Hair Bear

These were spotted at auction today in Eversley.  Two of the 20' flat racks in the first pic were marked 'SA3/Y' and 'SA4/Y'. The only ID I could find on the tank was 'Gloster-Faro'. The thought of having to use the pump on top of the tank was depressing.

Thanks for the link, lots to think about while I wait for it's arrival. Managed to get the To Do list down to one page but that was partly by making the font smaller!

Would that be the plug on the actuator?

I like the idea of tail open, hazards on, does this need to be done at kwik-fit?

Hi, had a spare few minutes today so stuck a fuse in slot 11. 'transfer neutral' came up on the dash but put it in gear and it still moved so it would appear the selector motor/mechanism is suspect.

No problem, I won't be back to it before the weekend so no harm done.

I'm glad you mentioned a jet wash. Are there any areas underneath that are best avoided?

The nearest this one has come to offroading is occasional trips across grass fields or tackling the farm drive.

I guess a quick test would be to put a fuse in 71, then if it doesn't drive the motor is working so the fault is the neutral switch - or is that too simple?

That's interesting. Thanks for that.

Well, here we are, a month later and I still haven't got it home yet! I am in the process of compiling a list of things that will want / need doing and associated possible costs. Ooerr.

While waiting to get it home I have been running it  around the fields and looking for problems and one that has me thinking is the 'Low Range' doesn't work. I'm told by the previous owner that it has never worked and the fault was the  selector motor was probably stuck. When you press the low range button, it lights up, the dash shows 'engage neutral', then after a few seconds the switch light goes out. Having looked around the net, that would suggest the neutral switch is duff. I've tried holding the stick hard to left or right, or engaging reverse, which was suggested on one site but no luck. So  before I change the switch, I'm thinking that bridging the wires on the switch would at least eliminate that symptom - so what would the dash say then if the motor was still stuck? If it all works ok is there a click, whirr, clunk, or fanfare? If transfer then sticks in neutral is there a manual way of selecting anything just to make it move? I'm not going to be looking at much underneath it at it's current location though as I'd rather wait and work on a paved surface than in several inches of, well, let's call it mud!

That's interesting. I only caught the last 20 mins or so yesterday and when it came to the credits it ran through who the main actors were, and filmed at 'wherever' studio. That was it. No production crews or locations listed.

Thanks for that.

Here's to dredging up an old thread.

Watched the film today and I was wondering if anyone would know whether any of the recconaisance film from after the attack was stock flooding footage or original?

To quote Snoopy... Rats!

T'was just an idle thought. Oddly enough, the radio and the key worked fine after two years of no battery.

Thanks for the link to the club, I'll have to investigate.

Having reread the last few posts, is a flat or low battery enough to cause an srs fault? I know it's not the same class of machine but I have a solar battery keeper on my quad which works very well and wondering if once I have the problem sorted a similar approach would be advisable.

Thanks for the offer but I'm in Aldershot so at least 3 hours away.

It'll have to take a back seat for a while but I'm sure it won't be long before I have more daft questions.

Again, thanks everyone.

Rob.

Not made a lot of progress apart from aquiring a RAVE manual on disc and learning that there's a lot to learn!:wow:

I have found somewhere local that will read the codes for £25 +vat, didn't think that was bad. Now, remembering I have no real clue about this sort of thing, how does it work? If I take it to have the codes read and there is a fault found, once I've changed the offending part do I have to go back and have the fault cleared for another fee or will it clear itself?

Sorry if this is basic stuff but this is all black magic to me.

On the up side, took wifey for a spin around the fields and got a cautious approval - phew!:red:

All on hold now until I get it trailered home and get stuck into it.

Thanks for all the help.

Most large quarry dumpers are diesel/elecric, there are some that can run on overhead pantograps to get mor power on steep haul roads.

Some years ago Volvo did have a prototype 40 tonner that had a pantograph for tesing purposes, don't know what the outcome was. They also had a gas turbine / electric 7'5 tonner.

Fairly sure the same combination seen today in the company of a GMC on the side of the A21.

Would that mean that under 'Right To Roam' almost any land is public access?

Thanks guys. I'll have to find someone local who is willing to come and read the codes as it's not on the road. Still, I'm not in any great hurry and I still need to give it a thorough clean before I dare to ask anyone to look at it.

Probably won't get back to it for a week or so but I'll update you when I do.

Rob.

Edited to add... Lowfat it correct, this is the yellow box behind the lights variety.

Thanks. Something else to fiddle with!

Sneaked off yesterday afternoon to have a faff about with it. Found some rust on the osr wheel arch by the bottom of the door, rear valence has detached behind the wheels both sides, and a broken tailgate strap. Spent a while playing a game of 'dashboard says',so bit by bit went though and...

reverse light bulb

fog light bulb

bonnet open switch

washer level

So having got rid of all that I'm down to two messages and two lights. I have an ABS light on when started but goes out as you move off, and the SRS light. The messages are Air Bag Fault and drivers window not set.

Air bag and SRS are I guess the same fault.

Are the headlight wash/wipe part of the mot?

Trouble is, I only went out to buy some eggs, wifey hasn't seen it yet...

Had a bash along the door bottoms and they are good. Now I can't get the boot open. It opened top and bottom ok last week but the button was stiff. I didn't notice when I closed it that it didn't pop out so now there isn't much to push. So another little job to do before I dare to take it home and face the music.

Going slightly off topic, I do know a fair bit of this one's history so I'm quite confident it's never had red in it. So the question is, if you were to buy an off farm (or any second hand diesel) vehicle, how can you be sure it's not had red in it? If there's a risk that it has, how do you get any trace of red out of it? Last time I was pulled up and checked they didn't want to dip the tank, they sampled the bleed screw on the injector pump.

Thanks one and all for your comments. I'm glad you generally seem to like them. Loads of things to look at and consider before doing anything else, I think this could be an interesting if steep learning curve as I'm more used to working with old tractors that are 'pre-battery'.

One thing I was told about this one is, as has been mentioned already, that the battery goes flat quickly. This one has the BMW engine, and from what I've seen so far is the battery space doesn't look very big for what it maybe expected to do. From what I can tell the suspension has 3 settings - up-down-normal - so parking it right up or right down, would that stop it self leveling when parked?

The hvac display lights up but apparently doesn't do much controlling. A new one was included with the following instructions 'Good luck changing that!'. Hohum.

I'll post some pics once I've scraped all the greenery off it.

Thanks again, Rob.

I have just acquired a 1995 2.5 diesel P38 Range Rover. It appears to be in fairly good original condition but has been standing for several years. Put a battery on it and it started as if it'd only been left overnight, runs, drives, starts and stops as it should, air suspension all ok, interior is ok, so far, so good.

Known faults are a sticky switch in a seatbelt latch which brings up the SRS light on the dash, the air-con control panel is iffy, and the motor that engages low range has seized.

None of this is insurmountable, but as I'm working on an almost non existant budget are there any pitfalls to look out for before I start wasting too much time on it? Are there any known rot points or specific items that would suggest it is beyond repair? I've not owned anything from Solihull before, or any other 4x4 for that matter, it was a bit of an unplanned addition and I'm now looking at it and wavering between 'what have I done' and 'where do I start'!

I think my plan of attack will be to give it a thorough clean, evict countless multi legged squatters, chuck it in for an mot, see what it fails on, and go from there.

If all goes well and it can be brought back to life I don't expect it to be on the road before next summer, can anyone recommend a cheap insurer for something like this, maybe a limited mileage or occasional use policy or something of that type?

All input appreciated...

Rob.

I never realized how many different shapes and sizes of halftracks they used. At one point there you can just see the back of a Kettenkrad (sp!) but what are the huge halftracks behind it?

May 1945, the German troops meet in Czechoslovakia after the capitulation to US troops

Thank you.