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Pete Ashby

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Posts posted by Pete Ashby

  1. Howard; good to hear you also have the sides and tailgate!

     

    It's hard to see in the pictures; but it looks a lot like a rare 3C1 QMG body. Someone in the past might have moved the body backwards a bit (and filled the space above the rear wheels to create a flat floor), but I think all 3C1 trucks left the factory with run flat tires and no spare wheel.

     

    Alex

     

    Your right Alex it is a 3C1 body very rare indeed I know of only one more and that was in an unrestored state in Belgium.

     

    Pete

  2. What an excellent find Howard and still with the body as well.

     

    It looks very original with early short neck fuel tanks. Have they got the cast plate on top with the change over key for the 2 gallon reserve?. I can't tell from your photos but it appears from the depth of glass that the screen is fixed if so this feature combined with the 12 cab opening bonnet would indicate a fields mod kit having been fitted (standard production 12 cabs had opening screens). Kits were produced for a limited period in early 1941 to fiels convert 11 cabs to opening bonnet with front vents but he screens were not changed. I broke a badly decayed C15A for spares for my standard production 12 cab C15A about 20 years ago that truck had the field mod kit fitted its the only one I have ever come across.

     

    Is the factory number plate still in place on the engine cover? they so often are missing any chance of some photos of the inside of the cab. The chequer plate rear floor is correct by the way, there were two designs on the early 11 and 12 cab truck either conventional lozenge or lozenge and dot, (you will notice that the pressings of either type are lower than modern equivalents), both Ford and Chevrolet used either or indeed both in a combination of cab floor, step and rear body as you probably know body components were manufactured by a number of different sub contractors.

     

    Very nice find I shall look forward to seeing the restoration blog, I have a quantity of take out parts for Chevrolet mainly engines, gearboxes and transfer cases either complete or in parts I also have some NoS instruments and switches for 11 and 12 cab Chevrolet hidden away somewhere but I think you're some way away from needing those yet:)

     

    Good luck regards

     

    Pete

  3. Does anyone have any view's on using NOS Brake Hoses and Seals?

     

    Are they likely to perform as well as when new with current fluids?

     

    I suppose the first question is how old is the NoS you are proposing to use and how has it been stored, as a rule of thumb I would suggest anything over 10 to 15 years old should be replaced with new equivalents. See also thread below yours by Howard Wade on the use of Si fluids on seals.

     

    Pete

  4. Not come across this problem before Howard thanks for flagging it up I'd be very interested in your final findings with the new cylinders. I know there are issues when changing over to Si if the whole system is not thoroughly flushed washed out and the old seals replaced however Iv'e not heard of non Si compatible modern seals before.

     

    A question for the Moderators; depending on Howard's finale conclusions given the potential serious nature of the consequences is there any way this thread/information could be given a higher visibility for the benefit of all forum members new and old?

     

    Pete

  5. Hi Richard,

     

    It's facing away (flat of counter weight parallel to engine) when cold. How long should it take before the spring is hot enough to move it?

     

    Thanks

     

    Richard

     

    The opening time will be dependent on a couple of parameters

     

    1 the ambient temperature......if it's cold outside then obviously everything takes longer to heat up

     

    2 the amount of work the engine is doing.... for example on a cold day at tick over the exhaust manifold may never get hot enough to open the baffle fully. If however it's a hot day and you start up and run at fast tick over for 5 to 10 minutes it would not be unreasonable to expect the baffle to be near fully open.

    The short answer is the baffle should be near fully open after a couple of miles at road speeds on a average ambient temperature day

     

    Pete

  6. Thanks for that Pete.

     

    Just to further my understanding, does the spring contract or grow as i warms?

     

    Thanks

     

    Richard

     

     

    The spring will try to get longer (expand) the outer end is fixed on a stop so the expansion happens at the inner end of the spiral as this is fixed to the spindle it therefore turns the spindle that opens or shuts the baffle. One thought occurs, you have got the outer end of the spring on a stop ? if not it won't be able to turn the baffle.

     

    That Master of the spanners Richard F will be able to give you chapter and verse on the vagaries of the Bedford 28hp it would be worth seeing what he thinks. I'm sure he'll be along soon when he sees your title.

     

    Pete

  7.  

    The chassis number was 22XX. One of the lowest that I have seen. I am sure the cut-out was there but it does not show in the photos. I thought that the body was all original. If it was not original then it was pre 1960 which seems a little unlikely.

     

    Tim with a frame number that low it would put it in the first week of March for production the other thing that makes it really rare is that it carries that number on a Ford frame it must be one of the very first to be produced by Ford, prior to this ie No1 and for an unknown number in February Midland frames were used (same as fitted to the MB through out it's production run)

    I'm still not convinced about the body however I really can't see a cut out on the scuttle seam at best I think it's a ACM2 composite body (post January44) do you have any pictures of the inside the rear body area?.

    Having said all with a couple of ~£1k spent it could still be an excellent example

     

    Pete

  8. Hi all,

     

    I need a bit of education and guidence please.

     

    I've just fitted a very good used exhaust manifold to my MW. It had a complete working heat riser flap. The biothermal (think thats what it's called) spring had come off but i re-attached it.

     

    I warmed up the engine and all seemed ok, except i didnt notice that that flap had moved position? I expected it to (from closed to open) assuming it's start point was closed?

     

    Anyway, the engine idled and reved well and seemed to splutter a bit when i moved the flap position by hand.

     

    My questions are.

     

    1. I know the flaps purpose is to divert hot exhaust gases to the intake manifold to heat up the engine quicker? Does this happen with the flap OPEN or CLOSED? Whats the flaps starting position? I assume closed? Yes closed ie hot gases to pass around intake manifold

    2. If the spring is not functioning correctly (weak) i assume the flap will remain in it's starting position? What would be the outcome of this as far as the engine running is concerned? possibly increased fuel consumption and poor re-starting with a hot engine(Vaporization of the fuel in the throttle body and inlet manifold giving an over rich mixture)

     

    3. Was it normal to experence the engine running rougher when i moved the flap by hand when the engine was warm? I would be surprised if you could detect the difference just by moving the flap on tick over, on the road under heavy load you may experience some loss of power

     

    Hope all that makes sense?

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Richard

     

    See replies in blue you can get new bimetal springs from most of the jeep spares providers

     

    Pete

  9. That’s Interesting a VEP first contract March 42 GPW? going by the tooling holes in the rear cross member. My British operated GPW ( see here http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?44986-Just-when-you-thought-it-was-safe-another-one-turns-up) is the first week of April 42 and that showed similar additions/ modification to the one in your pictures including the 'B' punched into the spring saddle and I've no idea what it's for either. It’s got a green Sheler steering wheel which is correct for month, no black out driving light on the wing again correct but I can see I hole in the inner wing for a harness so it may have been welded up on the top face?. It appears to have been fitted with an ACM2 body at some point (like mine) and it’s lost it’s original spare wheel carrier and has a British army fabricated one by the look of it and it’s gained a latter grill along the way Both MB and GPW’s of this period should not have safety chain rings below the pintal hook. The windscreen outer frame is wrong for a early jeep it should have cast bronze locking catches and no rifle holder mounting brackets. The inner screen may well be Hotchkis as I can see a number of holes for brackets that take the large vacuum wiper units

    The engine bay shows the standard signs of age related changes ie positive crank case breather mod this was not fitted to early jeeps, it does seem to have the correct early standard air filter with the instructions embossed directly in to the body and not surprisingly it’s lost it’s original horn and gained a post war water pump. All in all not a bad job and with a little bit of TLC could be made very nice indeed, the hood is interesting I’ve not seen British made post war one like that before.

    Are we aloud to ask what the frame number is? at a guess I would think around the 10000 to 12000 mark ;) I would hazard a guess it's one of 725 GPW’s and 175 MB’s withdrawn from US forces and re issued to the British in the late spring early summer of 42.

    Iv'e just looked at the pictures again particularly the dash photo and I can't see a cut out in the top center of the scuttle seam, could be Hotchkis or early reproduction

    Pete

  10. I have an issue of a strong, sometimes, violent vibration when I'm between 35-45 mph. If I then brake to a slow speed say 10mph my jeep comes out of it. Sometimes it shakes the jeep violently and then other times its no where near as bad. I have checked the drive shaft and front wheels to see if anything is lose. Any ideas. I appreciate any help on this. Thank You.

     

    You say the jeep shakes,... to be clear,..... are you feeling it in the steering wheel ie, you are having to hang on for grim death to keep the vehicle on the road or is the body/frame/drive line vibrating and the steering is more or less unaffected?, there is an important distinction and it may help to identify your problem a little more closely.

     

     

    Pete

  11. I occasionally get a violent shudder through the body at those speeds but feel nothing through the steering it only lasts a few seconds then stops. I have never been able to find the problem either.

     

    Body related vibrations like the one you have described can some times be related to a bent prop shaft or one out of balance or worn splines or worn or failed UJ's or a combination of all of those........ in short it often turns out to be drive line related.

     

    Pete

  12. I'm not sure what type of shocks you have on the WoT 6 are they Luvacs or the small round Ford piston units ? Tony's point about the shock absorbers is worth considering. I had this once with a 109 FFW it was fine until it hit a rough bit of road and then it developed front wheel tramp enough to give you blurred vision.... not a particularly nice session.... on closer inspection I found the offside shock had failed, new shocks on the front solved the problem.

    You say that you have never had this problem before with this truck? so it may be worth coming at the problem from a different direction ie if it was fine mechanically when you stored it away for the winter it is highly unlikely that the problem will be a mechanical failure much more likely as others had suggested a leak, flat spot, or deterioration issue.

     

    Good luck let us know what you find

     

    Pete

  13. Hi iam new to this forum stuff but have been working and playing about with old mv's from my teens .so have now got 5 ww2 vehicles which i have restored from weacks out of scrap yards and put them back on the road ,in total i have had 4 other truck pass through my hands and are now out there somewhere on the circuit i am base in Essexs.

     

    Welcome to the forum, what other trucks do you own? we all like to see photos :-)

     

    Pete

  14. Somebody please help me! :banghead:

     

    I'm trying to buy wire for rewiring my 1928 6 v Chevy and this has been giving me a headache all day , and there must be others who would benefit from knowing what size of wire to use when rewiring a 6 v vehicle.

     

    Found plenty of info on converting 6 v to 12 v, and some info on AWG sizes for 6 volt, but nothing simple in the metric wire sizes sold in UK.

     

    Just can't get my head around all the watts amps wire gauge metric nonsense..:sweat:

     

    Has anyone got a simple easily understood list of metric sizes for a 6 volt loom?

     

    Headlights 36 w. 12 gauge

     

    Sidelights 5w 14 gauge

     

    Stop lights/indicators 21w 14 gauge

     

    Dynamo feed wire 12 gauge

     

    Battery to ammeter feed wire 12 gauge

     

    Here is what I have to replicate with the addition of 2 extra rear stop tail lamps an an indicator circuit. 14 gauge

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]102544[/ATTACH]

     

    Any help would be gratefully received !

     

    You can get all the colours you require in the above gauges from Auto Sparks in authentic cotton covered PVC, battery to starter and battery to earth should be 0 or better still 00 gauge

     

    Pete

  15. Thanks for the info everyone especially Pete, I 've made my own stencils in the past using your technique and it works fine just needed to know the sizes, as to what my Z number should be for my early MW is a whole different matter with its chassis number being so low I'm erring towards Z 4109148 maybe :cool2:

     

    Your welcome, just had a look through the Chilwell lists, the first MW's are listed on contract T7729 3927393 to 3928411

    the next batch are on contract T8102 4108701 to 4110700

     

    Pete

  16. An option I have used is to search the web for the required font style then size up as required and print off and tape together into the required sequence. Use masking tape to tape onto stencil card ( oiled manila) and then cut through using a scalpel and steel cutting ruler, curves can be cut free hand with care. If a sign written finish is required the holding bars of the stencil can be cut as small as possible and the gaps touched in using a fine brush after the stencil is removed.

     

    Pete

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