64EK26

Hi Danny

I have a couple of photos from Thomas Higgins (MWC restoation, same year as yours), these show holes in the rear of the "U" channel.

also one for the bin support bracket

On my MWC, I don't have the two lage "L" brackets on the back that bolt to the GS body, I do have a one rear upright that is to the rear of the bin, not sure what this attached to

Hope these help

Making slow progress...

Doors now skinned

Back to working in the engine tommorrow

Hi Tom

Looking good, have you managed to find a 300W BSA charger to fit in the generator box ?

Also a photo of the plate that was attached to the chassis under the chassis serial number would be good

Also thanks for ongoing help with my MWC restoration

See you in Normandy 2019 ?

Cheers

Richard

I am after one of these

Thanks in advance

Richard

Peter - thanks for your help

I have managed to find another one, which I have repaired as the spindle had been cut short

Cheers

Richard

More work o the cab...

and door furniture made

now have two door handles, thank to Peter (peter75) , one needed a bit of work to extend the shaft as this was cut short at some time (could really do with another decent one at the handle is rather scruffy

Finally got round to welding on the rear chassis extension pieces that had been chooped off in the past.

Just need to chop them to the correct length and work out where the holes need to be drilled

Also, soes anyone have a pair of rear rope eyes that bolt onto the underside of these extension pieces ?

Hi

As noted above, a rotary transformer has a very large start up current , typically 20A, most commercial bench power supplies won't be able to handle this, (in my oppinion) the best way is to run it off batteries. If you go for a Mains PSU, ensure that it is a linear PSU (not switched mode) and use anti surge fuses. When the rotary transformer has started up, the current draw drops dramtically, doen to typically 2 Amps.

Cheers

Richard

Hi Clive

As you said very good show, good WW1 demonstration

Did you work out which way North West was 😉

Cheers Richard

Thought I had better post what I have been doing...

Filter bracket band made

Doors partially re-skinned

Started on window frames

trial fitted

window rubbers found,

these fit nicely into the frame to take 6.4mm laminated glass. The strip fits in the groove at the bottom of the frame.

Thanks Guys

Hopefully Peter can find them....

Started skinning the doors today so would be good to fit them

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Looking for a pair of door handles for my Bedford MWC, like the ones in the photos

Cheers

Richard

On 7/26/2017 at 8:48 PM, Higgins kpt. said:

Hi Tom

 

Been looking at the data I have.

For your MWR , chassis number 61420

Contract S3053, best estimate of original Z number is Z5253868

ContractS3053 was for 2000 vehicles,  Z number range Z5252268 to Z5254267, which makes yours the 1600^th vehicle in this contract. Which make your delivery date early July 1944. By the way the original cost was £320 16shillings and 2 pence, the conversion from a GS to an MWR cost £56

Did this have a re-build plate ?, If so what was it's post war reg ?

Cheers

Richard

Hi

I have a spare one (canadian pattern) + slightly worn petlas 900x16 + flap protector, are you going to the Overlord show ?

Cheers

Richard

Hi Jeremy

Interested to know the type of tube bender you borrowed as most of the modern ones are metric, and are designed to do smaller radii. I assume the tube is 1" 10swg, the normal  linternal  bend raduis used for this would be 4" (like that used on the cab canvas). I still  have to make up the hops for mine, fortunately I have access to some real heavy duty pipe benders.

Cheers

Richard

John/Wally

Thanks for the advice, I will be going for laminated glass. I think the thickness I can easily get is 6.4mm. Just got to make the frames for the glass, will start these this weekend

Cheers

Richard

Hi

I have started looking at replacement window glass for my Bedford MWC.

What sort of glass shoud I use ? Toughened or laminated ?

Is there any legal requirement for replacent glass windscreens ? eg. thickness (I am intending to use 6mm glass)

Thanks

Richard

Hi Tom

Had a look at some of the photos you kindly sent me, there was  a spring attached.

Did you contact Guy Labbe (guy66 on the forum) as I think he has a QL with the correct draw strings ?

Cheers

Richard

Hi Simon

Just had a very close look at the nail holes. They do have a small countersunk section, the hole size is 18swg (1.2mm). I definitely took out flat head round nails. The small countersunk is presumably to allow the nail head to be less raised.  At one time you could by “hidden head” nails, these had a small countersink on them.  The only ones I can find at the  moment are much too big a diameter or small copper ones used for boat building.

Hi Simon

These photos should help

Preety sure they are 1" nails and round head No.8 slotted countersunk screws

Don't know why the photos are inverted or on their side

Cheers

Richard

Hi Jeremey

They are tapered, and the correct size. You did send me the details of the company that made them for you, but they never responded to my request for quotation. I thought that they may be folded in the corners and spot welded, but have seen later versions that have been seam welded, not a 100% sure if these were original or repaired. All in all still very pleased with them, I will be drilling small drain holes in corners, plus punching the large drain hole..

Just ordered a load of metal, for floor pan, internal bin, door skins etc.etc. So loads of metal bashing in the next few weeks.The plan is to get all this loosely fitted before the bulkhead goes away for final grit blast and etch prime. When back at the "shed", I will do the final bit of 'fettling' to get it all fitting really well.

The hoop sticks (1" OD 10swg),  rear mudguard supports and spare whee (1.5" x 0.2" angle iron) will be fun to bend into shape (watch this space....)

Hi

Picked these up plus other bits from my metal fabricator. Very pleased with th tank trays , channel for rear of cab.A friend of mine kindly lent me the oil air bath filter bracket and getting this made. Does anyone need tank trays, rear channel or oil air bath filter. (costs appx £110 for pair of tank trays, channel £80, filter bracket £55. Price will come down if I can get a reasonable quantity made. PM me if you are interested. (tank tray needs a large drain hole, what size is it ? )

Probably the contact number Wally Duggan might know 

Or this...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Smiths-Motor-Accessories-Oil-Pressure-Gauge-0-to-40-lbs/253561329063?hash=item3b096ed5a7:g:cVoAAOSwoX5ayJ2K

On an MW, they are on the passengers side chassis rail, between the two side step brackets, about 1.5" down from the top of the rail, stamping size is about 3/8". I think that they are on the same place on an OX. On my MW it was very difficult to see as the top part of the rail was heavily pitted by corrosion, suggest you use paint stripper to remove the paint, as many are only very lightly stamped.

Richard