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Chris Hall

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Posts posted by Chris Hall

  1. I think I'd weld in some new horn sections on the front. Take them back to the radiator support so you can brace on the inside of the frame and no one can see. I've had to rebuild one of my horn sections in the same way as the battery had eaten away everything.

  2. Hello Steve,

    I'm in sunny Lincolnshire but do get about a bit with work and generally fetch project vehicles myself within a 100 mile radius or use transporters if it's much further.

     

    stress cracks aren't too difficult to repair but make sure it gets done properly so it doesn't start again once the vehicle is in use.

     

    if you want a more in depth chat about it or any repair sections fabricating, give me a call on 07904811582. I've got a jeep in the Workshop currently so I am able to take measurements and patterns from it if need be.

     

    good luck with the project,

     

    cheers Ben

     

    Where abouts are you Ben? I'm in Sleaford just below Cranwell.

  3. I've got a March 42 GPW myself, not got to stripping the axles yet, I'm just repairing the frame before moving on to the axles. Mine have got Ford logos and and GP part numbers. If you've got CJ axles, I've a feeling that may change the steering set up. There have been quite a few GPW axles on eBay recently for reasonable money so could be worth keeping an eye open.

  4. Hopefully I remember this correctly,

     

    Butt No.1 Mk1 introduced with STEN Mk1 Pilot and early production models.

    Butt No.2 Mk1 introduced with STEN Mk1 Later models. Made by U&U (Unique and Unity)

    Butt No.2 Mk2 introduced with STEN Mk2 Early examples made by U&U using the cast abutment plate of the No.1 Mk2

    Butt No.3 Mk1 introduced with STEN MK3 made by Lines Brothers and then by Long Branch of Canada (Subtle differences)

     

    I may have the Butt numbers slightly wrong because I can't remember where the Butt No.3 came into it.

     

    Anyway, the T stock was the first of the common types followed by the loop butt (Rifle profile) not the other way around. The T Stock involved 5 parts to make, the abutment plate, the tube, the butt plate, the reinforcing plate and the machined stud on the abutment plate. All this had to be jigged and then welded. The loop stock has 2 pieces and one weld and is much more economical to produce. Now the STEN Mk2 and 3 were designed at the same time and the butts were also designed at the same time but the Mk2 was introduced before the Mk3. You only need look at the lineage of the Mk3 to see it is a simplification of the Mk1 not the Mk2

  5. I'm currently looking for a Jeep to restore because I don't have the money for a complete and restored example. I also enjoy doing it my self (Which could be a reason why restored MVs don't always fetch the prices people expect) and so I've been watching ebay for a suitable Ford or Willys. What I have noticed is that the same examples come up with a reserve that isn't met and the bidding peters out at about £3000 to £3500. The reserve appears to be around the £4500 mark and so the vehicle doesn't sell. At the end of the day, the buyers are driving the market and it's only worth what some one will pay.

     

    And on that note, anyone know where there is a restorable jeep for £3000 -£3500?

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