flange. one pointer touches the face of the engine flange the other touches edge of the clutch brake. by rotating the gearbox flange the trammells run round the engine flange. I can get a picture from the manual if you want but it in the garage at the mo.

I was going to put 140 in the walking beams and rear diff as thats whats in them now and 90 in the front diff and gearboxes. Further advice please chaps.:readbook:

I know it's more work but when you get your new engine mounts fitted it might be worth checking the engine and gearbox alignment. This will avoid metalastic distress and heartache at a later date. There are shims between the chassis and rear engine cradle, washers between the front crossmember and engine mount legs and some more shims where the lateral movement arms fix to the chassis to square it up. To be fair it should be spot on as the mounts are the same spec as the origanals. It's up to you. My mounts had failed compleatly and the metalastic couplings were ripped to bits. when i fitted the new mounts i found the engine was 1 1/4" lower than the gear box and also tilted down. Absoloute pain in the arse to line up:shake:

Hopefully running before you. I'm ready to hit the button.... just waiting for some new oil filters to turn up. Hope it works if not leyland here we come. If the engine is ok all thats left to do is the electrics,brakes, hub oil seals, winch, wheels and tyres. timber on the back, rear mud gaurds.......remove and strip the rear springs, paint the rear axle, wiper motors, front wings,and fit some diesel filters...oh need to free off the walking beams too. one day i'll get there!!:help:

How are you getting on? Let me guess.... it's running so well your too busy driving it to tell us.:drive:

The pace you work at is Bonkers!! I've had my Explorer 3 years and it still won't see the road this year.:shocked:

Gave him a ring and he had some in will have to send him a cheque as he isthe only buisness in the brittish isles without a switch machine. £79.00 for the 2 deliverd just hope the bloomin engine works!! :iloveyou::yay::yay::thanx: Rob.

Will give them a ring tomorrow.:bow:

Well i have measured the filters. They are...10 1/2" or 270mm tall (but they are a bit squashed by the sealing plates so it think they should be 11" tall) 4" in diameter or 100mm and the inside is 2" or 50mm there is a removable spring inside them to stop the filter crushing with the oil pressure. I have found some part numbers on the filter casings / Tecalemit oil filter no. EA 2042. Element no. FG 2351 / 101 I have has no joy searching the internet as yet. i may have to resort to steam cleaning them at work!

Will measure filters tomorrow. They are blooming tall possbly 12"

Well another good day on the scammell and the whole lot is connected up and ready to run. All I need to do is add some oil and prime the filters ect and then motor it over on the starter to fill the crank up. Then we hope for the best:sweat:Keep you posted.