64EK26
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Posts posted by 64EK26
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Hi
landrover nick sent me a link to this :thumbsup::thanx:
https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/F05257/
which is also available on youtube
Take a look, it shows how to use the pumps and filters etc on an MWC (just got to crack on and find the pumps and filters)
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Hi
Thanks for all the advice
We have finally got it working...
The pump has been on and off many times and the rebuild was checked, still not sure what we have done differently. I still think that an electric pump is the way to go, just got to persuade the others.
Cheers
Richard
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Attacked the bulkhead today....
Chopped out most of the rotten bits...
The most difficult bit to make will be the wheel arch ...
As I am missing most of the floor panels, I will need to get some extended 'I' section as shown below (any Ideas where I can get some ?
Need to chop out a few bits from the other side befor it goes to the gritblasters (no doubt I will find a few more holes to patch)
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Hi
The power coat is BS381C 298 Olive Drab , suppled by Akzo Nobel (via Cromadex)
The gritblasters and powder coaters I used was A1 gritblasting in Southampton.
The interpretation of exactly what colour Olive drab is open to a bit of discussion (see http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article/olive-drab/4536/ ), the spray paint I am using is a bit lighter, so I will probabably go for a colour match with the chassis as I quite like the colour
Cheers
Richard
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Hi
Thanks for the input
Will look into Facebook...
Andy...
I had a quick look at your restoration post, I think it said that your Z number was 1642366 (is this on a rebuild plate ?) , if so it is chassis 53501 , contract S1466, post war reg 82YP73. S1466 was a contract for 1000 MWD’s placed on2.11.42 with deliveries commencing in 1943. The original Z number range would have been 5254362 to 5255361.
The next closest I have found to mine is chassis 53560 , which is an MWR on contract S3053
56356 was a MWD on contract S3512, as mine is a MWC it is probably on contract S3054 (MWC contract).
I think that at least three contracts were running at the same time S3053, S3054 and S3512
Cheers
Richard
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Hi Clive
Here is a photo of mine
Chassis number 56358
definitely not 58358 as as this was a MWD under contract number S3512
Part of this exercise is to determine what the 0 - 9 stamping look like (so I can confirm that it is a 3), was there specific size stamp that have to be used, just like Z number markings.
Also might be able to assist MW owners as I am buliding up a database of chassis number/contract/War time reg/Postwar reg.
Cheers
Richard
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Hi
I have been doing a fair amount of research on Bedford MW chassis numbers, I would be grateful if MW owners could post photos of their chassis numbers in this thread, also photos of post war rebuild plates
Thanks
Richard
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Let the rebuild commence (well sort of)
Chassis back from grit blasters and power coated (colour a bit darker than I expected). Also loads of small bits blasted and etch primed.
Rear Springs now fitted
Rear Axle loosely fitted, just realised the spacer between the spring and the axle shouldn't be there. This spacer is used with earlier springs, like othe ones I have but top leaf broken and others very badly worn. The 25 leaf spring came in at No.62898. I got these at a very reasonable price (much less than having new leaves made) so these will do at the moment.
I have a little work to do on the rear brakes, I have re-lined cylinders, but the shafts of the pistons are a bit worn, so I will re-make these in stainless steel.
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Thanks for the photos Tom
Spent the whole day cleaning bits...
Still looking for the air filter elbows, straight pipe and mounting bracket.
Does the air filter assembly (LHS in photo) come apart ? or is it jut the case you clean it out with petrol?
Tomorrow, I will be getting the chassis ready to go to the grit blasters:-)
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Hi
Thanks for all the inputs, I will let you know what I use and how good it is
Cheers
Richard
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Hi
Can anyone reccomend a good etch primer for tin plate (For fuel tanks etc), preferably single pack if there is such a thing
Cheers
Richard
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I believe that the rear springs are the uprated ones fitted post war when the MWs were uprated to 1 ton. The war time ones have fewer but thicker leaves.
David
The 1941 parts manual quotes 13 leaves for an MWC, I don't have a later parts manual. The springs I have bought are in superb condition and are the same as Thomas's ones see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?15406-Bedford-MWC-66144-water-tank/page3
The set that came with the vehicle are 13 leaf and probably orginal, however one of the main leaves where the chackles fit is broken and all the other leaves are badlly worn. I had considered getting a set made, but the ones I picked up yesterday were a very reasonable price and far less than getting a replacement set made.
The spings came apart easily and the leaves I have looked at so fare are very clean an show no signs of wear, I was surprised that the top two leaves are inverted.
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Just interested in your new PTO control ,will this new control lever fit under the cover plate in cab floor ?
As Simon says it passed through the cab floor, see attached photo from Tomas's restoration (look at top Right Hand Corner)
also on the side of the instrument panel, there is a brass plate (see below), Not sure what the 1-10 relates to.
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Hi Tom
Chassis Number MWR61420 makes it (July-Aug) 1944
1944 Production : Chassis Numbers 55886 - 64484
Source of Information Page 44 of Kaleidoscope of Bedford and Vauxhall Military Vehicles by Bart H. Vanderveen (published 1982)
Cheers Richard
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Hi
Thanks for the info on the taps, at leaset I know where to get new corks
Busy day at the shed, Land Rover all ready for MOT, and more work on the engine block
I think have worked out what all the tapped holes are
except for the one near the bell housing, this was full of crud, still trying to get it all out, is this another water drain point ?
Cheers
Richard
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Hi
Bit confused about flame arrestor for my 1944 MWC ....
The flame arrestor in the parts manual appears to be removeable, but the pictures I have see, show them soldered to the pipe that goes to the elbow of the Air Intake to the carburrettor, as pictured below
Were these a later replacement for the 'removeable' ones?
However on my engine (which ia a factory refurbished engine, date unknown) has an air filter that just sits on to of the carb. The breater on the side of the engine just points downwards
Any ideas when this mod was done ?
Also, I intend to put the correct oil/air bath filter in, I am still looking for the following bits as per photo
Also now looking for the correct flame arrestor mounting plate (yet more bits to look out for)
Cheers
Richard
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Hi
Back from W&P where I managed to find a few bits
a) Master Clyinder which had beed re-sleeved and fully overhauled
b) Two reear cylinder caseings that had been re-sleeved
c) Set of flexible hoses
d) OX fuel sender
e) inners of the oil/air bath filter (still looking for the mounting bracket, elbow and rest of piping to the carb
also had a good look over an MW and took photos and measurements of cab wood work (thanks to Richard, another MW owner)
How long are the sender tubes on am MW? obviously the OX ones are longer as the tank is deeper, what I am after are the dimensions below
also where can you get the cork washers for the tap, and how are they fitted ? (see photo below)
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Hi Tom
What you have is an 80W Lightweight Charging set
If you google that you will find the manual for it.
They were used by airborne troops in WW2 and were manufactured by
various companies (I have a couple made by Stuart Turner)
They were also used by the British Army up until the 1980's. Nice little
engines but a bit noisy and prone to the magneto failing.
Cheers Richard
Bedford MWC restoration
in Blogs of MV restorations
Posted
Most of the work done on the drums
On the rear drums, I just had to replace one bearing and the oil seals. It took some time to get the outer bearing out as the only way to tap it out is to remove the inner bearing, then remove all the studs so you can gain access to the outer bearing, I made up a few semi-circular drifts to tap (actually al lot of BFI) to get the cone out). Luckily my local bearing supplier had an original SKEF NOS one in stock at a sensible price
One of the front hubs ideally needs its bearings changed, but I won't do this until I have found replacement ones at a sensible price. Both fronts are awaiting new oil seals befor they are re-assembles and packed with greae.