earlymb

I have found a local parts supplier and made some calculations on the cost of the brake repair.

Does this type have a 'power brake pump' (not sure what the correct name is)? I didn't check if it has.

Based on the costs expected we may make an offer. I will also be looking for other vehciles though.

Thanks for all the advice! :-)

Greetz

David

From the military registration number it looks like it was RAF.

Because of the 'A.M.' on the plate?

Bracking systems are relativley cheap and easy to replace. Bite the bullet and use cupro nickel pipes. These dont rust. Steeing probably the ball joints worn, Could be the Raiko bushes.

Again nota lot of work or cost. Chioce is, can you do the wrok required and can you get it cheap enough?

Engine wise did smoke clear as engine warmed up? A filter change flush out and oil change could cure most of it.

I think we can do the work ourselves except perhaps rebuilding the brake cylinders if that is needed, so the cost of rebuilding or replacing parts is important. I'll look around on the internet for an indication.

The smoke mostly cleared when the engine was warm, but when the owner started it again 15 minutes later it again smoked, although not as much as the first time.

Thanks,

David

Well, we checked the car out today. I made some pics; see below (clickable thumbnails). It is indeed ex-military, although I don't know what country. After checking all the points brought up in this thread earlier, a testdrive was made.

The car apparent defects are:

- no brakes that could pass any test. Pumping the brake pedal increases the pressure a bit. According to the owner bleeding the brakes was likely to cure it, however, my guess is that only replacing the master cilinder would do it, together with checking and replacing the slave cilinders and if soaked once with brake fluid, the brake shoes. When braked hard it did slow down but the front wheels blocked quickly and it pulled to the left.

- the car was hard to keep on the road as there was considerable play with the steering wheel. Could this be cured by adjusting the steering house or does it require a new one?

- It was hard to engage the (in my mind worn) gear shift in the desired gear, especially the first. The gears didn't pop out of gear though.

- it poured clouds of white/light grey smoke when started up after two weeks of standing idle.

- there were two holes spotted, on in the left side chassis outrigger and in the driver's footwell, neither give the impression to be difficult to repair. Otherwise I couldn't find any obvious rust.

- the fan just touched the alternator's pulley, which gave an unpleasant noise.

- the engine was extremely noisy, but did not, apart from the white smoke, give the impression that it would require a major overhaul soon.

Any comments on the above observations are most welcome. Are these normal issues with Land Rovers? Can the brake system and steering house be easily fixed or are complete new parts needed? If so how much would that approx. cost?

I think the car is too expensive in this condition and the seller is at this moment unwilling to lower the price, despite the mentioned flaws. I might make him a reasonable offer anyway, but if- and how much will largely depend on the costs involved in the repairs.

Again, thanks for all your help!

Greetz

David

Thanks again all for all your advice! I hope to see this vehicle tomorrow, and I've packed a small hammer, some screwdrivers, a small sharpened rod, an adjustable inspection mirror and a flashlight to check the chassis. And also of course a list of all the points stated above.

To be continued (I hope).

Greetz :-D

David

How can I see if this Landy is original civilian or ex-military civilianised? Any typical features only found on the military stuff? With this type of hardtop and rear door (no tailgate) I think it is a civilian model.

Greetz :-D

David

Thanks again for all your help. First I need to find a good vehicle, then I'll see further about the engine, but it is good to know what the options are and the cost involved.

I hope to have a look at this 1979 109 coming sunday. These are the only pics I have and they are very small and probably pretty useless, but if you do see any red flags or positive points please let me know.

Greetz

David

Thanks again for all your help. It will mainly be used as my daily driver, and perhaps once a year to trailer our Willys slatgrill MB jeep to Normany or Beltring or the like. We just want a car that can do it if needed, and a Landi sure can. For tax reasons it must be just at least 25 years old. As a student I can't afford my own car yet so my father is willing to buy one for me, but he insists it must be able to pull that trailer as for some reason he refuses to put a hitch on his classic Mercedes... :-D

rbrtcrowther, thanks for that nice vid! Can you post some details on the engine conversion you did? Did go straight in with only the footwell to modify or do you need a conversion kit? This is a LHD (I'm in the Netherlands), so that might be a problem.

I figure I can always join the lease-Audi gang later, as I'm still in the age group to enjoy a non-sensible, uncomfortable, silly, Fred Flintstone-ish car, and -I think I can admit it here- I've always liked land Rovers...

Greetz

David

Thanks for all the advice guys! The more the better of course. I read somewhere to also check the chassis crossbeams and forward bulkhead for rust?

As for the engine, economy and reliability are more important than speed. My main reason for looking for a classic 4x4 in this class is to pull a loaded car trailer, but if it really is too slow even for me I might be looking around for a replacement engine that drops in easily, like a 2.5 turbo diesel or something. Anyone know what conversion kits are available?

Greetz

David

Hi all,

are there any specific points to check if looking at a series III 109? Or anyone know of a website that has them? I may be looking at one soon (1979, LHD, 2.3 diesel, civilian 3-door), but I don't anything about these vehicles.

Thanks for the help!

Greetz

David

Some more photo's: http://www2.117.ne.jp/~kgc/top.photograph.htm

Greetz :-D

David

It would have been USAAF and the number should start with 20. The bumpersmarkings would have been:

- first group: '8', followed by a small white 5-pointed star

- second group: xxxFG or BG

- third group: xxxSQ-xx

Example: 8(star)......156FG...... 231SQ-7

Indicating 8th Airforce, 156th Fighter Group, 231th Squadron, vehicle number 7 (probably not an existing unit :-D ).

Of course there will always be deviations, but I think this should give you some ideas.

Greetz

David

I believe the wheels are M38 but I'm not sure, The previous owner put new wheel rims and tyres on her not long after purchasing it, I think because the original tyres were totally ruined.

I will be looking for the correct one piece rims, but the tyres should do ok!

The wheels with the slots are indeed M38. Original 1-piece Kelsey-Hayes rims are very hard to find and very expensive, but I believe MD Juan makes repro's (quality unknown to me) and standard M201 Hotchkiss rims are similar (but not identical) to the original rims and might be a good affordable replacement for the time being. What is the D.o.D.?

Greetz :-)

David

(slatgrill II0247, january 8, 1942)

See this link for more information:

http://www.usmilitariaforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1063&hl=talker

Greetz

David

Nice! Any more pics?

It's not bad though.

 

Might be worth getting in touch with the SdKfZ foundation, I think they did one, but I don't have contact details.

I think you mean the one that belongs to Kevin Wheatcroft. His collection has a website, so you can try to contact his team.

The Sdkfz Foundation might be able to help with technical knowledge though.

Greetz

David

Hi John,

that looks like a great project. Judging from your pics you do still have a lot of original parts, and that will save you a good amount of money.

Except from the great knowledge present on this forum I strongly suggest you also join the forum on http://www.g503.com/ .

Good luck and have fun!

Greetz :-)

David

Great pics! Is this a US vehicle only event?

Greetz :-D

David

Nice event! Is that RSO chassis owned by someone at the show or stored at the depot?

Greetz :-)

David

Contact Rob van Meel (http://www.robvanmeel.nl/), his group built a couple of Welbike replica's a couple of years ago, perhaps he can help you.

Greetz :-)

David

Mid September there will be a lot of Operation Market-Garden related events, I'll see if I can find a website for you.

Other than that there are lots of interesting museums.

Greetz :-D

David

So we are in a Museum and we take a photograph say of a aeroplane or tank.

However photography is not permitted and an attendant or official of the Museum turns up.

What is he (or she) to do ? Confiscate your camera ? How; rip it out of your hand ? Ask for your name and address ? Call the Police ? Make you leave; how?

They have no powers whatsoever.

Being a bolshy sort of chap I would relish this confrontation.

Actually, they can ask you to leave and call the police is that is refused. In cases like these I just try to be inconspicuous with my small camera, never had trouble.

Greetz

David

Got what I need, thanks for looking. :-D

Greetz

David

ICC = Interstate Commerce Commission

20 = 20 liters

5 = 5 gallon

Early gas cans (at least through 1941) have the 2 straight ears screw on lid. After 1941 there is the 4 rounded ear screw on lids. I think sometime in the later 50's the 4 straight ear screw on lid comes into being.

Greetz :-D

David

Hi all,

is there anyone here that has the July 2010 issue of Military Machines International magazine and can scan the article on the Militracks Overloon event for me? This magazine is not available for retail here in The Netherlands unfortunately.

Thanks!

Greetz :-)

David

The first article of a series of 3 regading the Overloon Militracks event is in the July 2010 issue of 'Military Machines International' magazine:

Greetz :-)

David