Ron

That's what I would do.  Ron

Pawel that is an Indian made version of the post war MCR2 regulator. (I've never known one to work for more than a few weeks)

You need the shorter MCR1 with frame tube mounts. Jan can make the conversion parts to clamp on frame if you want.  

There are very good electronic internals on the market that will easily fit in both types

 http://dynamoregulators.com/dvr2.php

Ron

It's surprising just how well the WD/C performs against the WD/CO. According to the performance figures in this document, there's little difference between them . The C is a bit lighter but heavier on fuel.  Ron

Is it Chris Willis doing the rebuild? The wheel rim needs to be centered in between the fork legs. So you could give him the forks or a sketch.  Ron

Is this stuff any good Lex? It has writing which I guess can be rubbed off where it shows with Scotch Brite. Ron

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicone-Flexible-Temperature-Insulated-Electron/dp/B095YCZF6N

Pawel you already know that your headlamp is post war,  so don't use that wiring as a reference.  4mm black rubber as in Lex's pictures.  Ron

It says it's 2.5 mm Lex. Ron

2.5 mm is too thin. See if you can find 4 mm.  Ron

Cleaning out the float bowel might not be enough. There are tiny drillings that can get bunged up and need prodding out. The jet block needs to come out and clear out the drilling in the carb throat with fine wire and also the corresponding drillings in the jet block. Remove and blow out the main and needle jets and all other orifices. 

The accompanying picture show the drilling in the throat.  Ron 

As Lex said. A piece of inner tube around the left side headstock to the headlamp. The regulator is fitted to the frame tube on the left below the saddle. The tail lamp wire goes down the right side of the rear frame. 

Just follow the wiring diagram with maybe some help from the way I do it.  Ron

This is what I wrote as I can't understand anyone who buys a ready made loom.  Ron

Since there has been discussion about “wiring” I thought I’d right up a tutorial on how “I” do it. (I’ve done about 3 dozen over the years, starting with readymade looms. Which to my mind are a waste of time and money, with wrong connectors which are often in the wrong place or not needed at all)   The original cable was black rubber with just colour tags on the ends. (For these I use small lengths of different colours of shrink wrap) I’ve been fortunate for many years to be able to buy silicon rubber cable that replicates the original (But it seems hard to find lately.) Ordinary black plastic cable can be used with the bits that show emeried or scotched to remove the gloss.  I always start with the regulator which has four terminals held in with hollow tube connecters ( the terminals are marked F A D E) . Before I mount the regulator to the frame, I connect three lengths to F D and E long enough to reach the magdyno area and one length to A, long enough to reach to the headlamp. Ultimately F&D are connected to the corresponding terminals on the dynamo and the E (Earth) wire is connected to the grub screw at the bottom of the mag. A further shorter wire is connected to the grub screw and goes back to your battery Neg (earth) terminal. You can clearly see how it goes in this B&W RE picture. Although lots of guys prefer to make the earth points by nut and bolt to a convenient part of the frame.  Once the regulator is mounted and it’s wires connected. I then concentrate on the headlamp. I run four wires only to the headlamp through about 18” of rubber sheath (Old bicycle inner tube) The long “A” wire from the regulator which goes to one side of the ammeter, then another similar length from the other side of the ammeter back to the battery Poss terminal. I run an earth wire from the headlamp which can be connected directly to the battery or a convenient earth point on the frame. The final long wire goes from the headlamp down the right side of the bike to the tail lamp.  The wiring diagrams will usually show the live feed for the horn coming from the headlamp, but I think it’s congested enough, so run it directly from the battery. I also slightly modify the wiring by taking the Regulator “A” wire directly to the ammeter then a wire from that terminal on the ammeter back to 3 on the light switch. That way I am only trying to squeeze two wires instead of three into the awkward grub screw terminal.  The wiring diagram shows how all the wires are connected to the light switch and bulbs. The horn is earthed via the horn push on the right side of the handlebar. Finally a brake light switch can also be added to the left side of the bike.  It’s not rocket surgery!! I'm open to questions and debate. Ron 

Stuart. I found the census number for my 42 British Willys by contacting Gerard (I think). He started his research on this forum I believe but seems to have switched to FB. https://www.britishjeep.com/about-us.html 

I got the post war key card from Kew which showed it was one of the last to be demobbed in 1959.

Regards Ron

Good call. The good thing about Triumph's, they kept the same gearbox into the 60's. 

Ha Ha! There's your main problem. Did you buy UK parts or Indian made?

Yes always use the valve lifter to get over compression. It's surprises me how many guys and girls I meet who just don't get it🥴 Ron

I recently rebuilt this gearbox for my WB30 from a box of parts. Apart from bearings,  shims, gaskets, nuts and screws, there are no new parts. Every now and then it baulks at the top of its stroke. I've found that usualy pulling in the clutch lever releives it enough to clear. After which when I'm kicking it over, I avoid the lever returning right to the top.  I've also been running up my Triumph 5SW the last few days and that jambed on one ocasion. I had to put it in gear and turn the back wheel . Obviously easier if you're ambidextrous enough to operate the valve lifter at the same time. The joys of old clunkers. Ron

Probably wear in the quadrant teeth and or pinion (T26) possibly exasperated if there's wear in the bushes. It's not uncommon. Sometimes if the kickstart balks at the top, it can be freed by turning the back wheel a few inches in gear. 

But it really needs a strip to assess properly. Ron 

What is the kickstart issue? Did I miss something?  Ron

If that's the stamping under the saddle. It will say TEC Month and Year  ( TEC = Triumph Engineering Co)

A WD/C center stand complete  with the banana toggles and swivel bushes. £280 plus post at cost.  Ron

With a modern type 35W headlamp bulb (originally 24W) and probably a 21/5w stop tail bulb the E3 dynamo would struggle to keep up with headlamp on. But we now have the benefit of  LED bulbs. 

I've used this guy for quality LED bulbs including a straightforward fit stop/tail  https://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/stoptail-lamp-bulbs-shop.php

The only electronic regulator I would recommend is the DVR2 which unlike others, will still cut in when the battery voltage drops low. http://dynamoregulators.com/dvr2.php

I have no association with either firm.   Ron

Well more steps backwards! Since a nice man sold me the correct coil spring head, I've decided to fit it in place of the one I modified from hairpin springs. I've stripped the old valve guides out and  drilled out and re-tapped a couple of rocker lid bolts. I'll take it for sand blasting tomorrow. All the new parts that I used in the first head (valves, guides, springs etc) will go into the latest head. 

It only took me less than 3 hours to remove the tank and saddle and strip the head, barrel, carb etc off. It will be much longer getting back to where I was though.    Ron

The RAF roundel was also painted on army vehicles for aircraft recognition. Later replaced by the Allied star.  Ron 

Google translate will do it, otherwise Jan is probably the man.  Ron

That's a very nice touch Lex. Great that we can still get these detail items. Ron

Whilst the tank is temporarily sat on the bike...and at eye level. I thought it was a good opportunity to to dress it up with logos and stencils.  Ron