64EK26

Hi

Arrived yesterday. Easy to book in ( they just scan your ticket, so don't forget to print off your passes.

A few vehicles, loads of pitches marked up by groups. Rows A-D

of the trade stands starting to fill up.

According to the programme nearly all of the trade stands on the map have been taken.

A large delivery of showers arrived, loos are a bit sparse at the moment.

We will see how today pans out. Anyway looking forward to the week

cheers

Richard

Hi

Thanks for the inputs and the advice on where to put an electric pump if we go down this route.

The banjo bolts are all free from debris, and as far as we can tell all the lines are airtight. We will double check and I will keep you posted. By the way the pump has had its diaphragm replaced.

Cheers

Richard

Hi

After paying (supposedly for extra facilities, loos, showers etc)

This from the W&P website is a bit worrying https://warandpeacerevival.com/on-site-facilities/

Which shows this.

Also no list of traders (coming soon, but has been coming soon for a long time)

Cheers

Richatd

Hi

Have spent a bit of time (along with others) in trying to sort out a Ferret Fuel Pump problem.

The conclusion we have reached is that the pump is not pumping when fitted to the engine. The pump works fine when it off the engine. When fitted to the engine, Fuel filter bled and fuel lines primed no fuel is reaching the carb.

The fuel pump is driven via a push rod and cam in the engine, are these prone to wear ?

Also what 24V electric fuel pump can anyone recommend and where is the best place to fit one ?

Cheers

Richard

Had a chance to do a bit on the Engine Block (inbetween trying to sort out Austin Champ Starter Motor Problema and Ferret Fuel Pump)

I can now get at all of the core plugs, which will be replaced (after clearing waterways). As well as taking the pistons out and checking the rings etc. Anything else I should do whilts it is stripped down this far ?

Bell Housing, Flywheel and clutch plate assembly back at home ready for cleaning etc.

Will be having a couple of weeks off for W&P. I will be with the Vintage Operating Group, demonstrating radios (WW2 to current), and will be located at the end of the traders area stands R20 - R23. Drop in for a chat if you feel like it.

Cheers

Richard

Peter/Jeremy

Thanks for the replies and the photo of the fuel tap

1) I have labelled the tanks (Near Side amd Off side) - think this is correct

2) Peter I see that your Nearside tak (?) has a supporting strap on the neck

3) The fuel cap on the RHS in the picture above is pressed steel, the other is cast (aluminium I think)

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Just added some photos here (post#65) http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?55995-Bedford-MWC-restoration&p=492542#post492542

Photos of fuel tanks

The threads on the tanks are different, the on on the right has an NPT ? thread and the one on the left has a BSP thread

I will be replacing the internal pipe to a brass one with a gauze filter as the existing one is very corroded (does the tap on this tank screw onto the 1/4" BSP outlet ?. I don't have any fittings for the tank on the right.

Also I assume that the filler cap on the right in the picture below is the correct one (so need to look out for at least one)

Hi

Not posted for a short while...

I have been busy sorting various bits an bobs

Starter motor rebuilt (commutator skimmed and new return spring fitted) all tested and working fine

Generator refurbished, all tested and working

Sourced all the bits I think I need for the engine rebuild, new collets, core plugs timing chain. Still have a question about the block see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?57600-Bedford-28HP-Cylinder-Block-Core-Expansion-Plugs

(Norman Aish doesn’t know what these are)

Cleaning the outside of the fuel tanks, but again I have a couple of questions see http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?57653-Bedford-MW-fuel-tanks-and-fittngs

Will be checking the insides with an endoscope and cleaning out with ball bearings and paraffin

The chassis grit blasting is on hold until I get back from W&P. As I will then have an uninterrupted run to get the rear extensions made, do the welding and get plenty of primer on it.

Still looking for Stellar filters, differential pumps and a mono pump, any leads would be most welcome.

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Been cleaning up my MWC petrol tanks....

Is there any difference between LH and RH tanks ?

The fittings on my two tanks are different

Tank 1

This has a 1/4" BSP Drain plug and a 1/2” BSP to 1/4” BSP straight adapter coming out of the top (fuel feed)

Tank 2

This has 1/8” BSP Drain plug and what looks like a 3/8” NPT threaded insert on the top (5/8” UNF is a very sloppy fit so that’s why I think it is 3/8 NPT)

Only one tank should have a fuel tap on it (LH side), push pull type, what does this actually look like? (a photo would be good. Does it fit directly into the tank with a long feed pipe ?

I assume that the other side is a right angled outlet going to a 1/4” BSP male as the change over switch has 1/4” BSP connections on it, is this correct ?

Cheers

Richard

Hi

On the top of my 28HP block, there are 4 core/expansion plugs (1” Diameter), can’t see them on my parts list. Two of which appear to lead filled to make them level with the top of the block. Are these normal dome type core plugs and is lead filling correct?

Cheers

Richard

Hi

A few points

1. The primary intention is to be able to move the trailer to a safe place
   
2. Also so that it can be used as an anchor point on a recovery vehicle
   
3. I am well aware of the legislation and safety requirements from my work in the arms industry.
   
4. For any design I come up with, I will do a full set of stress calculations including shock loading
   

The design shown is off the web and I would not design anything like that, the way the adaptor has been fitted means that the trailer eye could partially rotate. When towing a trailer only one part of the linkage should be able to rotate.

Also decided to go for Recovery Breakdown for the vehicle, if they can take the trailer all well and good, if not I will make the trailer secure and collect it later.

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Sprockets look a little worn but are OK

This is what it looked like

and this is with a new timing chain (virtually no slack as what I had expected)

The chain had stretched about 1/4" !!!. God knows what it sounded like when it was last running

Cheers

Richard

Hi

No joy from Cherished....

My broker couldn't find anything as well.

The total length of the vehicle and trailer puts into the 'commercial' recovery world. So starts getting very expensive.

Might make something like this

Then I can get cheap breakdown recovery

Suggest people check the smallprint

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Thanks for the inputs

Ian - your trailer doesn't look that safe on the back of the recovery truck (I assume it got back safely)

My Landrover is my only vehicle that I use every day so I can't get classic insurance for it and thus get the specialised breakdown recovery.

The RAC won't cover nor will Carol Nash, so as 'JEMIMA' says it would be a good idea to check out the small print before you get stung for additional costs, but hopefully you never break down.

Just tried Cherished and waiting for them to call back... will let you know what they come up with

Cheers

Richard

Hi

I thought I was covered (with ETA) towing my trailer with a NATO hitch, but NO in the small print it says that a trailer will only be covered if it has a standard 50mm ball hitch. So I haven't renewed it

Just tried Brittania Rescue, same applies about a 50mm ball hitch, so Brittania and ETA a no good for me

Any ideas which recovery service will cover a vehicle (Land Rover) and Sankey Trailer

Cheers

Richard

Hi Richard

Thanks for the quick response, the distance I can push it in is about 7/8". That is why I was concerned. I will post a photo in the next few days (the enging block is not at my house at the moment, it is very heavy to lift!). I will also inspect the gears.

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Just found this photo in the 1949 Bedford shop Manual that shows the routing from the distributor

Cheers

Richard

Hi

How much allowable play is allowed in the timing chain, see attached drawing

From the Bedford Shop Manual

Type: Duplex Roller

Pitch: 3/8"

Number of Pitches: 54

Width over Joint: 0.93" [is this the allowable play, as I have never come across this term before

Cheers

Richatd

Hi

Mine on the distributor end is 5/16" UNF (the male to male adaptor is a special thread (25TPI) to 5/16" UNF) , don't know about the carb end as I am missing the adaptor that fits into the carb

Cheers

Richard

Hi

See this thread

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?57460-Bedford-MW-Vacuum-advance

I believe it goes round the back of the engine

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Suggest you read this (see para 19.2) which deals with the CFFE (Certified Free From Explosives)

http://www.eig.org.uk/eig2007/wp-content/uploads/disposal_guide.pdf

The Health and Safety Executive and or The Institute of Explosive Engineers should be able to help and give you advice.

ALso see Joint Services Publication JSP482

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/jsp-482-mod-explosives-regulations

Chapter 27 deals with CFFE but is on applicable to the MoD

https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/198311/C27_Edt4_FINAL.pdf

When I was working, the ‘item’ was inspected by a Chartered Engineer who was a menber of the Institute of Explosive Engineers and if necessary tested by our resident Chemist, after which a certificate could be signed and issued. The 'item' was suitably labelled and had reference to the CFFE certificate.

Cheers

Richard

Thanks Richard

Pete Gaine has found one for me.

I will find out wat other small engine bits I am missing in due course....

Cheers

Richard

Hi

Thanks for the response, had a closer look at the carb, it does have a hole for the vacuum advance (originally thought that it was a a blind recess). See attached photo

The thread in this hole is wierd. Just taken a bolt of an old Solex P40 carb which is 0.308" OD, 25TPI, which is a very tight fit, don't want to overtighten as it will probably damage the thread on the carb. Anyone know what thread it actually is ?

Hi

Sille me... Just found the answer to the length (38" of 1/8"OD-22SWG tube) in the parts list (was looking in the wrong place), also listed is clip to cylinder head and clip to pushrod cover. End of pipe goes to carb (not inlet manifold), Can't see the connection on the carb.

Cheers

Richard