64EK26

Hi

They are 10 stud, will try to measure them over the weekend. Measuring offset and width may be a bit more trick, the tyres used are Michelin 365/85R20 XZL

Cheers

Richard

All now sorted thanks to Wally Duggan

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Have you tried Clive Elliot (fv1609) on the forum, he is the fountain of all knowledge on Humber Pigs

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Does anyone have a Saxon APC manual for sale, before I go and buy one off the internet

Preferably one that covers the Bedford Engine version

Thanks

Richard

More progress....

New mudguards arrived

Started making the 'special' tops

this one is for the spare wheel support

and steps

Next on list is making the supporting brackets out of 6mm thick angle and bar

Still looking for pumps and filters

21 hours ago, David Herbert said:

Mine was the same as Richard's.

David

David, I don't have one, they were some photos that were sent to me so I knew what I am looking for. So if Jeremey is making some reproductions I will probably have one

Cheers

Richard

Hi Jeremey

Good to see you at Newbury today .... (I didn't see this when I looked around)

I think that there were various types, I was aware of the "fibre" type and the metal type. The only one I have photos os is this (I think it may be fibre)

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Glad you got them off OK

Cheers

Richard

Thanks Wally

Keep up the good work, it is very much appreciated and any news on B131  in the future would be good

Cheers

Richard

Thanks Wally

You must have been looking hard

Do you know where B131 was ?

Cheers

Richard

Thanks, I missed that thread

Hi

I have seen several WW2 vehicles with rebuild plates on them that read

“Ministry of Supply T.T.3(BR)

This vehicle was vehicle was rebuilt to class I on dd/mm/yy

By Army Auxiliary Workshop

No. Bnnn”

Come across workshop No. B131.  B42

Is there a list of these workshops anywhere ?

And what does the T.T.3(BR) signify ?

Cheers

Richard

Hi – I think I have misled you a bit…

Torque multipliers can be used for both undoing and doing up nuts. I have a cheap torque multiplier which has a high gearing ratio (1:78) so it fairly easy to over tighten, i.e. 1Nm in and 78Nm is applied (hence my comment earlier).  They are relatively compact so for changing wheels in the field they are fine, as you don’t need to have an ‘industrial’ size torque wench or breaker bar. Torque multipliers are available with different gear ratios, from 1:3 upwards and decent ones are very expensive.

When I got my MW for restoration, I could not remove the nearside wheel nuts, even when using a 3/4" drive and bouncing up and down on a 6 foot bit of scaffolding. An industrial electric impact hammer also had no effect; the last resort was a cheap torque multiplier which did the trick. Industrial electric impact hammers are expensive and the air driven ones need to be of high quality and use a lot of air.

I agree with andym, that it is best to ‘break’ the lock first by ‘shocking’ it, you may still need to apply a considerable torque to fully undo the nut if it is very rusty.

Not sure where you live; and if the vehicle is moveable (by the way vehicle are you working on), you may be better off taking it to your local garage/tyre fitters and let them slacken them for you using and industrial air impact gun. You could also try a mobile tyre fitters. I did this, before I got my ‘gadgets’  when trying to get  some old land rover spilt rims apart, they had rusted solid.

Cheers

Richard

Hi

For really stuck wheel nuts etc  I use a 3/4" drive torque multiplier, no more standing and jumping up an down on a scaffold bar.  Do not use a torque muliplier for tightening them up as the torques they can apply are enormous and can shear the wheel studs.

As noted above left hand threads normally have an L stamped on the nuts

Also I have found that slightly tightening a nut before undoing it often helps to get them freed more easily

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Trying to sort out a modern regulator to replace the innards of a CAV 75BT-19X for my Bedford MW

Has anyone used a Lucas RB108 mounted in the old regulator box and is this the correct way to wire it up ?

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Don't think they are a Bedford MW,  the MW ones have three lift the dot fittings down leading(front) edge.

I looked at these as I am after a pair for my MW

Cheers

Richard

Still plodding along

Tank hinges fitted

More trial fitting of panels etc.

Wiring loom nearly sorted

Near side wing repaired, along with a load of "just jobs". The "just jobs" are the ones that seem to take for ever to do but need to be done.

Now I know that all the bits basically fit, the are all coming off to be painted.

The next big thing to trial fit is the water tank, when this is done, I can trial fit the mudguards (hopefully these arrive in the next few weeks).

My target was to get the truck ready for Normandy this year, unfortunately this won't happen, I have got too much to do and I am not going to rush it.

Will keep you posted

Cheers

Richard

Hi There are a couple of good videos of Austin Champs wading

I think that these are at the same facility

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUXkbT_UpsA

and a a later one

Cheers

Richard

Hi Danny

Looking really good - keep up the good work

I like the battery cable protection, will be doing he same on mine

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Being a pipe thread, probably 1/4 " NPT

Cheers Richard

3 hours ago, Africa Shell said:

Baz and Richard, 

 

Thanks for the information, however im a little confused, how do you know that it came from contract V3964?

as the Z number ive got does not fall within those data ranges.   

Your chassis number falls within a range that were produced under contract V3964. If you get a copy of the keycard from the RLC, museu, this should confirm this.

The Z number range Z16000000 to Z1699999 were allocated during the war to trucks that had been re-built. So you vehicle was first rebuilt during the war, probably using the original chassis, but other parts from new/salvaged vehicles. It was the re-built again in 1953 and allocated a post war serial number 22RA28.

Some photos of your vehilce would be good

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Vehicle is from contract V3964 (for 6355 vehicles), this was for various types of MW's, but mainly MWD's.

Data from contract card

Z4427893 - Z4427992 type A/T (100 vehicles)

Z4427993 - Z4428426 type MWC (434 vehicles)

Z4428427 - Z4434247 type MWD (5821 vehicles)

The data on the contract card disagrees with that of the Chillwell census

the Z number you have is a war time rebuild number,

Hi

Does anyone have a spare Bedford 28HP Dynamo Lucas D45 they wish to sell, like the one in the photo

Thanks

Richard

Were they actually all rubber as rubber was in short supply in WW2?

I thought that inflatable rubber tubes were used to support a canvas type structure but I may be totally wrong

Cheers

Richard

Looks a good project, but there is a lot of work and not for the faint hearted. Might be tempted in the price was lower

This is in a yard just down the road from me, let me know if you are seriously thinking about buying it and I should be able to wander down and take a load more photos for you

Cheers

Richard