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Diana and Jackie

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Posts posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. There should be continuity between the copper armature segments, with everything disconnect, ie the brushes lifted, there should not be continuity between the armature shaft and copper segments.  follow the field windings and see if there's continuity of the field coils,

    Common failures are sticking brushes  i.e not making contact with the armature and loss of residual magnetism.

    A mechanic who knows what they are doing should be a bit more precise than "it's U/S"



  2. Thanks to Richard I've just replaced the two outer seals on my CVRT Gearbox, there is also a slotted nut and behind that a washer, which has two seals, a rubber O ring and a flat rubber washer, both can also be a source of a leak as well as a loose slotted nut. Theses seals are also set in a removable housing held by machine screws, again the face of the housing can also be a source of a leak, I uses RTV silicon to seal the housing,

    If you replace the seals use Viton seals, also worth doing the two seals in related to the clutch, one inside the clutch and the other on the gearbox.



  3. I recently wanted to renew a CVRT gearbox lubrication hose that was unavailable. After contacting Hoseman (Paul) on this forum he found a suitable replacement fitting and made up the new hose for me at a very reasonable cost.

    I know he has now bought all the spare 1 1/8 UNF hose ends in the UK, so if you want a CVRT hose remaking or renewed or a hose for any other vehcile this is the person you need to contact.






  4.  A picture of the output coupling and castle lock ring. Subsequently the castle lock ring was found to be loose, underneath the washer was an O ring and a rubber washer, who's purpose is to stop oil leaking out of the box. If the castle lock ring is loose then oil is going to leak past the washer..

    I managed to remove the output coupling, the oil seal had gone hard, another cause of a leak.


  5. Hi Richard,

    I think I am getting my inner and outer seals confused. The smaller seal I believe can be removed with a Laser Tools part 6179 castle lock ring tool (for a Kawasaki motorcycle).. The removal of castle lock ring which has already been butchered on my gearbox, allows access to deal with the smaller seal, it's the larger seal that presents the problem.

    At least knowing the box has to be vertical is a start 🙂

    Tomorrow I will post a scan of relevant part of the box so that you may be able to enlighten us further !

    Thanks again for your invaluable input .....


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