andypugh

That was rather a cunning bit of machining. I guess to an extent you were lucky that the part was small enough to swing on the rotary table. I wonder if a threaded and welded lathe-turned taper insert would have worked if you had not been able to rotate the work?

21 dead in the Boston Molasses Flood https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Molasses_Flood

I did manage to change my own mind half-way through my original comment :-) Our 1916 Dennis fire engine has a body almost entirely held together with screws. The work loose with monotonous regularity. At least with a screw you can re-righten it. I don't know what you do if nails work loose. It may be that there was an expectation of much longer service life with a fire engine, and also the possibility of replacing fire-damaged sections of the body.

It might not have been Forward-Control earlier in the day... Very odd to modern eyes to see crowds posing with a cash aftermath.

I normally stamp "RCSMC" and the year f manufacture on the parts I make for our Dennis. Many of the parts I have made are now eligible for HCVS runs in their own right, and the club has rally plaques from 1955. The history of a vehicle by no means ends when it enters preservation.

Are you sure that it is the same one? The Latil I recall from Brighton around then had Portal Axles.

This would be a good engineering solution. But the circlip wasn't invented until 1927. I tend to see these vehicles as archives of engineering practice for their time, so my preference is always to use date-appropriate solutions.

There you are then, a taper-pin solves both problems :-) Is there no possibility of finding a taper pin small enough to not completely block the hole but big enough to do the job? A cross-drilled or waisted taper pin is probably being silly.

A taper-pin would have been authentic for the period.

I have a vision of a whole squad of "little Dutch boys" :-)

I wonder why? Perhaps simply so the bonnet doesn't rub the scuttle when lifted? Otherwise it seems somewhat pointless.

That's starting to look quite a lot like a vehicle, isn't it?

It does look like a nice bit of work, though it is being made in a slightly modern style. If authenticity is important then it should maybe have screws rather than nails holding it together. Of course, I only know how the bodies of Dennis Fire Engines were built, it is entirely possible that American trucks for the war effort were built in a different style for economy and expediency. Thinking about it, I read a blog about restoring a lathe stand that seemed to have a surprising number of nails in it, so should consider retracting my comment above. I can't seem to find any post earlier than number 6 http://markhaglundsfurniturerepair.blogspot.de/2008/05/post-6-rivett-lathe-608-oak-base.html#.VxnyAPkrK9I The finished item: http://markhaglundsfurniturerepair.blogspot.de/2008/06/post-20-rivett-lathe-608-oak-cabinet.html#.VxnyQ_krK9I I used this as a reference when making my own replica lathe cabinet.

Model updated, and PM sent to move this offline for a bit. http://a360.co/1S5nK1G

Strange, it works for someone else I asked to try it. What web browser? Someone mentioned a "Continue" button to be pressed.

it looks like an easy restoration candidate in that picture[1]. I wonder of the rad still exists? [1] In the context of some of the other starting points seen here

On a whim I have created a 3D model of something a bit like the cover. (It is something I have done for a living, took me 15 minutes this lunchtime) If you give me the actual dimensions (base size, corner radius, thickness, height to underside of clip with the right spring-load then I can modify the model into something you can get 3D-printed. http://a360.co/1S5nK1G The link should take you to a web-based model viewer. Let me know if it doesn't, there might be problems with permissions.

You might have been able to do the internal shape with the shaper too, there should be a long-nosed tool, You need to lock the clapper box, though. However, I am left wondering why you didn't have the outer profile wire-eroded too?

One of these? http://ccmv.aecsouthall.co.uk/p818743552/h4a04bae4#h4a04bae4 Has the linked dumb-irons, but different wheels.

7-spoke wheels makes for fast filtering of Google Images photos. The Liberty trucks have 7-spoke wheels and a similar style of spring hanger, but without the bar. The hubs are heavier too. Given that the 7-spoke cast wheel was a Dayton Foundry patent ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Walther_Sr.#World_War_I_-_U.S._Army_Liberty_Trucks ) it seems likely that the truck is American. Though it might well be post-war (the finned exhaust manifold seems quite advanced).

You could fix the collar then put everything back together and run like that for a while, the evidence seems to be that the impeller is still impelling, if you didn't overheat.

Very off-topic but here is the company website http://www.cleanlaser.de/

I think anything with low conductivity is just vapourised. Yes, but then it would be quite possible to wire-brush someone to death too. I would anticipate that the optics are set up to have a divergent beam so that intensity falls off quickly with distance.

I recently (ish) bought 7kg of white metal for £130 from: http://www.jhrichards.co.uk/

But I imagine you were doing this in the era of detachable wheels and pneumatic tyres? I wouldn't want to bet that a double solid-tyred wheel weighs more than a modern truck wheel (I can imagine that those are very heavy) but the game here is sliding the wheel onto the bearing without damaging the bearing. And they are certainly quite heavy enough in the case of a Sankey disc wheel. :-)