fv1609

3G is very slow here. Yes far too many caravans, motor homes, civvy tents, kiddies on mini quads & mini bikes charging around in the mud tracks as their playground.

This poor old Humber seems to be in a very good hunting ground!

That's a nice little sequence of shots Bernard, thank you. Photography is well above average for those sort of in service shots of the time & nice to see a complete number plate!

Ok thanks Robert. I think at least if I take the Wolf I can get on with it & muck in, rather than delay waiting for an improvement that is unlikely to come. This will be the 6th show this season & all of them have involved a high proportion of rain, not what I dreamt of in those wet cold winter evenings. I suppose it will avoid all those silly questions when people look at the Shorland & ask if it is home made. Trouble is now I will get the top irritating Wolf question. "Is it it a relpica & you have just bolted Wolf bits on?" Grrrrrrrrrrrh!

Robert what is your feeling about the weather for the mid-week onwards? If it is going to be grot, fair enough I'll take the Wolf & kip in it. I'm not struggling in rain & mud to put up a tent. Then spend all my time treading around in mud Although I really would like to go in something more interesting, so if there looks like an improvement coming I'll delay for a couple of days & take the Shorland which requires me in tentage.

Oh crikey that's something new I've got to learn about. Although 3G serves me quite well when away from home, although I do try avoid viewing threads with lots of pictures.

So is there any wifi available on site? I looked at the map for BT FON/Openzone/Roaming Openzone but could see nothing. So any organisation providing wifi? What's the 3G signal like? I think that may be my only option.

Many of us will be familiar with the final few lines at the back (less commonly at the front) of WO & Army Coded Publications. Typically there will be the printers name & his job number Then "Wt 12345/67890" ie a double large number block Then number of copies printed eg either 10,000 or 10m Month & year of publication Gp or Group usually 3 digits The order varies a little sometimes. Having studied such entries for several thousand publications, I have now seen for the first time "Demand" followed by 6 digits. This is in lieu of the "Wt" numbers. I have never managed to interpret "Wt" & seems to have no relationship to weight. Seeing "Demand" in its place makes me wonder if it is the reference number of the now MOD to printer contract. In the same way that trucks might have "WV" on the vehicle body/chassis plate signifying the number of the Wheeled Vehicle Contract. So might "Wt" be something like a contraction of "War Office contract"? Once you move into documents printed under the authority of the MOD, then of course WO Code was dropped & they were Army Code, then the "Wt" disappears & is replaced by a long number preceded by "M" presumably meaning MOD. Has anyone seen "Demand" before? Might it have been short lived in the period immediately after the setting up of the MOD in 1964? Anyone got any Army Coded books of this period that have "Demand"? Anyone any ideas? Unfortunate typo for Liverpool!

Well that was very easy goodbye Free(pay)serve/don'tWanadoo/Lemon now on BT:D Got the wifi going with 2 PCs & 2 phones in a very short time. But have spent nearly 4 hours trying to set up the various email accounts, trouble is the instructions that "guide" you through setting up on their Thunderbird a quite different from the latest version I have. There are certain name of fields & turns of phrase that are not the same & some ambiguities. The ports Thunderbird thinks are best are different from the BT ones. Then again I thought I was setting it up for mail from BTinternet but this all intermingles BT-Yahoo mail. I don't now if those are different things are its all part of the same thing. At least I can still use gmail & the spammers haven't caught on to that address yet

Richard there is some coverage here: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?8606-Ignition-Matters It's years since I've bought any new plugs. If the mica insulation is still intact, consider something like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Spark-Plug-Cleaner-Air-Blast-Cleaner-Two-Way-Valve-/140524437435?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20b7e8bfbb

So we have Oxford Blue, heat resisting that seems to have no role in alternator repair nor indeed any known vehicular application, although it is in the COSA as a heat resisting vehicle finishing paint. The bright blue inside the No.12 doesn't tie in with any special purpose paint. Most of the electrical anti-tracking paints are clear & one grey. All the alternator EMERs specify the diode packs for insulation purposes are to be painted with heat resisting paint although its type varies & is not born out by observation. Generator No.12 CVR(T) Sky Blue Generator No.10 (Rover) Gloss Black Generator No.9 (Hornet & Mk 1 FV432) Gloss Black Alternator No.1(oil cooled) Sky Blue All very curious:undecided:

Yes I think that it is worth a try. I'll upload the complete section describing their function.

Dan yes the plunger could be stuck. When you engage 1st you should find yourself compressing the plunger & "loading" the ready to spring out when you move into 2nd. But if it is stuck as you drive along in 1st you should be able to manually lift the FWD lever from being 30 degrees or so down up to horizontal, just as one would in a Mk 1. However as I move off in my Mk 1 in 1st sometimes the 4WD lever will not always lift up but above 5 mph you should be able to move it. There should be no dramatic thuds etc to tell you that it has come out of 4WD. If you ever get a thud from behind you as you release the clutch it is a sign that the 2 bolts on the torque reaction bracket on the transfer box are loose.

A shame its all messed up but at least it is diagnostically satisfying. Although I have a nice one here, it is my reserve one I'm keeping I'm afraid. In your half of the world might be worth trying Pat. He always tries to carry a good stock of spares. http://www.khakicorpsimports.com/ Over here these are really your only hope: http://www.marcusglenn.com/ http://www.milweb.net/go/banister/ http://www.champ-sparesukltd.com/ There are always private sellers on ebay of course Depending on the packaging & when it was packaged or repackaged it might display different numbers. So although it is quite correct to look for FV157930 it could turn up in another guise. NSN 6110-99-803-5839 Pre NATO codification it was LV6/MT4/CB/235/1 RAF as 16E22920 Although it was used in various vehicles for some reason it assumed another identity in Thornycrofts as LV7/TY/FV157930 If all else fails or it is too expensive you might consider dismantling it & giving it a good clean. I have instructions for resetting the gaps for both breakers.

When you start it with the 24+ jumper to SOL I assume the ignition & oil lights come on in the normal way? By doing this you are in effect bypassing the 10A circuit breaker, which I feel is the main suspect, especially now you have shown the system works with it out of circuit. You may feel that the circuit breaker is working because you can measure 24v on it with your meter. The problem is the circuit breaker is a bit of a misnomer in that it doesn't entirely break the circuit. When the "circuit is broken" because of the coil inside it there is nearly 200 ohms connected in the circuit. When it is unplugged because your voltmeter draws an extremely small current then 24v can be read on the meter. Once a load starts to draw meaningful current the resistance of the coil causes a voltage drop. Obviously the greater the current drawn the greater the voltage drop. So by dropping down to 3.5v suggests a current of 0.1 amps is being drawn. Given that this "circuit breaker" is a thermal device would fit in with the fact that this problem is most obvious in the heat of the day. Part of the ignition switch is grounded to the case of the switchboard. If you were thinking along the lines that there is some shorting out to earth that is reducing the voltage, this would be unlikely if it is all working as per my question at the beginning. Sadly I am only too familiar with the insides of these switchboards both Mk 1 & Mk 6 which I imagine is what you have. Mks 2-5 seem to have been entirely different units. The internal construction of the Mk 6 is significantly different from the Mk 1 & incorporates not just a different light switch configuration but the ignition switch is of a superior design. None the less they are only too prone to failure, I think I have about 5 defective ones here!

INS is supplied from a 10A circuit breaker in the Distribution Box No.1 (together with another one for 30A that supplies the main vehicle lights) I would put an ammeter between supply INS & the switchboard INS it supplies & see if an excessive current is being drawn. If it is more than 10A then the thermal breaker will operate. Once cooled down it will reactivate itself. It is does not totally break the circuit in the modern sense, when a fault exists nearly 200 ohms is introduced in series into the circuit. Or you may have a fault in the circuit breaker itself, which fairly unusual Whilst you are at it, if you haven't done this for a while, I would unplug (one at a time) each end of all those bullet connections make sure they are clean & the female inner tube clean & tight, then plug in very firmly. I had an intermittent on one this year, it was very misleading as it looked as if everything was plugged in correctly. But because of the waterproofing lip on the female it held the bullet plug in place although it was barely touching electrically. A clean & a really hard push solved it. It was caused by part of the female lip having rolled under & prevented full entry of the bullet but held it in place & would not seem to go in any further until I had rolled the bent lip out of the way.

Dan well done on the progress in general. In a Mk 1 you have to disengage 4WD manually. But I don't know do you have a Mk 2? If so there should be a spring loaded device to eject it out of 4WD when you go into second, like this?

Mike 2 types shown No.10 is from a Rover produced from 1960s. This is a Mk 3 so was the latest version so could be from 70s-80s. The No.12 is from a CVR(T) & a provisional look at 5 examples recently they all look to be the same.

Ted I've been waiting for you to join in as I know paint is a subject dear to your heart:D As regards B Series engines I notice that for many vehicle types the provisional/troop trial UHBs show much of the engine & bits in black. With subsequent publications most components become engulfed in BSC 101. Although I note that all the Solex 40NNIP carbs refurbished by Marcus Engineering for Pigs in NI were done in black & very smart they look to! Anyway moving away from B Series. I believe once I saw what I took to be a NOS No.10 in black but have never seen the like since. So you may be right that they are 101 on manufacture. So this internal blue is that from manufacture or repair? I can't reconcile how there is 101 on the exterior & strange blue inside on both of these quite different generators. I don't understand how there are differing colours inside & out. Yet the EMER instructions in different paragraphs indicate that the interior & exterior are in the same colour & that colour is black! I think the important issue on the painting is not just for preservation but for waterproofing as the generator is designed to be submerged. It all gets wet except the brush housing that is sealed off with gaskets & a diaphragm that is able to balance any internal air pressure changes. The main purpose of the internal paint seems to be as an insulator as these painting instructions are in the paragraph "Waterproof barrier repair". So this isn't heat resisting Oxford Blue vehicle finishing paint, but I wonder what application indicated that to be used?

David yes Eau de Nil was prescribed for certain interiors such as some ambulances & signals vehicles. It was also a colour used for zinc phosphate primer, which indeed I have used on some areas of my cipher trailer & colour wise is indistinguishable from the gloss finish. Yes Sky Blue was widely used on reconditioned engines & ancillaries. You can see the difference here: The mystery blue I think would be better named Sky Blue which in contrast to the outside which looks like a sort of weak pea soup green. Mike yes those other blues do look closer to it. The reason I voiced Oxford Blue is as follows. The EMER describing repairs to the diodes describe that the inside should be painted with H1/8010-99-220-2046. Later on it describes painting the outside the same colour H1/8010-99-220-2046. So there is contradiction as to what has been done to both of these quite different generators. Well H1/8010-99-220-2046 is a black heat resisting paint. I have never seen a generator (other than early OEM dynamos of B Series) painted black. Looking in COSA H1 it lists only 3 heat resisting finishing paints for use with vehicles. Black, Sky Blue & Oxford Blue. So I wondered whether this was Oxford Blue. If it is not, what is it? What vehicle application would it be used for that requires a heat resisting property? I can't recall having seen any vehicle components painted with this colour. H1/8010-99-220-2046 is the paint quoted but when you look at Oxford Blue it is H1/8010-99-220-2047 So might that be a typo? If it is it hasn't been amended as this 1966 EMER has a number of hand written amendments. All very strange. Before I looked inside these two quite unrelated generators I was expecting to see Sky Blue throughout. Why would there be a different internal colour scheme & why does it differ from the EMER that seems to say it should all now be black?

David it's not Eau de Nil, I painted some genuine stuff on the inside of my trailer. I'm perplexed by the colour, these sites that show colour charts are a bit misleading when you look at a colour you are very familiar with often it doesn't seem quite right & of course a lot depends on the settings on my monitor! I know what you mean about recon engines etc that is Sky Blue 101 which actually looks much paler & greener than this mystery blue. Incidentally this blue is on two different generators the first is a No.10 from a Rover & the second a No.12 from a CVR(T)

Is this Oxford Blue BS381C 105? If not what BSC is it?

Neil, thank you that is quite easy, that's the sort of thing I was hoping for. On the down side it gives both axes starting at zero which I don't want, no individual graph boxes to ensure correct alignment when reading off values & for some reason there is a second purple line plotted that has no obvious relevance to main plot. I might use it to get a general feel of how things plot out before I draw a proper graph or it might be useful at a business coaching seminar to show Lord Sugar my projected sales figures. So it looks fun, not quite precise enough to take readings from, or is there some other button that can do this?

Oh I see its one of those creeping in, like my mum who is called a mom