ruxy

Pity this thread degenerated in to a lack of respect to alternative viewpoints . Not that I would endorse damage to revetments and another persons "River bank management & flood defences" OR new frontiers to the worst types of the green laning movement. Good entertainment for the troops - YES , possibly the next time the Stolly should have a cargo of concrete railway sleepers and tree trunks and give a demonstration of the loader crane and how the task can be done with no river bank damage or winch assistance.

On the run -in to the beach it was decided to mount a Scorpion and Scimitar side by side in the bows of the landing craft ready to blast at any enemy on the beach when the bow ramp was lowered, thus giving the LCU formidable fire power. The Scorpion mounts a 76mm L23 gun, and the Scimitar has a 30mm Rarden cannon. One of HMS Fearless's LCUs was lost during the Falklands War. Foxtrot Four, skippered by Colour Sergeant Brian Johnston and his crew of three Royal Marines and two naval rating were killed on 8th of June when Foxtrot Four was bombed and sunk by Argentine aircraft in Choiseul Sound. Johnstone was awarded the Queens Gallantry Medal for his bravery in rescuing survivors from HMS Antelope earlier in the campaign.

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Go to britains-small wars.com . Falklands . Stand-by to the Beach.

Unfortunately I am having difficulty posting the direct link I would think most of info. on the britains-small wars website will be correct.

Well - if you recall the Falklands Conflict and the news blackout with 24 hour delay , like WW2 most of the newsreel would possibly be a re-enactment. I once spent a bit of time looking at these newsreels looking for Land Rovers to try and decipher any VRM's. The winner writes the history in any case - so who knows , I doubt if the camera team went in with what may have been an oppsed beach landing ?

Funny that. As i have actually seen pics of 101,s and LtWts pictured on the Island during the conflict. There is actually film footage of Bedfords and 109,s being brought ashore at San Carlos bay.

About 50 sec. in - is that a Bedford ready to go ?

I have witnessed what used to be called "single trip shackles" brand marked with SWL , submitted for proof test (2 x SWL) and they failed on the tensile rig at 1/4 of the marked SWL. You can't beat genuine Crosby or equiv.

To come under Loler Regs. - lifting within a certain degree of vertical (not loading out by winching) , and then arguably business for hire or reward , I forget been retired 5 years now. AFAIK - I still have the UK record for re-testing of Demag & Gottwald mobile struts - well over 840 tonne on the hook

Within the space of a couple of min. the Stolly was :-

1. Rolling Load

2. Dead weight

3. Bruce anchor

in various combinations of

Allan Allard produced a good book on the subject , first published 1982. The 1984 re-print is a good book on quality paper. The 1986 book has greater content but on cheaper paper.

Unfortunately very little specifically on the 2.1/4 petrol conversion , a bit more on their 2.1/4 diesel conversion (brings performance in line with standard petrol). Only the black & white photograph of 23 FM 26 as already shown in this thread - and then DIY endgame when Rover bolted a turbo on the 12J and all the Jap imports.

You are a lot nearer to the RM Museum than I am - perhaps you will beat me there to follow the line of research , I would like to make a appointment to review photographs. I have a note somewhere , info. from Mark Cook suggesting the files to request in advance.

I have more or less drawn a blank on in service photographs to date off the internet , this is what is now required for the radiator blinds.

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Pro-Tech Precicion (C.J. Williams) advised (letter 8th May 1992) that they did not convert my Rover, heat exchanger (Ser. 03616) was supplied August 1988 , this vehicle to have been converted by the Army after 1988.

This style of radiator blind is by MOD , the drawing they supplied is for the hook type (my truck has never had grille hooks fitted) :-

Enclosed is a typical Radiator Grille Blind drawing, this is the only type supplied as additional equipment. The modified tilt and flaps are not of C.J. Williams supply.

There is possibility of a few dp schemes :-

Arctic white

white/black

black/green

black/green/white (apparently - paint half the green white for 1/3,1/3,1/3

Have a look at the details on Dave's (Disco2003) website.

http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/WinterisedA.html#New

My blind of same style, has a metal strip approx. 1" x 1/8" section across the dumb-irons - pop-riveted in situ. along with the canvas straps & brass buckles to furl it up when not in use.

Probably similar stowage , but could be used with other styles if high & low level hooks had been fitted on the grille-panel , it could then possibly have been used to hook the tension springs on.

I think there was a S3 with similar dimensions to the S2A blind , alternatively the other S3 blind could be used , this was used on civvy style bodywork (there was a couple of threadbar / rods for high/low blind positions - these were secured with hex. nuts between the inner wings).

UK nearside rear wheel-arch

I would have considered that a tractor , limber and gun - retained all pre-existing rights , however only a Court of Law has final shout.

It is always wise to keep up to date with what DfT thinking and opinion is (well this is as recent as 08/3/2010).

Dear *.*. *****,

Thank you for your enquiry.

I have attached our factsheet on towing with relation to that part of your enquiry.

Regarding the specifics of the ‘Cardiff Bay Road Train’, Under normal circumstances, tourist land trains (such as the one used in Cardiff Bay) cannot legally be used on public roads as they contravene certain aspects of the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations (C&U) - in particular, regulation 83 which limits the number of trailers vehicles are permitted to draw. However, land trains are permitted to operate for low speed, sightseeing operations provided the operator has obtained a Vehicle Special Order (or License) issued by the Secretary of State for Transport under section 44 of the Road Traffic Act 1998. If granted, the Vehicle Special Order authorises exceptions from certain aspects of the C&U Regulations subject to terms and conditions specified on the Order.

I hope this is helpful. If you have any further questions please get back to me.

The Department cannot give an authoritative interpretation of the law; that is a matter for the courts.

Yours sincerely

Martin Rogers

DfT – Transport Technology and Standards

I have 43 GF 07 off Contract WV.11706 as you will know , so the build spec. is known.

One thing you could do as a line of research is contact C.J. Williams Ltd at Aldershot , they manufactured the winterized kits and they did retain records of the VRM of trucks they converted. They have records of heat exchanger serial numbers supplied to MOD (not part of kit) - although of no use to you. Always good to know who did the conversion.

The lining fabric they advised me was "Plastazote" by Zote Foams, this was wrong although years earlier it may have been correct. What you have will be "Hardura" - good - there are two or 3 manufacturers , different thicknesses , I have samples and no problem getting.

The flooring mats on winterized are extra thick , ribbed switchboard type matting bonded to sheet "Sorbo" type rubber sheet about 5/8" thick - all no problem from Arco (as with the Dunlop Gacord 1" dia. rubber hose for heat exchanger). The tailgate rubber may be identical to switchboard matting in thickness (you don't buy it with the certification - that costs loads).

I am not up on markings , at least on RM you get more than Army.

You need to be brutal about this - you need a good donor for all the other difficult (and expensive) bits you need. You may be able to get a new bulkhead for about £600 , or a good one to re-build footwells (bits from Les Crome) - yours is well past it.

You need a vent panel , a copy could easy cost you £300 - you are better off with the real thing.

I know you can still get a good L'wt in bulkhead and ventpanel but in need of a new chassis and body all good for about £1000 - just a mater of patience. AND YOU TAKE A CHANCE ON ALL THE OTHER BITS THAT ARE OF VALUE.

In your case - you could get a good heater, two good genuine doors (copies are poor) , all good electrical 24 volt parts - you may find your main harness is damaged but get one for free (price a new one).

You will end up with another set of alloy panels - start unbolting and you will find dissimilar metal corrosion - you may soon be searching for better wings etc.

This is where the brutal bit enters , don't get sentimental about breaking Lightweights - they are not so rare, bide your time - you may get a winterized with cream crackered chassis and get all the winterized bits foc.

To be honest - I would not try and save this truck without scrapping another.

Obviously RM 3CDO , a search will probably reveal disposed of by private auctioneers at Aston Down or Kinross during 1992 when the RM received blocks of 90". There were a few scattered in other regiments , the RAF had quite a few but mainly as hard-top , it seems loads of variations across all arms.

Once in private ownership the winterized stuff seemed to soon be removed. Few left complete but there are a few around with kits disposed off in 1992 - kits are unobtainium so you will have to collect bit by bit, actually new steel rear battery boxes for FFR versions still keep turning up on eBay !!

The correct heat exchanger - watch eBay - they do come up.

I don't know of a FFR L'wt winterized fully kitted still but there are quite a few still around , obviously waste of time raising to full spec. unless you are going to get a Unitary Kit & a amount of radio gear (you could go for Larkspur but plenty of cheap Clansman would also be in keeping for truck age).

So THIS ONE - for a "diamond" - realistically you need a FFR donor not hacked & sound in the important tinware (they do exist) BUT - I would go for one with a knackered chassis (minimum est. £1000). new chassis (about £750) but at least you know it is sound.

A truck this age would have a underwing toolbox (underbonned type from about 1979/80).

There were in fact 4 qty. slightly differing lower tailgates (yours originally would have had the No. Plate on a hinged flap).

Mud-flaps are genuine Nil Rover No. (they have a NATO number though) - John Richards has some (expensive for what they are £30+)

That type of radiator blind is rare (2nd I have seen) - the bar across the dumb-irons - uncertain.

All in all - quite and expensive project by time you get to the tilt having all the trimmings , .

Used up to late 1970'S

A Malpassi "Filter King" (or good copy) would give you a extra final filter and pressure regulator - solve everything.

It can be difficult , the engine pre-fix determines the build but cylinder heads get changed or machined to change the CR.

There are many casting numbers - in particular late 2A & S3 (S3 gets very complex for casting numbers - they may be the same as the part number at that time but often not), designates slight design changes or change of foundry (gives treaceability). Often the cylinder head casting number can identify what it was originally but this does not always follow with late S2A and S3 heads where the engines were fitted with a 36IV carburettor.

==========

The "general Rules"

Look at the center head bolt between the carburetor and the valve cover. The surface of the head under that bolt may look like the other head bolt mounting surfaces or it may be a raised flat surface about 2.5 cm (1 inch) wide that goes between the valve cover and the edge of the head.

If the mounting surface under this head bolt looks like the surface under the other head bolts, you have an earlyish 7:1 head.

If you have the raised rectangular surface look carefully to see if there is a number stamped on that surface. If there is no number or a 7 stamped there then you have a late 7:1 head.

If there is an 8 stamped there (This 8 will be about 3/4" high and most often looks like two zeros that are stamped to make an 8) then you have an 8:1 head.

Heads with the raised flat surface that have an 8 stamped on it are genuine 8:1 heads. However there are many copies of cylinder heads from all over the world , one of the better ones that I have seen is from Brazil - IIRC the manufacturers name is Roniceli but this is not marked. I would have to check a head - ISTR they follow the same 8 brand procedure. Some of the worst copy cylinder heads - try to copy a genuine head exactly BUT they are rough - very rough - often originating in Turkey, Iraq or India.

The above does not follow for very late S3 or 90" / 110" heads - there is no 8 branded - you need to look for four very small branded numbers (approx. 3mm high) to identify the head CR and if hard seats were fitted (in the case of 90" / 110").

Mark cook is 1617 3100 and a moderator on the Ex-MLRA forum with his own Section ref.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Half-Ton-Military-Land-Rover/dp/1903706009

Earlier trucks on WV Contracts (Wheeled Vehicle) - the Reg. Nos. normally follow the chassis Nos. on a full block.

Later FVE (prefix) contracts have a / and follow with a Item No. Normally I am not so accurate with these because it turned out such as 109" Item numbers can be mixed in with Lightweight Item numbers all on the same contract No.

Mark has done plenty of research and has access to printed off Solihull Dispatch records.

All I go on is trucks I have purchased - e.g. I have 1976 Chassis. 95104109A and it is 43GF07 , that makes you 167 trucks away (the numbers work like on a speedo head)

Contract WV.11706

1976

Code 1625.0778

I make the VRM to be 44GF74 (my maths) - but best to get Mark Cook to confirm.

Have you tried clamping all the flex hoses then see if the pedal goes straight down to the floor and releasing one at a time trying the brakes in between ?

Even with pukka hose clamps - you will damage many modern hoses as they have a built up construction cover sheath, braided ply and a nylon tube fluid liner (that you will crush damage).

Have you measured the drum dia. (in theory you have very little permissible wear). There are many makes of cheap shoes that are illfitting - even in a new brake drum. Frankly - there are new rubbish drums and shoes being sold as well as hydraulics. It could be that you need more fluid displacement that than the master cylinder can supply on a single stroke ?

Because of this , at this stage - I would put a small G clamp on each brake slave cylinder to reduce the volume to minimum (rather than hard adjust the shoes outwards on to worn drum surface). If you still can't get a solid pedal on the first stroke - then it is the master cylinder.

Shuttle valves are normally not a problem (they don't do much) - the overhaul kit for yours is Rover No. AAU1714 , would have been best if you had at least re-sealed.

Does the brake test illuminate as early warning you have moved the spool ? If you do just release the other end pressure and tap the pedal until centralized (bleeding by foot - pump very slow)

You should have master cylinder 569671 (with 10" dia. drums front & rear) , I was just wondering if you had managed to couple up a early S3 109" No. 90577520 MC.

You should have 1.1/4" bore front & 1" bore rear slave cyls.

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Worth checking pedal height & wear in pedal box, but would have to be well out to do this.

With new linings , even on worn drums - you should easy get a firm pedal.

With the pedal going straight through - I still think it is a master cylinder problem.

Normally with 10" and the so called dreaded front 11" - I bleed with a assistant on the pedal but sometimes use a Gunsons Easybleed. Normally if you are taking air in somewhere - then a pressure test with your full weight on the pedal will show a fluid leak there.

I think I would be getting a new genuine master cylinder.

What is the truck VRM ?

Is the master cylinder a genuine Lucas Girling (TRW) ?

Any ID on the master cylinder box it was supplied in ?

Have you changed any pipework at the master cylinder ?