Ron
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Posts posted by Ron
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Lucky find with the twist grip. For memory the whole thing should be over 7" long. You can buy the grips from Jeff the rubber man. Mention my name jeffalanhunter@aol.com
#79 is the race that should be pressed into your chainwheel. The rollers don't sit in a groove, they sit up against the rim of the top hat part 81 and place them all round with the use of grease, before carfefully putting 81 inside 79 so that none tip.
The rollers are cheap as chips but it's important to fit the correct ones. They are 'NOT' as often advertised 1/4 x 1/4 but are in fact about 12 thou shorter on the length........Length is not everything!!
Ron
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To my knowledge engines with plunger type oil pumps (Triumph, Ariel etc) Are not usually that prone to wet sumping. The first and easiest thing to check is the non return ball valve. Bottom left of the timing cover is a hex plug, bihind which is a 7/32" ball (#S70-7) and spring. https://www.draganfly.co.uk/triumph-shop/twin-cylinder/product/37748-ball-bearing-7-32/category_pathway-2
The ball might not be seating properly! After removal, squirt out the seat with say WD40 with the red straw attached and or an air line. Install a new ball, in case the original is misshappen, give the new ball a light sharp tap with a thin drift to create a good seat in the ally case.
Check the oil level in your primary case, as excesive oil in the crankcase will leak through the main beaings into your clutch housing .......and ultimately, onto the floor. Ron
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They had the long grips like an Ariel W/NG. That is a 6" grip on the throttle and a 7" grip on the clutch side. So far I have the 7" clutch side grips on my 3SW (rubber) and 3HW (canvas) but haven't found the 7" twist grips yet, except for the one on my W/NG.
Ariel and Triumph had a lot of similarities. Ron
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I've never bothered. I send or give any at Kempton or Shepton to http://www.chronometricspeedos.co.uk/
Ron
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Which side of your car is your steering wheel? There's only one right and left to a vehicle Ron☺️
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The fork spindles are 7/16" BSCyc (26tpi) on the right side and 3/8" BSC on the left.
Ron
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Assuming you have a standard speedo with a screw thread and not the Jeager pattern and that your mounting point is in the proper place by the side of the headlamp?
If you order one from JJ Cables. Tell them that it's 21 1/2" from the bottom of the speedo thread to the top of the speedo drive thread. You might want to ask them to add the period outer rubber sheath.
Mention my name if you want.
Ron Pier
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Cracking on Steve! But only 13 odd weeks left to get it running and some miles on before Normandy!
BTW, the primary case would normally have been painted.
Ron
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This one's from my WD/CO manual which is exactly the same. You should be able to save it from here or PM me if you want it emailed. Ron
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The wiring diagram is in the electrical section of your workshop manual. Ron
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Funny you should mention that Steve. The rear stands on these are not the most robust. The stand on my 5SW was too vertical when in the down position. Such that if you parked it on any surface that was facing downhill, I think the bike could have rolled off the stand on its own.
So last week I jacked up the rear of the bike (with the aid of ratchet straps around the foot rests to hold it to the bench) and I removed the silencer. With my angle grinder, I gound a bit off the wedged shape tops to the stand that butt up against the frame stops untill the stand sits as you see it here. It's at least 1/2" further forward than it was. I'll see how it goes but I might take a bit more off.......The whole anoying process took about an hour. Ron
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Well from the evidence Brian Tillin has provided me. His own very original civy 1939 Tiger 70 has gearbox number TE29661 and apart from the civy models being churned out, there was then mass production for the war effort (all models shared the same gearbox case untill 1948).
Brian has evidence that bikes leaving the Coventry factory in 1940 had numbers in the TE4**** range and as my 3SW has box number TE40455 I'm happy to assume it's the original box.
It doesn't take a genious to work out the minimum amount of WD bikes that were built after mine (around 40,000) and add that to my gearbox number would give a figure around TE 80455. And that doesn't take into account spare gearboxes, or the losses during the bombing and any others that we don't know about.
I can't understand these 1945-47 dates given by "experts" for gearboxes with TE77*** and TE80*** numbers?
Ron
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Probably too busy texting his mates to be bothered to look?
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Graham you say Ace don't have any steering damper knobs? But they have some on ebay. I clicked as though to buy one and it asked me to 'pay now'?? (it says 3 left, worth a try)
Otherwise there's these cheap ones from India that don't appear to have the metal insert at the base.
Ron
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Graham the handlebar size has nothing to do with the nipples. From memory the brake and clutch lever nipples are usually 3/8" but I have seen smaller 5/16"? Just measure the nipple holes with a drill bit before ordering anything.
Ron
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The fieldstand will bend quite easily with heat from a welding torch. I've straightened and bent allsorts that way.
You can buy all the cables off JJ Cables on 01926 651470 (mention my name if you want) They will have all the spec and correct nipples and adjusters etc.
If however a cable arrives with some discrepency to it's length or free length, they will alter it fee of charge. Ron
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Cracking on Steve! Is that field stand bent though? I see a tree out side with a forked trunk, Sometimes ideal for straigtening stuff😊
BTW this is the pre-war/war-time gearbox inspection cap in case you want to look for one? Ron
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I never buy a purpose made loom.........(is there such a thing that is actually correct?)
I use reasonably acurate black rubber covered cable which I buy from Lex. The wiring diagram is easy to follow and just run each wire in turn.
There are only 3-4 wires going to the headlamp and the only part that is rubber sheathed are these wires from beneath the tank to the headlamp. The best stuff to use is a short length of cycle inner tube, like the thin ones used on racing bikes.
I use insulating tape to hold the wires to the tank tube. Anywhere that shows I use the rubber cable ties......Or sometimes the thin ally ones as used on a 3HW.
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Yep the cast or forged steel of an original should be easy to weld.........Must have had some abusive field standing!
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From memory the thread in the barrel is 5/16" Whit but you'd have to check. If so I found these which are probably near enough,
Or Ask Brian to make you some. Ron
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OK senior moment! I've edited the number! No TE is just Triumph Engineering. Ron
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On 2/11/2019 at 6:42 PM, HotBed said:
Can anyone help me with dating the gearbox, the number is TE 77214
TIA
Well the number must be some sort of serial number.. I have the following 3SW= TE 40455. 5SW= TE 84992 3HW= TE 87312.
Ron
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Hi Richard. The pictures (I have another shot, slightly different angle) are actually taken at the Triumph factory. You can actually see a row of civy bikes further back. But those are indeed RAOC guys in attendance. O&M quote 300 in that contract being delivered to Chilwell at 50 per week.
The second digit on the saddle is a bit fuzzy, but I agree 46 Div (Sherwood Forest Oak). I wonder how many made it back after the BEF retreat or have survived in France or ended up as a Luftwaffe step up? Ron
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When I zoom in on that picture, I can see the clamp on regulator, the field stand clamp and the mudguard behind which is exactly what I have.
The tyres are most likely 'Dunlop Universals' Ron
1940 Triumph 3SW Restoration
in Motorcycles
Posted
The modern friction plates (superseding cork) are Surflex plates # 57-1362 I think. Only three required. I fitted an extra steel plate under the clutch cover on my 5SW as I was trying to ellimimate clutch slip whilst kicking through compression. In the end it was too much oil in the chaincase. The books says 3/4 pint, which I think might be errononious. Other Triumph guys I speak to only put enough for the chain to touch, more like 1/3rd pint. I've used ATF on recomendation. Ron