jim fl4

Thanks Malcolm, will do. Jim

Thank you Richard for your considered explanation. I think it could be worth a try, if no off roading, (certainly not involving mud or gradients) is expected and not driven too hard. Slightly off topic but with your experience of ferret wheel stations, which is usually the weaker....Bevel box or hubs? Thanks again :-) Jim

Interesting, does that mean that a quick and easy wasy to make a 2wd ferret would be to remove the front or rear sun gears? Reason I ask is that the inevitable windup on metalled roads sounds to result in likely damage to wheel stations and if 4wd is not needed then? Can just a pair of bevel boxes/hubs handle the torque? Cheers Jim

Hi Jim, Welcome to a great forum, I too am a newbie and also a ferret owner, what condition is yours in? Cheers Jim

Thanks Andy, interesting info :-). Cheers Jim

Hi, I think mines faulty. Does anyone know what other engines they were fitted to? cannot think they would be unique to Rolls engines, but who knows??? Cheers Jim.

Sorry, just seen on earlier thread its 1 and 1/8inch. Great stuff :-), plenty on ebay, got choice of girling or lockhead, any preference?? Cheers Jim

Hi again, Does anyone know a good contact for replacement seals for the wheel cylinders? Cheers :-) Jim

great job :-):-)

Hi Richard, Thanks for jumping in :-):-), will test the sender tomorrow, its probably duff and then ring the above. Thanks for the lead :-). Cheers Jim

Thanks Clive for your reply, I will try with the multimeter tomorrow and report back. Do you have any suggestions as to where to source a replacement sender...and headlight bulb :-)? cheers Jim

Hi Clive, Had a look today and can report the following. 1. removed the connector to the thermostat, separated the two ends and checked - with ignition on needles flies up to max. 2. Clamped both ends together - result is the needle does NOT move. 3. reattached the wire ends into the sender, result needles flies up. Does this mean its the sender (thermometer)? Cheers Jim

Hi Clive, I will check that out tomorrow. Many thanks :-):-):-) Jim

Hi, before I investigate wondered if anyone might have experience with this fault. When ignition is off temp gauge needle is on cold, when ignition is ON needle flies up to max. Now, if this were an old car with an electric sender I would say its wire is simply running to earth, but in this case I don't know? I've looked and the braided cable to the thermometer looks fine? Thanks Jim

To those interested here's an update; The adjuster nut turned out to not be that stiff after all. I followed the EMER and found that actually very little adjustment was required to bring the measurements and the 'feel' of the pedal back correct. Still have approx. 3mms of pull rod travel before its level with the top of the adjuster nut. Acid test came after re-assembly and, Yippee :-):laugh: not been able to induce any band slip, ie engine revving away with no increase in speed. Fearful of being unable to re-start the adjuster nut I never did un-thread it completely from the pull rod. If I could have done this it would have allowed me a much superior look at the condition of the threads, because the nut is still a tad stiff on the threads of the pull rod and I do have my doubts as to whether it will continue to auto adjust? I have been surprised how easy manual adjustment can be. A big thank you to Richard Farrant for his expert advice, its people like Richard which make forums like this so great :-). cheers Jim

Cheers Terry, much appreciated :-). Jim

Hi, Just a thought before I get strong with the adjuster nut... Whats the pull rod connection like at the other end?, obviously the last thing I want to do is to cause any damage down there, or worse still end up with it in my hands :shocked::shocked:? Thanks again :-), Jim

Upps again :nut::nut: Got confused with fig. 8 - gauge setting; thought 'X' length was to the underside of the top casing, having looked again at the drawing I think I was mistaken, as it should be to the top face of the casing :blush:. This means that the recorded X measurement for 2nd gear before doing adjustments is now much nearer to being the correct length, ie. 7.05inch. Jim

Hi Richard, My thoughts too :-| but got a few threads to go. Anyhow, just back in and with neutral engaged, ie pedal stays down, the nut is still not wanting to budge. Tomorrow I will try a bit more ummph. Thanks again Richard. Jim

:shocked: upps!! Nope:nut:

Hi, I engaged neutral, backed the adjuster screw right in, then selected/engaged 2nd gear and released the adjuster spring. Now from here on things get interesting :nut:. The busbars height measurement is amount 8-10mm short of the 7.05 inch spec., ie the rod needs to go down that amount. The adjuster nut is not willing to move! There doesn't seem to be a load pressing on it because I can move the adjuster ring easily in a slight arc. The question is; ought the nut to move, regardless of the position of the rod its threaded to?....I assume it should but?? Cheers Jim

Hi Richard, Thank you for your reply. I must have missed the drawing:blush:. Armed with this info I will have a VERY tentative go and see what happens!! Cheers Jim

Hi Richard, I have located the relevant EMER doc. and will now make up a rod to measure the distance from busbar to underside of casing. Thanks again :-), Jim

Hi Richard, I had been hoping you might reply :-):-). Ok, I've already found a pdf file off another FV-701 internet site which I think I can use to help me with the adjustment. What does EMER stand for? I presume all the adjustment can be done with the box in-situ, through the inspection hole? Its good I only need to bother with 2nd gear:). Will post accounts of my experience and result for the benefit of all. Thanks for your invaluable help. Cheers Jim.