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FV1611B mk1 humber pig generator and first time driving after 50 years.

Kevin Julian

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Just before you do the motor test. You've established the field winding C-E is ok. Put the ohmmeter across the armature A-B no official figure is given but might be something like 50-100 ohms that may vary a bit as you rotate the pulley. If there is no reading or very erratic then suspect your brushes, I have correct length required somewhere.

When I've tested dynamos I've joined A to C and B to E via say a 10A fuse connect -ve to B and +ve to A. Yes I would expect 12v would be ok. It should rotate clockwise when viewed from the drive end.

Using that polarity retains the residual magnetism in the dynamo for normal operation.

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I'll try that Clive. Might have to be next week end. Malvern Militaria tomorrow. Are you able to comment on a couple of unrelated questions.  what goes in the holder on the driver side. What should the original machete look like, i have a vintage one but unsure if correct and last have you seen this door lock before, fitted to the driver's door, very robust and still works. 




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Kevin the side door lock is ingenious but not original, the frame would be for engine oil can (I have two original cans available) (BTW the side locker is not original), as for the machete it doesn't look right but I will check on the CES for the exact type. Your passenger seat canvases look a bit weathered, I'm not sure if I mentioned but I have NOS for both.

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Yes to the oil can please and also the seat covers. I might need those bushes as well if your willing to part with them, I'd have them as spares either way if that is ok. Did you have the generator panel as well or only the 2 speed type. Private message me price and payment details Clive and I'll send address. I might tackle the lockers but keen to see what else might need work once I've driven it, sure to be a few things. I was hoping the door lock might indicate something to do with it's service. Best Regards Kevin

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Kevin looking through the various CES for 1962, 1969, 1969 amended NI, 1974.

The oil can is Tin, oil 1 qt LV6/MT1/22870 I have 2 of these in good condition.

Screw jack, 4 Ton (I have a refurbished one. These have a broad base & less likely to topple like a bottle jack & besides it cannot suddenly unscrew itself)

As for the machete none of those CES mention one, yet fittings for these were provided going back to the FV1609 which was troop trialled in Malaya where there would have been a need. It looks as if it was dropped at an early stage. However, the type that may have been used originally is in the CES for Hornet FV1620 as:

Matchet 15" blade 5110-99-003-8127
Sheath 5140-99-003-7818

Don't understand about "bushes"

I wouldn't worry at the moment about the side lockers very few people spot the diiference.

BTW check your tyre pressures as with run flats it can be difficut to tell by just looking. On a Mk 1 Front 25psi, Rear 40 psi. If the front is incorrect the steering will be peculiar.

I have no 12A Gen Panels, but yours may be ok. People have used the 25A panel directly. I ave two of these boxed.

Too much of a fiddle & effort sending stuff, but I will be at various MV shows throughout the summer for collection. I have a few odd Humber bits including servos.




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The brush I was referring to was having the measurements, not the items themselves I'm afraid.

Design length 0.875"

Acceptable on rebuild 0.65"

Minimum 0.50"

There is a contradiction between the EMER & ISPL as to which is made by CAV & which by Simms.

Assuming yours is the Simms the above measurements apply & spare brushes are LV6/MT4/SS/L71960

VAOS parts are easy to translate compared to a COSA that is NSN codified. The Simms part no. is L71960

A fudge that I have used is when the brushes have got too worn. Just choose a similar or larger sized brush from a domestic appliance repair shop or autojumble stall, then file it to shape. Put on some disposable gloves as this will get very messy, place some medium/fine sandpaper on a flat surface then rub the new brush back & forth to get the dimension you need to place in front of what remains of your old brush.

Bear in mind that the end of the old brush will have worn concavely as it rubs on the commutator. So file this flat to maximise contact with your new brush addition. Load you new brush addition & then the original brush & spring mechanism on top of that. Not good engineering I know but it has worked very well for me many times.

If you do remove your generator I would be very interested to see the maker's plate to confirm it is Simms & a Mk 2/1 so I can see whether error is in the EMER or ISPL. The aluminium plate on mine was badly corroded & was illegible.


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Kevin as far as shows go this is my calendar so far.

30 April Caldicot Castle

20-21 May Builth Wells

27-29 May Denmead Portsmouth

18-18 June Evesham

30 June- July Capel

4-5 Aug South Cerney Glos

25-27 Aug Tanks & Trucks Coventryish

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Kevin sorry not any longer just a few bits that have surfaced from odd boxes.

You need:

Speedometer cable assembly 4ft, LV6/MT1/SM/Y76300/48, FV157945/22, 6680-99-816-7033

Not to be confused with tacho cable 4ft 2in

Speedo cable has end which is round & one spline, tacho cable end is square.

I do have the slow running control cable & speed adjusting knob with the centre press & rotate to finely adjust revs. But you might free it up with release oil. Press centre of button to allow rapid pull of knob. Release button & rotate knob for fine control of speed.



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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi, pleased to report that generator is now charging. Clive you were correct to suspect the control panel. After testing the generator and all cable continuities, decided to remove the generator panel to have a better look. Stripped and made sure everything that should move did and on stripping the regulators noticed that the points which i thought i had cleaned are actual sanded to a nice white oxidised finish and not to the metal. Cleaned and reassembled, it now works and charges. I'd taken Clive's advise and purchased the more detailed engineering manual and so was able to better check various elements however IMG_20230410_163025.thumb.jpg.3c5990ec6618806a41531b3870ba0ef5.jpgI believe it was the the regulator points that were the main issue.




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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Clive, please see attached plate on the generator. I managed to pick up a machete, not yet the part you gave me but it certainly looks the part and even has 1/3 paint same green/blue as the engine. It is marked part KE8277 1952 Martindale made in England. I will keep a look out for the part you gave me but this fits nice for now. Image attached. If you are still attending Caldicot Castle i would like to meet and pickup some of the parts. I'll PM you my wish list(: Many thanks Kevin



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