ruxy

The Series 3 CL , is a civvy BASIC with selections from the Optional Parts book , one is a ammeter.  I don't know why it was picked because the S3 Lightweight 12 volt model does without.

It is a old thread I did not see ,,

I would expect ploughman is not expecting what he is getting.  His new belt / tension is probably powering up the  Lucas 16ACR sooner.    As such it is not a 'Ignition warning lamp'  -  it is a "no-charge warning lamp" , subtle difference , the 16ACR is a 'machine sensed'.  The  RED  jewel lamp will / should  only just 'glow' when the Ignition is switched on (be aware in strong sunlight) , and engine stopped or  running very slowly as soon as the engine drives the alternator , then the aux. diodes produce a supply to the rotor (excitation)  - then the lamp is cancelled / extinguished  - since there is then no voltage difference across it  .   IIRC cancelled is between 500rpm & 800 rpm (tick-over speed depending on age / type of 2.1/4 pet. specifically.

The harness multi-plug is a PITA , it has a wire spring clip , can fly off on a bump, comes off the frame easily and lost - so many are just pushed in.  ploughman may have knocked it - I would push & re-fit a couple of times to clean the blades for good contact.  I would only fit a ACR for rivet counting (bigger than a 16) ,  in preference I normally fit a Prestolite  alternative ,,

I will take some photographs tomorrow.   I should have a pair of  12" 1960's era.  I would say - the better one would have   V Steel ,  BAHCO , Sweden  (I think the reverse side has Invented by Bahco year ???  ), just as correct probably the earlier version -  A B  BAHCO ,Stockholm  .

Bahco also produced identical to yours for Britool (with taper handle) , I well remember the first Britool one I purchased a more pocket sized 8" at Liverpool 1970 when I started as a seagoing junior engineer. I chose the chrome rather than phosphated - only to have it nicked by the lascars.  Prior to that I had Bahco 4" , 6"  , 10"  & 12"  -   tended to use only the 6"  & 10" .   Then a local factor in early 1970's started stocking  PROTO  , I considered them better , one was a 4"  "click-stop"  version - useless , been in a M&W toolmakers cabinet almost 50 years unused  !

CES  kit  ,  to be pedantic - your Bahco shifter is far too modern by abt. 10 years, you need a earlier version with a parallel handle  LoL

The operator must have good sinus.

Not so amusing as how they established the £cost of a new Eastenders TV set  (a real and full exhibited MV museum would be far cheaper), I must add - I have never watched such productions , so must be totally uncultivated.

Yes - I would agree the Tilley bonnet & hood roof canvas are it seems a different colour , as the WAAF uniform is not middle-east / warm climate , then I assume this paint can't be sand colour therefor most probably yellow.

Looking with my x5 glass , above the drivers position the tilt toof canvas , the paint seems to be flaking off - again - I would expect that if the dressing has not washed off and the duck weathered.

The  S1  Land Rover photograph is very interesting and good that  49AA79 can be dated  (later my 1/4 ton book by Warehouse Publications should reveal) & for w.b.  - it seems not as shorty as a 80".

On 12/1/2018 at 4:31 PM, ted angus said:

A Standard Tilly of Coastal Command 

 

If ever a example is needed how basic history can be lost after 75 years , then this topic is proof.  I can't comment more - can any more be gleaned from this Tilly photograph , location date , wing markings   ?      Again it may be just highway control , no follow me on the rear.   I do know public highways were used for access to / from  aircraft dispersal sites ,  so would expect the full role..  If it was not 'follow me'  , then this is another uncertain role.  BUMP.

FV  possibly does originate for WD  ,   Ex-MOD vehicles always seemed to me to have a restricted number of key Nos. to aid problems with lost keys.

Remember the days garages had boards on walls with all the common 'pre-cuts'  + blanks for cutting on-the-job  ?    I am certain I have come across FV keys for plain classic cars , so did a search  - FV101 to FV225 ,  so seems there was a call and still is.

https://www.key2code.co.uk/classic-car-keys.html#/

£21,000  -  asking , IMHO well OTT

The solid tyres do seem WW1 era. lorry.

Don't forget that a carriage as old as this probably has timber solebars etc. etc. 

The coachwork original timber , well molested - what state is the remainder.

At the age - I doubt it will be a bit late for Rentokill

I would far rather buy  £21,000 of Nissen type sheets  !   What value a lorry frame & possibly a pair of axles & frame  ?

That pm.com  has a few good points , inc. the use of a  IR heat temp. detection gun.  Better than the older soap trick that may be iffy  ?   ,  the point being is that to succeed without damage - you need to enlarge the  'grain size'  to max. within the heat affected zone of the torch  (I think I would be using a 12mm propane nozzle and plumbers  soldering mats to envelope .  The nearer to the melting point - the bigger the grain and therefore the less risk.  From the application ,  vibration stress over many years and possibility of a knock on what is 'decoration' with a purpose,  LM6 is what I would guess at / select , I do have a materials book going back to my 1960's studies and it has always stood me in good stead - I need to find it.  Still good to use in. conj. with the internet.  So as not to have a rax-up - I don't think I would dare approach within 100C of the guestimate melting point.

Look at the evidence , impact it did not fracture .  Therefore  IMHO it is a grade of 'malleable' aluminium - someting like LM6 .   The problem is now localised stress that will need relieving with a low temp flame - then I would follow the already suggested method of timber blocks and G clamps.  Due to the value  and potential firther  £ loss - I would suggest you spend some time with the forming blocks , a series such that the re-alignment is gradually progressive.

In my youth I had a Champ for a very short period , unfortunately I could not afford the petrol as my only road going vehicle.   I have always appreciated that the WD were trying to give the best quality vehicle as as Jeep replacement.  The cruciform chassis and body design - superb,  gearbox & questions in H of P  - all arguable.   Obviously past / present owners opinions will differ.   The sound on bar-grips is truly unforgetable ,  I love the finalized body design but would not wish a tail-gate version or the  'value engineered'  civvy version.

All I can say is I was offered a Champ that had to be sold (I was viewing a property in 1986) . Dry barn stored , low mileage genuine , mint rexine upholstery, duck-boards hardly worn  -  £2000 asking but it would have robbed me of a needed £2000 cash input to next property.

Abt.  1998 I became aware of one  VGC  (not quite as good) stored under dust in a contractors garage,  I believe it will still be there unmoved.  I would love to get into negotiations  £   -  but I have no idea of the ball-park.

18 minutes ago, ploughman said:

Bottled water price looks a bit on the dear side.

Sainsbugs will sell you a 12 multipack for the price of 1 bottle.

Probably drove it up mountains & charged premium £ to grockles

People seem to have forgotton a 'motor spirit'    Discol  (from the Scottish business - Distillers Co. Ltd  who manufactured alcohol potal and industrial from grain).  It was high octane and needed no lead.  I recall it sold  at the pumps into the 1970's as  "Cleveland Discol"   where it was blended 50:50 with petrol  (IIRC petrol being a  'motor spirit'  trade name originating from Carless Capel & Leonard , a follow up from their 'Launch Spirit'  ).     It seems Cleveland was bought oil by Esso  (Exxon  - one of the seven sisters) and sales of Discol terminated.   It seems to me there are other ways of obtaining a suitable spirit for petrol engines that does not go in the ethanol direction.   However , I am a retired engineer , my younger son is the chemist  ,,

Adhesive makers etc.  often have a disclaimer on their user instructions.

However ,  from a first emergency repair = coin bonded with Araldite,  I have used the original 'slow-setting'  for Rover 'aux'  petrol tank repairs Araldite (Araldite "Precision" - I think it is still called  +  the equiv. by Evo-Stik (Control)  that is repositionable for 2 hours.  Some of the chemical metals are fuel resistant too , but I can't see them having any advantage for a small repair / reinforcement like this.     I would just tip the tank on end and pool some Araldite over the corroded area  &  1/4" of surrounding sound area, wait abt. 1.1/2 hours until it is tacky and try and add a bit more freshish mix (so it does not run, probably 1 hour old ) then try and create a blob over the original application to get a bit of thickness or try the coin trick.

btw. Clean / degrease with meths first (100% alcohol & dries fast)

On that score - Prestwick would need to be investigated , however it was probably not directly under  RAF control  -  owners / contractors to the RAF  =  Scottish Aviation.   Of greater need would be the Satellites used for aircraft storage and used by ferry pilots, again not directly under RAF control -  Beaverbrook's  MAP had ownership.  Often just a single grass strip , aircraft hidden under trees & nets.

RAF during WW2 did in fact 'taxi' under prop. aircraft on public highways to what are at best described as  "scatter fields".   Obviously they would have used escort / control vehicles.

The photograph well substantiated to me, although a bit subjective , despite no photograph actually showing  "Follow-me"  .  The fact of a group photograph of  'Flying Control staff' posed alongside their equipment, caravan and Tilly.  However I do think this Follow-me Tilly is a rare example and probably to meet a local need.  The book page - far better evidence.

                   However my RAF interest is field (concrete) fortifications and any landing field buildings.  Of particular interest are Satellite and ELG's in Northern England and Southern Scotland - very little remaining and hardly documented , what is - often not accurate.   RAF vehicles  -  just my general interest in British military.

Several weeks ago , I made a  "field"  inspection and was very fortunate to interview and question the land owner , bit of a recalcitrant (in her 80's , so young girl during WW2).  However I received much first hand info. that goes against what is stated on the internet and within books.  I had the wrong approach , however new info. to be given to somebody who has a superior interview technique, so he starts with a better lead-in.

15 hours ago, Zuffen said:

When I did my tank I just put a plastic bag over the fill tube and a hose clamp around it to keep the slosh in.

I don't inspect my tank.

If I walk into the garage and find a 100 litres of fuel on the floor I then know I have a problem.

These aux. top-fill tanks normally hole at the floor due to corrosion trapped between the cradle, sometimes at front/rear ends due to corrosion from trapped mud near mountings.  A visual through the filler hole and you can see the start of perforation (leak location), best to get your hand in and feel for roughness - of a pin-prick.    I suppose just coat the bottom half of tank internally is sufficient.   I have had most problems with early construction tanks with cracked top solder seam.  Bakers fluid + plumbers reel solder,  you need lots of torch  heat & be fast with it , any delay and you heat & move the lap seam under.

I have never actually used a slosh-tank sealant,  pros/cons I suppose,  corrosion could carry on to  'lace'  then lacking structural integrity , but the bladder if well done should hold - how to you periodically thorough examine  ?

With a normal fuel tank I understand you introduce the correct quantity for thickness and then roll it around for even coating  ??   

I suppose with a Rover Aux. tank - that should be a easy stage of the operation, I would use a old damaged tank cap (white nylon peg broken off).  Don't use a good (and £ costly cap). .   I  am not aware of any genuine Solihull or MOD written explanation about these caps.   Following a incident (military - Army) 25 + years ago. approx. there were instructions issued to convert to the latest (current) square section cap RUBBER type seal (that replaced a crumb cork seal).  My understanding is this instruction applicable just to latest design cap,  not penultimate, certainly not earlier (I am aware of at least 4 or 5 types going back to S1 tank top-fill). Differing by style of 'prongs' for retention.  Using sandwich cork composite gaskets.

Latest - cap with riveted inner plate & annular vent ring.  I sort of worked out that the spring loaded steel ball  within the brass case is in fact  a type of  "clack" valve , that prevents fuel loss in event of a roll-over. The white nylon 'peg' for years I considered some device to stop the actual filler neck tube from rattling , in fact it incorporates  a fine mesh filter (moulded with the plastic/nylon) , from memory - I think it also had another internal spring valve.  However I don't wish to type more on these matters, ISTR the only safe way to install a earlier cap sandwich material seal is to soak it in water 24 hrs. Plus.

So - you would not wish to encapsulate these safety devices within any slosh-sealer or prevent the breather cap, thus making a pressure cap (there is in fact a pressure cap, listed as a FFR vehicle item - why I don't know). Why aux. tank caps have effectively been more or less OSA - who knows  ??

10 hours ago, LarryH57 said:

The bracket on the rear of the tank is just damaged by a botched removal and has no rot nor any fumes. I like the idea of drilling and bolting the metal strip as no welding would be required.

In that case - you should be able to B&D it and have it stronger than originally.

Well - yes  , defo vehicle with STOP illuminated box , so can only assume the rear is  "Follow-me"  ,  looks like Larry has a good lead & much more research starting ,,

2 minutes ago, ploughman said:

Film clip not available to me on that link.

Would not run for me also.  However - I was more interested in the written comments.  

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/airfixtributeforum/raf-bomber-command-vehicle-colours-some-film-t37029.html

1 hour ago, LarryH57 said:

Ruxy,

Have you any thoughts on fixing the tank with a broken rear attachment plate?

The rear attachment spl. shoulder bolt & rubber buffer , the hole is through the cradle.  If it is just local rot. It just needs a reinforcement strip tack-welded on the underside. In fact I think a bit of 1/8" x 1" strip could be fitted loose in the inverted channel , better still you could drill & bolt it in position - if the bulk of crade back flange is  still intact. .  I recently purchased such a 1m length of black strip from B&Q , I think it was only £2 to £3.

Most welders for that external welding , would at least require the tank water washed internal, at that location that is all I would do & leave the cap off to vent.

More than local rot  (they are a mud/water trap) - a proper welded repair to replace the full back-end of cradle should be possible.