demon

Mark have you stripped the chassis to the bare metal or clean it up?

If it was Le tout Terrain I have been there a couple of times now. The first was to buy a trailer and he had exactly what he said on the phone. If you deal with the son (he's about 25) he speak pretty good English. The second time we were on the Bethune trip and one of the jeeps suffered a knackered dynamo. We dropped in to find the 3 guys very helpful in searching for a 6 volt dynamo and and testing it once fitted. One of the guys also bought a trailer whilst there...a little expensive as his stock was low but very original. The cheap jeep is a myth when it comes to buying one from someone who know's what they're talking about. Also if it's cheap you'll end up spending loads on the missing parts and the resto. Like commander said you need a flat bed loaded with 4 or more to make it worth the trip.

Why would you want to selling your MB for a M201?? It beats me :? I know the M201 was a better jeep, better electrics, water proof ignition, strong more powerful engine, strenghten transfer box etc etc. But surely an orignial wartime MB would the one to have? I'm only saying this as this is my opionion as a pruist.

The thing is with Milweb if the seller doesn't notify the website that they have sold the item what every it is the advert if left on there.Because of this you the buyer/browser doesn't know that it may be sold. I presume the seller is getting so many e mails etc that they just ingnore them. All the avert that are on Milweb automatically get put in too Classic Military Vehicles so I presume it's the same story.

For MB365678 which is Spetember 1944 you should have a set is Zinc plates. Contact Robert du Ruyter his repro data plates are outstanding, he'll also stamp them with the correct stamps and info. http://www.xs4all.nl/~rdrnl/dataplates.htm

I think you are a little confused here or I'm just confusing you. I have painted the whole jeep in either MIX or MAT. The first jeep I did was completly MIX1 this jeep is painted MAT1.

Hi Mark I spray everything you get a better coverage and finish. I use Tony Sudd's MAT 1 and MIX 1 paint.... the MAT 1 is very flat and rough to touch and ages very quickly, the MIX 1 gives a more satin finish a little easier to keep clean.

Yes HWOF stands for 'Hotckiss Willys Overland France'

If it has W-O-F then it's Hotchkiss if it's ''Puralator'' (I thinks that's how you spell it!!) or ''Fram'' then it's wartime. I'll dig out some pictures and post them.

The oil Filter canister should be black.. Here's a couple of picture of mine.....

Hi John check this section on registrations , it'll be a little clearer. http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Jeep_man/mark1.htm

The aerial cover is a BG-108 made from black rubber not canvas. I have a NOS one.

Hi John going by your ITM chassis number it looks like your jeep was rebuilt in 1950 and given it's new chassis number ITM0017939. Do you have a MALT number aswell? If you have this plate you'll be able to date it's rebuild. My 43MB was rebuilt in 1956 and issued an ITM number then rebuilt again in 1968 and a MALT(31568) plate was welded on. Unfortunatley by MB lost it's orginal number. I've dated my chassis from the changes that occured during production. Try Andy Carters jeep site it's full of info on the rebuild factories http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Jeep_man/PAGE5.HTM Does the French document give the Army registration number? Normally 7 digits *** ****. Mine was 285 0385 this will give you more information about your jeep, i.e. when it was rebuilt what part of the army it served with etc.

Hi Bowie have you got some pictures you could post? Do you know much about the French data on your jeep?

If the wheel is a Sheller it'll date up to around late 43.

Is that a La Maltournee jeep. Looks like there was a small data plate on the top left corner of your glove box. Do you have this plate?

It's perfectly ok to use normal OD paint with a spray gun, heat proof is not needed for the engine block.

I've just got an email back from Frank the Viking about those tyres. They were first made by Askim gummivare fabrikk in Norway, and later the same pattern was made by Vredestein. They are not available in Norway anymore :cry: .

I had my rank and insignia taken off by the moderator on the gee at my request. If you are able to put them on this site I would like you to remove them from my post too please. Personally I just don't like them.

No but I can ring Frank later and find out.....

I don't think anyone makes a radial bar grip. The Norweigns use a good tyre for their jeeps, I drove on them in the snow when I was over there, they perform really well.

Ron Fitzpatrick set up http://www.g503.com a few years ago, it's the best technical forum I have come accross. I made lots of friends across Europe, USA, Australia and Norway..... Jack found me there and emailed me about this site.

Hi Lloyd as far as I know the green Sheller steering wheel was fitted only to GPW's from mid 42 to Dec 42 under contract F-2. Thd black plastic Sheller was fitted to both MB's and GPW's, Willy's contract W-4. Both Ford and Willys had the exposed spoke wheel by the end of 43.

I've just been looking at the pictures of your jeep, and it's either had a jerry can bracket and a trailer socket fitted as a field modification or a post war add on. You should have a re-enforcing plate for the holder to bolt to or it may just rip the bolts out of the body. This is the plate. Also if you look at the pictures of mine you'll also see that the reflectors have been move down to the later position on the bottom corners. Is the body original or repro? Is the steering wheel a Sheller of a Hotchkiss? If it's a Sheller it's correct for a 42GPW.

Hi Dodgey here's a picture of Darryl D's before and after Ford engine bay. Ford's had grey engines and gear boxes with an OD transfer case, Willys were all OD. Tony Sudds is your man for the FOrd grey.