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Diana and Jackie

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Posts posted by Diana and Jackie

  1. The switch is pneumatic.

    In  the event that  the oil fix doesn't work a new  leather seal can be made from a disc of 1.2 mm thick  leather, after drilling out the rivet in the centre of the piston and replacing with a small screw and nut.

    Nominally its a 10 second delay but that may not be on both right and left. - it's a bit of a hit/miss affair regarding timing.

    Diana

  2. Beat me by minutes !

    Diana

     

    2 minutes ago, andym said:

    Odyssey batteries are made by Enersys, the same people who make the Hawker UK6TNMF, so I think we can safely say they know what they are doing.  One word of warning, they are very sensitive to charging voltage, which must not exceed 15V for a single battery or 30V for a pair of batteries in series.  If your batteries are dying, check the charging voltage before doing anything else.

    Andy

     

  3. Why don't you have the service manual?

    It's the first thing anyone buying a MV should get after buying the vehicle.

    If you don't have the manual (provided you can get one), and there are plenty available for the Fox, then you will have a problem looking after it and resolving problems.

    • Like 2
  4. 30 minutes ago, andym said:

    What she said!

    Isn't that white one just a filler/strain relief anyway?  A headset only uses six cores.

     

    Andy

    The core is indeed a filler and not a conductor. No matter what a new lead is quicker, and easier than messing about trying to repair this

    Diana

  5. Superglue...Bostik, Evostik breakdown with age. They were probably vulcanised on.

    Diana

     

    Oh dear. Sent the fuel tank off for cleaning and they've broken 3 of the 4 mounting brackets. These consist of two metal plates separated by a rubber bush that is glued on, and those have become unstuck.

     

    Does anyone know if the rubber bush can somehow be glued back on, and if so, with what (or by whom)?

     

    I might be able to source some if all else fails, but not sure if they're the correct hands.

     

    Or any other suggestions for alternative way to mount the tank - I must say I'm not entirely sure that resilient rubber mountings are really necessary, given the small amount of driving done. Thought of putting a bolt through to hold the pieces together and maybe that would work?

     

    Thanks

    James

  6. Have you cleaned and checked the carburettor as well as and especially the condition of the diaphragms?

     

    Diana

     

     

     

     

    Thank you; knowing where to source parts is a good start. 🙂

     

    Now, has anybody experienced anything like the misfire I described? The last time I dealt with an engine running roughly like this, the problem was exhaust gases leaking into the intake side but I can't see how that would be possible with the design of the B series. Any thoughts?

  7. Option B

     

    Diana

     

    Attempting to remove rear plate from my ferret so I gain access to the radiator (belts & hose replacement). There are two bolts on the lower (sloping) side of the armor that are oposite one another with boogered up nuts. The nuts turn inside their cages along with the bolt when I place a socket on them. I tried jamming a flat head screw driver inside the cage to hold the nut in place but no dice, nuts still turn w/ bolt. Here's what I was thinking:

     

     

     

    A) I haven't removed the bolts across the top (vertical face)of the plate as I was saving those for last (don't want the plate to fall on me). If I remove those maybe the weight of the plate itself would put enough pressure onto the errant nuts to keep them from rotating and I could remove the bolts. Would have to figure out something to keep the plate from falling on me, though.

     

    B) Leaving the upper bolts in place, take the angle grinder to the two non compliant bolts and cut 'em off. With the plate removed, I could then deal with the problem nuts in their cages (which are on the hull).

     

    What does the hive mind think? Anyone else on here ever have this problem?

     

    Matt

  8. Andrew.. Diana is not a chap!

     

    Diana

     

     

    Hi chaps, thanks. Fuel is definitely filling the float chamber, but not sure where it is then going to. The carb looks in very good nick, the engine had done very few miles since its rebuild. I think I might need to have a look at the pumps on each side, and finally, looking down the choke Venturi, I assume the choke is off with the small butterfly flap open? This suggests to me that the choke rod has to be pushed on rather than pulled on?

    Regards

    Andrew

  9. The carburettor on the J60 is fundamentally the same as that on a Daimler Ferret, albeit a slightly larger version with a different design for the altitude compensation.

     

    If you look on the Daimler Ferret website there should be enough info there to determine how the carburetor works and how to strip it.

     

    Problems arise from dirt in the jets and body as well as two internal gauze filters, Air Leaks through worn shafts, faulty seals and gaskets and stiff or punctured diaphragms caused be old age as well as incorrect idling and mixture adjustment.

     

    Its also possible that the accelerator pump linkage is seized.

     

    Diana

     

     

     

     

     

    Dear All, if I may high jack this old thread. In getting my j60 back on the road following a broken exhaust valve ( and piston), I remember having a problem trying to start it. It only coughed when I poured a little of petrol down the throats, so I suspect a blocked jet. Being a solex (non Marcus) I'm assuming that with the float chambers full, if you open the throttle you should also get a jet of petrol squirted into the throat, like a landrovers carb does. Am I right? If the main jet is blocked could someone point out which one it is? I have no manuals. Grateful for some help, I'm still after 2 Pistons (std size) as none of the businesses seem willing to sell anything less than a full set.

    regard

    Andrew

  10. We've renewed our cover for insurance and breakdown with Adrian Flux.

     

    I queried the issue of non renewal of breakdown and in respect of this particular thread.

     

    You seem to have been misinformed, breakdown cover is still available with a policy from Adrian Flux, nothing has changed

     

    D&J

     

     

    Hi all , just been speaking to Flux insurance and they told me that the breakdown cover option (that only cost £30) has been done away with .

     

    Where does everyone else get cover from ?

     

    With a humber pig and a green goddess it was worth it for £30 each ,

     

    Jamie

  11. Hi

     

    All the info you will ever need is on Andy's website, including manuals and parts suppliers.

     

    http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/

     

    Cant help on the servo as our Ferret doesn't have one- despite which now the braking system has been overhauled the stopping distance for a 4 ton vehicle isn't too bad at all.

     

    D&J

     

     

    Im now suspecting the brake vacuum servo, hard pedal, no change in brake operation once engine is started, I still think there is sticky brake on one side that is a different issue. I'll have to crack open the manuals and see what can be done to test and service the servo, but if it is bad does anyone have a source for spares? If ebay (I checked), link?

     

    Thanks in advance.

  12. Hi,

     

    Its likely that every wheel cylinder and the master cylinder will need overhauling.

     

    Go to each wheel cylinder and see if you can turn the brake bleed nipple. If you can't then the cylinder will need replacing as the bleed nipple is seized and if forced will likely break off. The brake nipples and cylinders are exactly the same on every wheel station, other parts may not be.

     

    Personally, after a similar experience, I would remove each cylinder (if serviceable) and get them lined with stainless steel. The same with the master cylinder. Renew the rubber seals in all cylinders - Oh and don't forget the flexible brake pipes, any signs of perishing renew them.

     

    Damage or deterioration may be hidden by paint as was the case with our Ferret when one pipe broke when I twisted it!

     

    New master cylinders can be obtained off ebay for around £60.

     

    It's also worth taking off the brake drums to check for any sign of oil contamination (which may occur if the wheel gearbox was overfilled as in our case) and or wear. At the same time LIGHTLY lubricate the adjuster mechanism.

     

     

    My suspicion is that after 25 years you are going to be doing a lot of work to get it roadworthy.

     

    D&J

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    I have acquired a Ferret that has been relatively stationary for the past 25 years. The owner would pull it out of its shed once a month to run the engine otherwise it really wasn't driven (~350 miles in 25 years).

     

    The brake pedal is currently very "hard" and stuck in the "up" position.

     

    I've read the following regarding unsticking brakes:

     

    http://www.ferretforums.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=17&sid=891407cadfd8c9f5567b489bda5a93e8

     

    And this as well:

    http://www.smokingairplanes.com/DAIMLERFERRETMAINTENANCEBRAKESCYLINDERWHEELHUBASSEMBLYENGINE.htm

     

    I posted over in Ferret heaven and someone mentioned just pumping the brakes hard.

     

    But as I like to get as much info and opinions as possible (as I am very new to all of this) I was wondering how people here would go about diagnosing and fixing the "hard" brake pedal issue.

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