Pete Ashby

In the late 1930's on British vehicles, at least, there was a type of composite cladding or vehicle wall that was in sandwich form. Thin galvanised sheet then plywood and again galvanised sheet. What was its name ?

I am sure someone will know so thanks in advance.

I'm not sure it had a trade name Bob, but the galvanized sheet was either 18 or 22 gauge depending on application. The nearest you can get to it today is Zintec I have used it for a couple of jobs successfully, I would suggest that an etch primer is used before painting as I had an issue with paint bonding on one job.

Pete

For a 6 volt system you need '0' or better still '00' gauge battery to earth and battery to starter cable the cable and fittings are available via the web from several vintage vehicle electrical suppliers sold by the meter make them up with soldered fittings and star washers where appropriate.

A 12 volt conversion will produce a higher cranking speed however with regard to the lighting issue modern 6 volt Halogen or LED bulbs are more than adequate......... at the end of the day the choice is yours.

The only comment I would make is to repeat the advice that has already been given namely 12 volts will not improve bad earths, bad wiring or tired electrical and/or mechanical components.

Pete

What is the wheel rim for ? the WW2 US market is well catered for

Pete

I'm not sure if it has increased compared to the 21 watt bulb, but it's no worse, and there were more powerful ( more expensive ) LED's available, but I didn't want to spend a fortune for initial tests. I can always get brighter LED's later.

I wasn't sure if it was any brighter either when I set up a test for a project that's on the back burner, however on the plus side the current draw and heat generation were significantly less I'll be interested to know how you get on with them over an extended period.

Thanks

Pete

Some how I've missed this restoration thread until this morning, excellent work I know very well whats it like to commit to a long term restoration of a large vehicle. Your on the home run now, every bit you do will make a significant advance.

Keep up the good work looking forward to seeing more photos

Pete

Interesting Steve, I've been toying with the idea of replacing side lights and brake lights with LED's on a 6 volt system. It's hard to tell from your photo do you think the light intensity has increased ?

Pete

Deadline, I'm sorry I don't know your real name, I have no wish to get into an argument with you I think there may be an issue with English vs American terminology.

You are at liberty to put what ever lubricants you wish in your vehicles and I wish you well with that :-).

Regards......... or as as I believe you chaps over there say........ ' Have a Nice Day'

Pete

Jean

I think it's more than likely your C30 was an LAA tractor the small hatch in the back of the cab behind the driver may indicate this.

This feature was found on 8 cwt's that were FFW, 30cwt and later 60cwt LAA's and possibly on ambulance bodied trucks.

The purpose was to enable voice communication between personal in the rear and the driver in the front via a canvas tunnel between the rear body and the cab.

Pete

Jean

from the build tag in your photos the truck is as Neils suggests a C30. From left to right the numbers mean the following

1= year of manufacture

8= CMP military pattern design

4= number of wheels

4= number of wheels supplied with power

1= code for C30cwt

0= spare space

the next 4 numbers= the number of trucks of this type in your case 30cwt CMP design built

So your truck appears to be a late 11 cab C30 produced in the first two months of 1941 just before 12 cab production came on line.

I am guessing that the windscreen is fixed (not opening) the seat backs are non folding and the the wooden blocks that the seats sit on are about 2.5 to 3 cm deep and the angle iron behind the seats (where the cab roof and the cab back meet is not cut back to give extra room for the seats to move back on the runners if this is the case they all point to standard production 11 cab features.

Nice truck, I'm sure we would all like to see more photos and to follow the restoration when you start in a blog on the restoration forum.

regards

Pete

In the UK the market for lubricants for vintage and classic vehicles is well catered for. If you do a search on this forum you can see that the topic has been covered in detail.

Morris oils is a major supplier and has a wide range of products for the older vehicle.

In summery play safe, use straight 90 in your gearbox and transfer case, EP90 in the axles and straight 30 with no additives in the engine.

Pete

Thats the one. I went there last year, pulled off down the lane. Warm peacful summer afternoon, and just couldn't belive how tight it was, hell, can't be more than ten feet across! The whole area is well signed with information and direction information.

Very nice Tony, brings back memories,..........

Bill, sorry somewhat hijacked your thread to return to your question, Matchlesswdg3 offers good advice I would only add that you need to take a reasonable selection of running spares and tools, a good easy to use phrase book, maps, reference books and a plan in place so that you can get both you and the truck home if the worst happens.

Pete

Falaise Gap and Mount Ormel is a must visit. To see the ford where so much happened made me very thoughtful. It's so %^&**% Small!

 

It is also the birth place of William of Normandy, the castle is fantastic.

Is that the ford near St Lambert Tony?, without even trying we were finding loaded MP38 mags, stick grenades and jack boot soles in the mud and gravel in 1984.

Pete

I'd not fully agree with that. A Group has Group ideas, go on your own and there is a lot more to Normandy and Calvados than D-Day. Chuck a stick in any direction you'll find something new and intresting. Go inland as well.

I'd second that Tony some of our most memorable days on tours were when we headed off on our own or in a small group of vehicles armed with some good reference books (not the standard guide books) and a large scale Michelin map of the area.

Following the Goodwood and Epsom offensives particularly comes to mind and a very atmospheric day in the woods around Mount Ormel. Everyone should do the beaches at some time but there is much more to find inland as well.

Pete

Hello Jean welcome to HMVF, Niels is correct you have a mid to late 1940 cab 11 truck there it looks like a very good start for restoration congratulations :-).

To be able to identify the truck as either a C30 or C60S a little more information may help people decide for example are spring helpers (secondary springs) attached to the rear axle ? what size tires are fitted are they original ? the frame number and type code was stamped onto a small data plate attached to the engine cover inside the cab do you have this ?

Good luck with your restoration

regards

Pete

Impressive :goodidea: keep the photos coming, I like your attention to detail.

Pete

Yes very wise to keep away from the dreaded lead pencil :shake:

I think this method of looking for HT was invented by some sadist training officer :argh::argh::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow::wow: much safer with an old ministry Avo turned up to the highest range :-D

regards

pete

Yep sure thanks Clive, I use the analogue volt meter method between the plug and block and look for the direction of deflection, the other method with the lead pencil never works for me I just end up getting a belt and never manage to see the flare. I think for most applications on 12 volt systems the 10 to 15% loss of HT is not such a big deal but I fully agree with you on a 6 volt system you need every volt you can squeeze out of the coil on hot cranking.

Pete

Hi Pete,

You now have to work out if it is a coil designed for negative or positive earth systems. There is a distinct difference.

Ah yes indeed there is Richard, unhappy memories of burnt out replacement coils on BMC's back in the day :-( , I'm Ok with this one though checks out fine for - earth systems

Pete

Thank you Adrian,

mystery solved, my French /English school dictionary was challenged with regard to mechanical/electrical terms I tried things like earth or negative :rolleyes:

Pete

I've just unpacked a 6 volt Ducellier coil and noticed the low tension terminals are marked Batt and Rup.....by default I can connect it the right way round as Batt is self explanatory. However I'm curious to know what RUP actually stands for I've tried looking up a French translation without any luck. I've come across + & - and SW & CB but never RUP any one know ?

Pete

Excellent work Rob very pleased to see your back on the Vulcan :-)

regards to you and the Old Chap

Pete

Sad news indeed.

As a mad keen 15 year old I first met Peter at a John Carter Shotersbrooke show in 1972 just after he had come out of the arena with his Hell on Wheels display team and I was signed up there and then to the MVCG.

In those early days trips to Tarring Road in Worthing where Peter had his motor bike business to buy jeep spares was always a much looked forward to event and then there were the tours that Peter organised and these were instrumental in encouraging people to become interested in the movement and legitimized the collecting of military vehicles.

Without doubt the MV world past and present owes a huge debt to Peter Gray he was responsible for opening a world to me that has produced a life time of adventures, vehicles, friends and memories.

RIP Peter 'We know who you are'

Pete

As an aside, UNC and UNF did not exist at that time. American threads were specified as NC or NF but always with the pitch listed, i.e 1/4-28NF. When threads were unified in the 1950's, nearly all of the 'standard' pitches were used but there are some gotchas.

1" NF was 14tpi, when threads were unified, they picked 12tpi. There are a lot of 1" fine screws and bolts in a Sherman but none of them are UNF!

Yep that was the case Adrian,

I think the US changed the nomenclature in 1949 from ANC ANF to UNC UNF, for most common sizes the only practical difference being for some specific sizes the the male/female thread tolerance was altered slightly but the pitch and tpi in the main remained unchanged.

Pete

Hi, can anyone tell me what thread the knurled nuts are that fix on to the windshield inner frame slide mech. ..the ones you slacken off to open your MB/GPW screen and then tighten up to keep it open ...I am guessing UNC , as it seems course , but thread and size would be great ..Thank you

I think they are 5/16 UNC 18 TPI from memory

Pete

Looks good, I do have a soft spot for British 15cwt's congratulations :thumbsup:

Pete