flyingfleasteve

Gents this is fantastic!! Thank you for all of your time and input this is invaluable information! Dare I ask details of the front axel set up.....🤔

Looking good Ron!!

Thanks Lex! Yes I think a lathe would be a good investment.....I keep saying know more restorations 🙈 I must say I am jealous, your workshop is much tidyer than mine ! 👍

Lex. That’s fantastic! Thank you! I am really starting to get an idea now of how the rear wheel goes together......👍 I think I am now in a position to piece all of this together, Lex if you could just confirm the dims of spacers marked 1 & 2 that would be great! I assume that the nut on the end of the long spindle is no longer sourceable?

Hi Lex. That’s the rear spindle and spacer which I have...... so it’s just the remaining spacers and nut which I needs the specification for, please. Steve

Thanks Henry, much appreciated

That’s both, much appreciated I have the long spindle and the two spacers circled in the attached but missing everything else 🙈 Lex would you be kind enough to confirm the dims of the two remaining spacers and the nut, please.

So today I managed a day on the G3, now that the paint has hardened I started to reconstruct the frame with some of the new fixtures purchased from AMC classics. With the frame now standing I turned my attention to rebuilding the rear wheel. Putting the wheel together raised a few quandaries....... I noticed that the rear wheel axle is longer on one side of the bearing than the other? I assume that the shorted side is located on the drive side? Would anyone happen to have any photos and or specs. of the rear wheel spacers shown below? It appears I have the following; Spindle Spacer, external, right side 36-8-H16 Washer, for solid Spindle STD-229 But I am missing the rest, unfortunately. A bit of a head scratch at the moment.....

Thanks Leggy, that’s the plan.

Cheers Ron. I got a little confused with the parts book, I have just emailed one of the suppliers for a little more info.....watch this space 👍

Sorting through my many box of bits I am starting to piece together the Burman CP gearbox for rebuild, whilst the weather is poor. I am confused as to the size and length of the 5x studs which secure the outer kickstart casing? I am thinking they are 1/4 x 1”, Whitworth?

Thanks Gents! Much appreciated!

With the paint curing and my new butane torch on route it’s time to turn my attention back the stuck for sprindle within the lower head stock........ Sourcing a replacement spindle is a little tricky so I am going to make one. Would anyone happen to know the bar size and thread profile?

Thanks Gents! I have now secured the purchase of the correct carb and I am now turning my attention back to paint job whilst the weather is a little better............ The main components which were recently blasted and primed have now been finished in there final livery. As many of us know ‘mixing’ KG3 is not an exact science, with this in mind I have ‘experimented’ with some of my obsolete paints I have lying around after my previous restorations. The paint would have only gone to waste. on the whole I think I am happy with the final ‘look’ but time will tell.

This is the one.....

Thanks Ron! Very helpful, I have been offered a 276/400r, a factory replacement for a 276B/1J? Would this be a correct addition or should I hold out for a 275B/1J?

Cheers Ron. I shall give it a go......fingers 🤞 So hear I’d my second anorak question of the week........Carburettors! I am under the impression my Matchless should be fitted with an Amal 276B/1J? Now having a parts book it lists the carb correct carb as a 276/014-R? Is this the more generic code for the carb? I have came across this picture showing a 276/014 carb but then subsequently at some point in its life re-stamped. any comments appreciated?

Great Photo... never seen this before......very interesting!

Due to the condition of some of the components I have removed several snapped studs and bolts. Unfortunately the lower girder fork spindle, or what’s left of it, will not budge! I am afraid hitting the damage spindle any harder may damage the stem..... Any suggestions would be most grateful! Once removed I can start rebuilding.....

Cheers Gents very helpful! Can I ask, what does the correct horn bracket look like?

Thanks Ron. Seems as if we’ve solved the case.....out of interest what does the correct horn bracket look like?

Thanks Gents! Ron my frame number fits in within the numbers you have quoted so it appears the HF1235 is the right horn for my bike! Horns seem like a bit of a minefield! This is the one I purchase last week it has the WD body, after checking it’s dated 47, I guess it’s not inconceivable that the Tufnell plate, with the date on it, could be replaced at some point in its life.......

So here’s the first (of many I am sure) anorak questions. I am given to understand the correct horn for my early panel tank is a Lucas HF180 or HF190? Looking in my Matchless G3 parts list I can see that shortly after the Lucas HF1235 was introduced and found on some later panel tanks? This horn seems a little easier to find! I was given to understand from my research that the war time HF1235 horn had a recessed adjustment screw but post war this recess was deleted (photos attached)? Does anyone know which date this change took place?

Nice picture Ron! Thank you for confirming 👍

Hi Ron Looking at the picture of your G3 you have posted I see the oil filter cap is almost chrome like, not brass like the G3L? Steve