64EK26

On 06/12/2017 at 7:32 PM, armoured_smiler said:

Hi,

 

Does anyone know who is running this in 2018, since Military world ltd has been disolved in Aug 2016?

Same person as in 201.6,when he organisted the one at Beltring., I understand that he was "out of circulation" last year. The one he organised at Beltring in 2016 was very enjoyable.

I got my form today...

Might go there Fri,Sat,Sun and then decamp to W&P on Monday

Hi

Have you tried The National Firefighting & Recsue Mueum at Weedon http://fireworldmuseum.co.uk/

Also see https://oakparkrunner.wordpress.com/auxiliary-fire-service-1948-to-1968/

has nice photo of GLE980

Cheers

Richard

(PS I used to own a WW2  Beresford Stork Fire Pump and Trailer)

Nice parts, You will soon be ready rebuild....

I have just started putting the bottom end on mine together.  I used graphogen on the mains and big ends so that they will be will lubricatedwhen she starts up for the first time (hopefully early next year)

The vandervell bearings, are these for the big ends or main ? Also could you post the bearing set number, I know the glacier ones but not the vandervell ones

Thanks

Richard

Hi Keith

Thanks for sharing your photos on the forum.

The one on the beach at Dunkirk is most interesting as it shows an MW that has just been captured and retains its original Z number.  The photo below also shows traces of the original Z number

The book you publish is great and a must for any MW owners

Cheers

Richard

Some photos for you...

MW...

OX...

OY...

Hi

Thanks for the photo and welcome to the forum

MWD15162 would signify it is a Bedford MW GS, being this early it would have been an aeroscreen. Your chassis number is most likely from Contract T8957.

MW’s Ox’s and OY’s have different chassis lengths

The following measurements (rounded to the nearest inch) are from the centre of the front spring hanger to the rear of the chassis

MW  - 156”

OX  - 176”

OY – 226”

On all models the distace from the centre of the front spring hanger is appx 7"

Judging by the length of your vehicle it is probably an MW with a later cab fitted

Where are you located ?

Hope this helps

Started on the Engine rebuild...

Crank shaft in, silky smooth, I had to use different thrust washers to reduce the end float back into the 0.002 - 0.008 range.

Couldn't find my piston ring compressors today, Pistons in next time I am up at the shed

As noted above, the brake pipe routing at the front was incorrect, this has now been changed, and the recently acquired engine pans fit nicely.  Brake pipe secured using bored out land rover hose clips.

Also slowly sorting out waht I need for the cab

Nice looking vehicle, sad that you have to let it go.

By the way the one on Milweb was very cheap and whoever got that got a bargain

11 minutes ago, andy1960 said:

Thanks for the info on brakelines.Engine work looks good!...who did this for you please? Andy B

No problem, Block done by Banda Engineering in Portsmouth (down by the Dockyard) see http://www.bandaengineering.net/

Nigel is the chap to speak to, if you do get some work done there, just let him know it was Richard (Bedford 28HP engine) that put you in touch. This is the first time I have used them, the work seems to be of a high standard and the workshop although small is well equiped.

I plan to get my head skimmed and valves reseated in the next few weeks.

Engine block, crank shaft and cam shaft back from machinists cost was £228 (inc VAT) which I though was quite reasonable

Crank and Camshaft pollished up very nicely.  The block bored to +.020 (for NOS W grade pistons) and skimmed. Finished the clean up of the crank case ready for painting with  satin black (high temperature engine paint)

Hi

Firstly, thanks "Matchfuze" I have seen that thread, currently concentrating on getting a running vehicle (I has to be ready for Normandy 2019)

Andy

Brake pipe off eBay: Sealey Brake Pipe Seamless Tube Cupro-Nickel 22 Gauge 5/16" x 25ft BS EN 12449

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Brake-Pipe-Seamless-Tube-Cupro-Nickel-22-Gauge-5-16-x-25ft-BS-EN-12449/142137769570?epid=1169089782&hash=item2118123e62:g:2dwAAOSw42JZFPhV

I used Cupro Nickel as it doesn't work harden as quickly as copper so it is easier to reform bends (for bends use a small pipe bending tool)

The female brake pipe nuts;   8104 FEMALE BRAKE PIPE NUTS UNF 1/2" x 20TPI FOR 5/16" 8M (they are much better than the photo shows

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8104-FEMALE-BRAKE-PIPE-NUTS-UNF-1-2-x-20TPI-FOR-5-16-8MM-FUEL-BRAKE-PIPE-x-10/360573887967?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Pipe ends flared with Sykes-Pickavent Brake pipe flarer (trying to flare these with a cheap flaring tool is a non starter)

Banjo's on rear were reused (but with new copper washers)

New 1/2" unf bleed screws for rear cylinders from PastParts

Just found out the routing at the front is not quite correct, so will re-do this

Hope this helps

Hi

PM sent re towing loop ( they were missing from mine which is currently under restoration)

Cheers

Richard

I managed to get a 4 way connector from Chris Morter, now fitted and all brakes now working

I hope I have the piping at the front correct and that it won't interfere with anything

For the bearing on the brake pedal, I used two small needle rollers instead of the 21 (1/8" diameter) roll pins as oly 20 were fitted in mine and most of these had seen better days.

Handbrake next on list.

I have also replaced the bearing on the end of the steering colum, and got some new ball bearings for the bearing at the top of the steering column. I should get this finished next week. I will have to 'bite the bullet' soon and get some tyres. I think I will end up using Petlas, however these are a bit difficult to fit on British rims and may require shaving.

Hi Wally

What is Park Serial Number shown on the sale catalogue  ?

and do any of the later sale catalogues give chassis numbers ?

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Thanks for the photo, and thoughts on brake lights....

There should be a 4 way, hydraulic union attached to the offside of a cross member.  I don't have this, neither can I find one (have searched but all I come up with is 3/8 UNF not 1/2 UNF).  Will try Chris Morter and Norman Aish in the morning

I do have a spare three way connector that is the same as the rear one, I could use this  but would prefer to use a 4 way and hydrauilc switch .  If I cannot get a 4 way one I will have to go down the mechanical route (Richard F , what is the lucas part number for the switch you use ?)

Had a look at the steering column today ....

All apart as the action wasn't smooth, felt like failed bearings, the one in the top of the column needs replacing as well as the one at the bottom of the box.  Someone in the past tried to change the bearing on this !!!!

The race was also mangled, looks like someone put the bearing on with a club hammer.  Hopefully I shoul be able to get replacement bearings, might have a bit of difficulty remoing the old one

Hi

Could someone plese post a few photos of the routing of the front brake pipes from the master cylinder.  When I got mine, all these have been removed. I have done the rear ones (hopefully routed correctly, see my restoration blog http://hmvf.co.uk/topic/36001-bedford-mwc-restoration/?page=5

Thanks in advance

Richard

Started on the brakes, still unsure of the routing of the pipes on the front, a photo of this would be good

I am considering re-manufacturing the pumps and filters, for this I would need to borrow a filter and a pump. The top cap of the filter is brass and would have to be cast; the casting is a bit tricky as there are internal waterways in the topcap. The pump (I believe) is also brass, the machining of this and the internal mechanism could prove a bit difficult. I may be luck and find the pumps and filters.

Thanks

Might be useful to have a how to do section

Hi

Just a quick update, rearranged things in the 'shed' to gain better access

sorting out brakes, when I got the vehicle there were no brake pipes present, I think I know where the back ones go, but not sure where the front ones go. Would be useful to have a couple of photos of pipe connections to the master cylinder and where the two front barkae pipes joun and how they get to the master cylinder.

Engine also fully stripped down, colleced a set of piston at Dallas Digout today, as well as finding a nice rear engine drain tap and other odds and sods

Hi

Just tried to post

Text

<Photo>

Text

Doesn't seem to want to play ball, how do you do this on the new forum ?

Also some pages on my restoration bog have photos interspersed between text and other have all the photos at the end of the post with a "IMAGE text string" where the photo should be.

Thanks

Richard

Hi

They do turn up in the UK, one was on eBay for £100 a couple of weeks ago, but didn't sell, this also didn't have any ancillaries.

I am after pumps and filters for my MWC restoration

The tank in the pictures was also used on early Bedford MWC's

Just seen this on Milweb, not mine I hasten to add

http://www.milweb.net/classifieds.php?type=14

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Have you tried  http://www.northwestclassic.co.uk

They stock a loads of Lockheed seals

Cheers

Richard

I picked this up at the week end, a nice 1944 dated jack to go with my Bedford MWC

Is there another part that fits on the extension piece, and what exactly is the extension piece for as it does not have a flat surface on it, only a square hole

Cheers

Richard