fv1609

A pair of WCPs in it would go down very well domestically

Yes but will it Wayne? A bargain but with what are you going to tow it & for what purpose? AFAIK it looks like the Pig is the only option you have but they are not matched mechanically or historically & you must surely be able to fit any of your kit within the Pig itself? I don't know, you might be planning to fit a pair of Water Carriage Packs & be able to water the horses. I have just one WCP for that purpose. But even my much smaller FV2381 doesn't see much use & as you know ends up as a storage facility for junk

If there is such an adaptor Chris be aware that there are now two types in use 7-pin (ISO 1724) and 13-pin (ISO 11446) But if you make one the NATO connections are here: http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/NATOTrailerSocket.pdf

Does it look like this?

Wayne are sure this is not the 1.3/4 Tonne Trailer? Bit out of context for the Humber need to look for a 1 Ton trailer :-D

Yes that was sobering news indeed Paul on both fronts that makes it difficult to carry on as one once did. But I suppose the work & organisation culminating at the weekend was some measure of distraction from the sad aspects of life. But I was glad to see you enjoying yourself driving around in that conveyance of Bernard's.

Quite The next stage would be to remove the plug & earth the thread & see if a spark is produced across the gap. This would establish that the HT was not being lost by some internal plug fault. But of course the plug gap is quite small & a reduced HT might still produce a spark in air but not under compression. As a guide to the adequacy of the HT then the plug lead connector should be held against an earth point & one would hope to see a spark jump a cm or so.

Many thanks Paul & to your helpers. Most enjoyable show. 100 miles from here but well worth the drive.

The problem with those neon test gadgets is that they only tell you HT is getting to the lead. If it flashes it is taken to mean that a spark is being produced. But this is not necessarily so because if you have a cracked insulator the HT can be leaking to earth. Thereby completing a circuit to light the neon without there being any spark. It would also flash misleadingly if the insulator was sooted you could get spurious sparking across this without a proper spark at the gap yet the neon would be flashing away making you believe that the sparking plug was performing correctly.

Jimmy do you literally mean pitted or was it rough & slightly bumpy? If it was pitted it means there is metal loss from the rotor arm to the brass pillars that go to each plug lead. This suggests you have a positive spark at the plugs rather than a negative one. The spark prefers to jump from the hot central electrode to the relatively cooler side contact. The spark is more reluctant to jump from the colder side contact to the centre electrode & requires 30% more HT voltage to achieve this. The cause of a positive spark would be if the leads to the coil SW & CB have been reversed. If you are going to Evesham I have range of test equipment so that I can measure HT, test coils, capacitors, rotor arms (if fitted on the distributor shaft), sparking plugs & insulation etc. This can be done without the vehicle.

Ole the problem is now either trying to find the form to rescan or trying to recover the scan from the hard drive of the PC that died a few weeks ago :undecided:

Trevor it does look rather like a diode, but it is actually a bushing capacitor. Wayne I can't read your label but if that lead from the choke is broken it is important as it feeds the cut out relay top left & to the top side of that there should be a fuse. Yes put your Avo on the lowest ohms range. Touch the test prods together & it should read pretty much full scale deflection in the order of 0 ohms. Trim this to read exactly 0 ohms with the ohms zeroing knob. Once calibrated to zero test apply a test prod to A&B then test C&E. A&B are not joined in any way to C&E unlike the Mk2 that has a common link.

Wayne the field winding is A & B, the output is C & E. I know you have got an Avo

VAOS Section ZB confirms this

I would do the basic test on the dynamo itself as in the UHB but be careful not to let revs go too high. Maybe look out for a No.2 panel which should be easier to obtain & could be used either as a direct replacement or for originality a substitute for testing. Before that just check the dynamo field winding. The resistance will be in EMER POWER P 124/3 Field Repairs or P 128/3 Base Standard. But I would guess somewhere in the 10 ohms region.

Wayne it would be worth joining this group as the subject will have been extensively covered before. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/AustinChamp/info

Hello Wilson nice to see you around. The pictures are of the same plug which is actually a RSN12Y.

Oli not aware of any specific mod to fit them. On the 90 I fitted 2. One horizontally below the top rear roll cage member & the other below the member just behind the front seats. On the 110 I fitted the same but an additional one in the additional roof member. I attempted to modify the clamps to attach to the roll cage frame. Although I filled them down to engage the thicker tubing of the roll cage I was unable to engage the clamping mechanism so that was a waste of time. I just bought some U shaped exhaust clamps & fitted them to tubing & using the thread of one leg of the clamp fitted it into the grommeted hole at the end of each penthouse light & the a nyloc nut. I connected them in series with a feed via a fuse from the batteries to the front one, then another lead to the middle & from the output of the middle to the rear one. I did use the screening of the cable in the earth feed to minimise the RF interference radiated on the FM broadcast band. PS I had a set of 4, but I realise I only wired in 3

A couple of days ago near Swansea off M4. Transporter had RM badge.

Sheep fluff hmm I had a lot of that underneath my Pig :nut: As I degreaser I use paint brush cleaner. Relatively cheap not overtly inflammable & water soluble. Might need to work in with a stout brush for the really heavy deposits. I put drip tray underneath to collect most of the liquid, tip it into large jars so the worst of the sludge can separate out then use the less contaminated stuff for the first attack on the grease to soften it up. Then fresh for the final treatment, then use the power wash.

Two clues in there Wayne. FDD changed to FVDE later in 1948 I quoted 2-digit paint codes from BS 381 from 1931, this changed to 3-digits in BS 381C later in 1948 Yes as Terry says RO, DAG, DBG then whatever else on top as time went by.

Yes Spec 2012 dated 1st January 1948

Yes exactly as per FVDD Spec 2012 :-D Primer: Red Oxide of Iron Undercoat: Dark Admiralty Grey BS Colour No.32 Finish paint: Deep Bronze Green BS Colour No.24

Well you can really get to work now Wayne :-D A needle scaler is the tool of my choice, then Kurust then red oxide & black gloss (for the pure chassis stuff) but the Pig added fittings to the Humber chassis even underneath in DBG. On good bits of chassis I just painted on Wickes metal paint, even the original black gloss was straight onto bare metal. Places for rust are the Pig rear box section as per my earlier posts. The centre of the Humber chassis at the X intersection is the lowest part of course & I had to repair a few inches of that.