Ron

There is any amount of stuff to download if you google around. This has BTH info. http://php-junder.rhcloud.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/1956_TRW.pdf Ron

Always best to get the cases really hot in the oven first (When Janet is out!) The bearings will almost fall in/out then. This G3 case of mine needed some (TIG) welding as you can see, and the threads remade. So it should be possible to repair your case, especially if it's not completely punched out. Ron

I only ever had one dealing with Alpha, who were going to grind the crank and make the big ends for a Harley XA engine for me. After nine months of phoning and false promises and a threat to come up and camp on their doorstep, I finally got my flywheels back untouched. Definitely not a firm I'd want to deal with again. Bike belongs to a friend. Ron

This is interesting. I have the 3rd Div patch on one of my motorcycles (without the red backing circle). Several books I have on vehicle markings show the 3rd Div sign as a triangle only. As this plate from 'British Soldier' Vol2. Also all the illustrations show the Div patch on the left side, which I think was the general rule. I'd like to know for sure before I contact 'Axholm' for a dinner plate stencil to paint a red background. Ron

Rik I had completely missed that Oct 40 demand date even though I had already mentioned the earlier census numbers and I even glanced through previous contracts. I was blinkered by the 1944 build period. Better still if you have more info regarding the census number for this machine. I based my calculations on it being the 512th machine according the frame number sequence and then as if they were numbered in sequence off the production line. But I guess the factory ledgers were lost during the bombing? Ron

I was too hasty last night and got my calculations wrong.... It's a bit complicated! Frame TL 50936 is from contract C8886 which was demanded in Oct 44. The original contract was for 3000 machines. the frame numbers being TL50418 to TL 50431 and TL 50439 to Tl53417. So I make it that there are 7 machines missing in the early stages of the contract so a total of only 2993. (maybe the missing bikes were supplied to the Admiralty?) The census numbers were C4854180 - C4857179 I make TL 50936 the 512th bike from this contract and calculate the census number as C4854691. Perhaps you'd like to play with the numbers to confirm? There should be a date stamp on the top of your saddle tube eg:- T.E.C. 10.44. (Triumph Engineering Co Oct 1944) The correct waterslide transfers are available from Marcia here:- http://www.classictransfers.co.uk/transfers/triumph-6512-112x32mm-3-75-each/ My own 3HW is from the previous contract in 44 and I wanted something different in the collection, so I prepared it in desert trim. Strangely your later contract has lower census numbers? Ron PS. your terms "Gas Tank" and "Fenders" leads me to think you're in the US?

Yes Triumph on both sides and a quick calculation is C4854691. But I'll double check and get back tomorrow with more info as I'm just off to see a 'Queen' tribute band. Ron

I have several original pictures, which all show just the C number in the same location on both sides of the petrol tank. It's extremely rare for any of us to know what unit our bikes served with, so any such markings would be 'artistic licence'. It was the general rule that unit markings were not applied during the invasion, so as not to advice the enemy who was where, although the arm of service patch might have been applied to both sides of the tank or to the front mudguard, depending on the room available or the unit involved. Earlier in the war, it was normal practice to display the divisional patch on one side of a vehicle (usually the left) and the arm of service patch on the other side. Even so, some guys like to portray their vehicle in the markings of a unit that they are interested in or as a mark of respect for someone who served with it.........Which then requires it's own research! If you privide your frame number, we can work out the correct C number for you. Ron

Me too Ian. Cheers Ron

Tim did you buy one of Brian Tillin's 3HW front brake rods? Can't remember if it was you. If not, I'll email you his phone number. He's a Triumph singles guy, and might be able to help you with the info you need. Ron

I'm still waiting for my much better condition clutch lever blade that I acquired to come back from the platers (problems with the nickel vat!!??) So I can't button up the clutch cover until I've tested and adjusted it. In the mean time I've got my dating letter and posted off my application for historic registration. Fingers crossed, I haven't forgotten something! Ron

My genuine 9x9 tent is for sale as I have a van now. It's been fitted with a heavy duty zip in place of the original toggles at the opening, and reproofed for it's last outing. Located in Poole but maybe I can get it moved around via the old boys network. £300. (bike not included) tel 07771 602236 or PM me. Ron Now sold!

I think nearly all vehicles had the axle flood lamp facility. As Lex said the Lucas flood lamps are hard to find, but you can still often find the Butler ones NOS, like this one for my Tilly. I think this Lucas tail lamp might have come from Adrian?? They are usually coupled by a Bakelite junction box and change over switch, which again still seem available NOS. Ron

Yep good choice. Ron

The original tyre size was 325x19, although you can usually fit 350x19 but depending on make you might start getting close to mudguard stays etc. (Makers don't all seem to comply to the same size criteria?) You could do a lot worse than 'Vintage Tyres' I think it's free delivery? The Dunlop K70 is probably the best tyre, But the Ensign road tyre has more of a block pattern, or the Mitas are quite good and both are cheaper than the K70. I've found the K70 wears quite quickly which is probably a sacrifice for grip. I've done many miles of the cheap Mitas, and heard good reports on the Ensign's. The 350x19 Cheng Shin is an almost identical tread pattern to the K70 and I prefer them as they seem to last longer. I am currently running my M20 and BSA/Indian Special on them. http://www.vintagetyres.com/search?qs=%5B325-19%5D http://www.vintagetyres.com/search?qs=%5B350-19%5D Ron

I had a NOS carb body with jet block and float bowl donated to me. I've rebuilt it with all new parts and made up a fuel pipe which I've plated myself by tinning it with solder. Hours of fun!!?? I've also made up the oil pipes which run from the combined oil/petrol tank. More fun trying to stretch my new centre stand spring to fit over its locating pegs. Ron

I don't know for sure. I would first try 'Ace Classics' They seem to do odd stuff for Girder models. Otherwise it's a case of find the suitable size clip and then get the slot milled in. Ron

There is a 'P' clip each side on the rear tube of the forks. Typical to Triumph, it has a slot in it. The previous models with Triumph forks had a riveted on central fixing under the headlamp, but this was also backed up with the 'P' clips on the WD models. But these bikes had the clip on the front tube of the forks. Ron

Sean that is an assumption that myself and others have made. But as you say, "it's a guess" just wondering if someone might know for sure. Ron

Does anyone know for sure what the markings mean on the front mudguards of these James ML's (Looks like 1A) and similar markings on Flying Flea tanks (Looks like C1A) Ron

I picked up my pre war silencer from Armours who had kindly remade the inlet spout for me and removed the previously mounted hanging bracket. Some lining up, bending, welding and fettling and the silencer position is near as damn it to the factory picture. Ron

What was that Ferg? You're buying the burgers? I'll be there!! Get there between 8-9 for the £10 early bird entry. We're usually there at 8 and head straight for the first bacon butty bar. Ron

Well it's Tony Pearson who is a forum member at http://www.axholmesigns.co.uk/StoreClosed.htm For some reason his website says they are temporarily closed. But he still accepts emails enquiries and has sent me stencils no problem. Ron

And the infamous "6 spring clutch" now fitted. JJ made me a clutch cable from a pattern, but it's not quite right so will pick up the replacement at Kempton on Saturday. Best to try and get the clutch sorted before I put all those bloody screws in the chain case!! Ron

I presume you must have dealt with Steve Surbey by now? http://www.amcclassicspares.com/ He'll be at Kempton. I'm quite sure the cams are case hardened and probably not worth the cost of getting them ground and hardened as you can buy new ones. Steve sells standard and high lift cams as fitted to the pre war and early G3's. It's worth fitting the HL cams combined with a 276 carb to increase performance as the G3L's were starved a bit due to war economy. They often had a decompression plate fitted under the barrel too. The HL cams involve removing a little bit of material inside the timing case to allow the followers to drop down lower. Very easily done in a few minutes with a Dremmel. The original crankpins were "two Part" in other words the part that the rollers run on is pressed onto the bit that locates into the flywheels. Someone decided that this could be made in one piece. Makes sense! BUT they were made with a dead square at the step between between the two radius's and this became a fracture point and it was quite common for these pins to break. The cure was to make them with a radius in that corner and subsequently you have to make a corresponding chamfer in your flywheels. I fitted HL cams to my G3 but went back to standards due to a rattle that I thought was due to the new cams. Turned out it was just some end float rattle on one of my rocker shafts. By now I'd passed the HL cams onto a mate who fitted them in his G3L.....That bike really fly's. Even if it does smoke a lot!! You obviously have engineering skills and I wouldn't have enough knowledge to advice about mixing and machining parts to make up your big end. For me I would just fit a complete new one. (avoiding those faulty type) My G3 has a needle roller bearing fitted that was made up by a guy who made special big ends for racing and such. (now retired). Ron