Manylandrovers

Nightmare to get off the manifold....!!

Checked the condenser. It semed fine but was replaced anyway. I’m beginning to think it’s an advance issue. The rotor arm seems slack for about 5 degrees before the springs take up the extension. Might be ? I’ve changed the rotor arm over and checked the limiter doesn’t fly out to easily.

Thanks David. I will check the condenser again- it was NOS out of the box and checked it with my Megger before I fitted it. The carb was dripping fuel from the spindle seal as well. It is probably a number of issues...

All, I have recently acquired a Mk2/3 ferret, reconverted back to Mk1 - so no turret. Just front and rear plates and rubbber strips around the hatchway. It had sat in a hedge for about 17 years covered in brambles ( it was the second or two that Nick Mead advertised) After a couple of afternoons cleaning points, ensuring leads had continuity etc and jury rigging a fuel supply it runs having burnt off the copious quantities of oil I threw down the bores to lubricate them. (My endoscope showed that they were dry but not rusty amazingly) the engine fired up, but would only idle. It wouldn’t pick up and accelerate. I imagine that after all this time the carb will need cleaning and maybe a few jets unblocking - no surprises there but I wonder if the lack of response to the throttle might be something else - can anyone suggest anything? I’ve got to put the ballast resistors in because they have been removed- I have some spare fortunately. Much work needs to be done - all four corners need the brakes freeing off. And amongst other things needs an exhaust! Thoughts welcomed. Andrew

Many thanks Clive!

Hi, can anyone please send or post a picture of the head nut tightening sequence for a B80? And advise on the right torque setting? ive got a container of nuts from a b60 that are machined top and bottom into a circular rim are these suitable or should I stick with the standard hexagon with a slight chamfer of the top edge? thanks in anticipation. A

Hi all, I have the a/m trailer for sale on EBay, if any one is interested. Item number 133439195899. Andrew

John, I have a pair of rough wings, and loads of 24v kit. What are you after? My stuff is mainly 90amp stuff but have the odd 40amp item. I'm located 10 mins from Stonehenge. Andrew

I was looking at said schedule this afternoon and I agree with you. I have to say I think the triangular units with 9 small circular reflectors look good, but don’t appear to fit (the mounting holes are identical as it turns out). As I said above the right hand bracket seems to have holes for a reflector both above and below the light units. Does anyone have any nice old pics of said trailer that demonstrate how reflectors were originally fitted?

Hi Tim, thanks. Using the original holes the triangular ones (which I have a set of) interfere with the metal rims of the tail and indicator lights, hence my question. I suppose I could redrill...

Ah ok. That’s worth knowing. Thanks.

Ps found an old tin of DBG paint which I brush painted (badly) on the existing primer. I ran out so have ordered a tin. I suspect this will expand to the whole trailer....

This is what I have decided. I’d prefer to see the triangular shaped units with small circular reflectors within, but these larger circular items fit much better.

Many thanks

Don’t suppose you happen to know what application RE 16272 was fitted to?

Can anyone advise on the correct format for rear (ie red ) reflectors for my trailer. It is of the type where all the outriggers carry reflectors whether white, amber or red. I have recently bought a replacement number plate (left hand) outrigger. It has holes in it in a triangular pattern, although that doesn’t tell me which type of reflector was used, as the triangular reflector (9 x small circular reflectors) has the same bolt pattern as the large circular reflectors (c4 inch diameter). The location of the holes suggests that the triangular reflector will interfere with the stop light and indicator light rims, which means the large circular reflector seems the logical choice, mounted below, on both sides? In addition the right hand outrigger has a triangular top (where on the left it’s the number plate bracket) and existing holes that suggests something triangular above the circular reflectors as previously described above. A triangular reflector above a circular reflector? Perhaps originally it was the T reflector showing a trailer? Any pictures gratefully received. Andrew

I cannibalised a veh in a similar state in Beds last year. Took every useful component off it. The rad and the oil cooler were subsequently stolen from my location. The engine was sold to me as complete but no crank appeared and the conrods had no caps, tanks to the buffoon who sold me the lot and the block has been bored out to what seems to be B61 spec, certainly much bigger than the pistons that came with it. No idea why he did that.

I’ve got a lovely 20 cwt Brockhouse (I think) trailer and some spares but I think I’ll have to move it all on if I can’t find a body for it.

I rescued it up from somewhere in Co Durham, after cleaning the points and jury rigging a fuel supply it fired up, after god knows how many years of standing outside. Sounds great.

Mine. - very poor example in Wiltshire, runs and moves under its own steam but the body is rotten as a pear.

Yuk. Hated those - in the RAC we only wear crew guards thank god, although one accepts the reduced protection.

Helmet or crew guard, out of interest?

Ah, brilliant. Thank you Richard. Anyone know who does a cleaning service?

It’s number stamped on the carb body. The number below it is 3879 (serial number?). the other carb I have is RE 16434, serial number 9505.

Can anyone verify what the carb number RE 14549 might have been used for?