earlymb

I use both AVG and Avast, together with Malwarebytes (all free versions). All do independent sweeps of my PC, and I figure that together they should be able to detect most issues.

As for the Windows version, when my computer-illiterate dad bought a new PC it came with W8. It took me 2 days to make the interface look a bit like XP with adding buttons to the taskbar etc. so that he could use it. That was before they updated it so you could make it look like W7. I hate W8, but I do like the W7 on my own PC.

After having glued together my last kits together at least 15 years ago as a kid I was surprised with the Revell 1/48 B-25 I got last christmas. Since this is the type my grandfather served with I decided I really wanted to do my best with it. So I bought some paint, borrowed an airbrush from a friend & had a go at it.

I must say the results, even for a first time user like me, are something I could never hope to archieve with a brush. If you decide to get one, the really basic starter sets are a waste of money. These are usually single-action, which means they are basically spraycans where you put in your own paint. The double-action models give you seperate control over the airflow, and the paintflow. A basic compressor will do (piston preferrable over membrane), but you can upgrade those to a model with a small air tank. I would suggest a combined moisturetrap/pressurevalve & meter to go with that.

As for paints, you can use about any sort of paint, but cleaning the airbrush can be a hassle sometimes. If you use enamels you have to clean with paint thinner, and those can eat away the O-rings and gaskets. Personally I only use waterbased acrylics like Vallejo now. You'll only need water to clean it. Tamiya acrylics are very good too but are alcohol based, and as such need to be thinned with 90% alcohol. The fumes are toxic too.

In all, for about 120 quid you should be able to get a decent set that will serve you for years to come. Some specialised vendors sell their own brand of airbrushes, which are usually perfect as startersets. They might also have used ones. Unless you already know you will pick up modelling hardcore there is no need to spend some serious cash on the high-end brushes. The one I use now is a Premiair G35, but pretty soon I'll have to go look for my own set too...

http://www.dday-overlord.com/eng/commemorations_normandy_june_2014.htm

This is a nice start. Undoubtly it will be updated with more events over the coming period.

Couple of pics, possibly Czech (?) gas mask carries a 1939 date on it, not seen one before.

 

 

 

I have this mask as well, have had it for years.

You can also ask on the g503.com forums, there are a few USMC & USN jeep guys there.

He ran over your car?

This article might help you: http://www.1943mb.com/c-35-G503_WWII_Jeep_Oil_Pump_Distributor_alignment.aspx

Good luck! :-)

IE is the most popular browser to download other browsers for a reason...

I think the price is GBP 25 per vehicle (any type), and includes admission for 2 adults and 2 children.

It is most likely Dutch indeed. With the brass fittings It probably dates from the late 1950's till the early 1970's. Later belts have blackened metal fittings. Nice belt, now go find the Daf YA 314 or 328 that goes with it! :-D

Found today might have been a bargain, anyone confirm it is WWII issue?

Nice find! I got one recently for a bargain price too. Mine was dated on both the canvas and the frame. have you checked the canvas?

If you have issues with the owner, maybe you can have someone else approach him so he won't know it's actually for you? Just someone you trust & he doesn't know. :cool2:

Could they be water-proof overmittens? Although these are generally associated with winter gear...

I picked these 2 from one of the larger dealers who had a few pallet loads, but most were firewood. It took me 10 mins of digging to find 2 without any broken (off) or otherwise missing parts. That being said, I'm really happy with them as I have been looking for a couple of correct wooden folding chairs for a while. Till now I used those green metal military folding chairs, but these are way better for my re-enactment displays anyway!

Of course, later came the regret I didn't spent another 10 mins to find a few more decent ones... :-D

I see it now, thanks!

If you have some old-fashioned or long established garages nearby you could see if they may have something on a shelf in the back of the darkest corner of the partsroom...

The 'Mark forum read'-function still isn't back at the usual place though? :-)

Thanks for your reactions! What price should I be thinking of?

Anyone know a source for a new canvas for a WW2 US model field cot? The wooden framed one, also made & used by the French post-WW2. I have a decent frame with a completely rotted canvas... Can be original US, repro, French or even the French roped-in model.

Thanks; that is a nicely dated example - and other than the stamp identical to mine.... :-D

This is how it looks now:

Perfectly suited for 1940-1950 period HQ displays! :angel:

Is it just me, or has the ability to mark all threads as read moved/disappeared?

 

Andy

I had the same, but it seems the link has now moved to the bottom of the forum home-page. Could this be put back to where it used to be? That was quite handy!

Thanks all for your contribution! My chairs both have 9 slats in the seat. I just finished cleaning the first one and gave it a coat of boiled linseedoil. I'll post pics after it had some time to dry.

I think the number of slats may be more of a manufacturers' variation than a way to put a date on those chairs?

Thanks for your reactions. These aren't dated, but the Queens Crown puts them at the post-WW2 era I think. Would be interesting to see where they are dated though!

Hi all,

at Beltring I bought 2 of these wooden folding chairs. The only marking on them is a 'WD'-mark with barely visible the letters 'CMD' upside-down next to it. While I'm pretty sure this is a Queens Crown and the chairs are post-war, anyone knows a more precise date?

This example was unpainted and I have cleaned it with steelwool. What would the original finish be? Boiled linseed oil, varnish or something else?

Thanks!

Top Gear addressed this issue as well!

(season 18, eprisode 4)