I can't disagree with your reaerch Lex. Never the less there are pictures of G3L's with a none screwed winged badge. But I find it hard to beleive that the riders bothered to paint them on. I guess this picture that Jan posted is a victory parade over your way? Ron
Sorry Lex, but there are enough war time pictures of G3L's with a none screwed on "M"
Acording to Robert Derrick's (RIP) research, this first waterslide was fitted to the tank in 1937/38 (I don't know what model)
The second image is for WW2. Ron
The G3L's shown with the flying M's are definitely either painted or transfers (I'd guess transfers which were available for 1937-38 bikes)
A stick on version is available from https://classictransfers.co.uk/product/matchless-6822lc-155x78mm/
Which I have on mine. Ron
Well it's anoying when someone asks a questions and you reply and then get ignored. Even more so when you've taken the trouble to look an answer up . 🤥
The obvious first thing is, have you tried different plugs? Also when earthing the plug, the end of the HT lead must be clear of the earth point. You should get a spark from just the end of the HT lead when held 1/8" or so from an earth point. Ron
PS I'm not sure how you test the HT with a multimeter? The spark generated by the magneto is in the Millivolt rage...Hence the shock if you touch it. Maybe someone with more electronics experience can advice?
Presumably you will acquire one of those metal bases from R&R. So I've concentrated on the rare rubber part. As a stop gap until one turns up, one could be turned in hardwood or aluminium and painted black. The measurements are near enough for a repro. The five grooves are about 1/8" deep Ron
As far as I know, the B set antena's are the same with the exception of the ring brush guard fitted to those in a more vunarable positon. I'm getting ready for a weekend away, but I'll try and take some pictures/measurments tomorrow. Ron