Pete Ashby

Not sure what you mean by post war replacements, do you mean reproduction ?

Pete

Signed,

It seems ironic (as many things seem to be currently) that this issue should surface as we remember the 100th anniversary of the 'War to end all Wars' where the point is constantly being made that there are no surviving participants, ergo, all we have to remember it by are records and documents. It seems therefore incongruous that possibly the worlds best repository of these records is to be closed to public access.

Policy makers may do well to dwell on the fact that another world war was proceeded by the removal and burning of books and records.

Books and records and the public access to them are to my mind the corner stone of a civilized and democratic nation when we start to loose this right of access the fabric of our existence is threatened.

sorry a if this is a bit heavy but it's something I feel very strongly about.

Pete

Thanks Terry , I was debating whether to change it too the "modern" oil , also the maybe the gearbox ?

 

Is there are any advantages going with the EP90 over the 140?

 

Dave

There is a school of thought that suggests EP(hypoid) oils will attack what our US friends call 'Yellow Metal' ie phosphor bronze,brass,copper alloys found in some gear cluster bushes, thrust washers and in the case of synchro mesh units the blocking rings.

I'm not sure that the degree of attrition is proven in our relatively slow speed low use trucks but I would suggest on balance caution and not use an EP oil if there is any yellow metal present.

The other factor that won't concern you but is worth noting for those who run jeeps is that the EP additive will reduce friction and prevent correct operation of the blocking rings on the synchro hub making for clunky gear changes.

As for 140 vs 90 I have run CMP's Dodges and GMC's with either without a problem the only comment I would make is that in cool weather there is significantly more drag using 140 until everything gets moved round and warmed up, in an MW from cold don't expect to get into top for half a mile or so.

In your engine use straight 30 with a low detergent content this is much better suited to older design engine filtration systems and I think gives better overall pressure stability across the operating range.

For what it's worth I use Morris Oils not the cheapest by far but it does what it says on the can.

Pete

Another early Berks and Oxon member passed.

Mike and Carrie were stalwart in their support for the area and it's activities when we started it in 1977. I think David has captured Mikes personality perfectly and the thought of him mediating between Mike and Chris made me laugh out loud.

Mike's early life was interesting and I suspect influenced him in later life. Some found him difficult to deal with, as a very young area secretary I found both Mike and Carrie nothing but endlessly encouraging and supportive and his restorations inspirational.

I'm very pleased to hear that Mike found peace in France after Carries untimely death, like David I lost touch with them and felt sad that I could not offer condolences to Mike, Carrie was a lovely lady and very kind at a time in my life when things were not very good.

Some people you meet and pass by, some stay and some go but are not forgotten Mike and Carrie Hoffman are in the last category

so long Mike

Pete

I can't ever remember seeing a figure for the trailed load capacity for any CMP for a C15A or F15A I would suggest 1 ton would be in the right ball park. The 12 cab C15A was used as a stop gap anti tank gun tractor in 1941/42 here in the UK.

Artillery tractors had the same basic frame however they had considerable modification by way of additional gusset plates added to the side rails and cross members.

Pete

Like the attention to detail and quality of the finish very nice indeed keep the photos coming

regards

Pete

I have to say I'm seriously impressed, that is some bit of kit. Out of interest what is it rated at per gallon ?

regards

Pete

Have you tried Rex Ward 07768 684095 ? Is it not the same gauge as fitted to Jeeps ? If so Universal Jeep should be able to help 01483 860403.

Ford CMP are 6 volt electric temp and oil pressure gauges

Pete

Yes it will be electric if it's original ford CMP. I think I have one, PM me with your e-mail and I'll send you a couple of photos if your interested.

Just gone out to the barn to check, sorry Mark I must have sold the temp gauge, all I have left is the electric Ford CMP pressure gauge.

Pete

Are you looking for a Ford electrical or bulb and tube unit ?

Pete

Good job Peter I like your phased approach to the restoration, you can see positive progress with each completed phase something that isn't always possible if everything is taken apart and pilled in heap in the back of the workshop.

Sadly Iv'e seen a number of people fail with projects because they didn't adopt your method of working.

Keep posting progress

regards

Pete

Very nice indeed, good to see a rare truck coming back into the UK for change.

regards

pete

Not an easy thing to do as I'm sure you already know, it really depends how you look at it I suppose.

If you consider the truck within it's historical context as an original example of a rare type it should be valued very highly.

However if you consider the potential at sale hammer price for a non main stream large WW11 British truck it's appeal may be limited (wrongly in my opinion) and this would obviously be reflected in the price.

If I were to guess and that is all it is, I would be pitching between £10 to £15K based on rarity and originality.

Pete

30cwt Ford WOT3 The RAF had a number of these trucks fitted with GS or electric arc welding bodies and a few modified to carry Signals equipment designated Signals Tender Type 346 this is the truck in the photos.

Pete

I remember looking at your Morris in the yard when it was waiting for you to collect it, do I remember correctly that you did a very speedy restoration job on it?.

As for the BY5's one went for restoration and I think was up for sale a couple of years ago on Milweb I seem to remember. I think there was talk some time ago that someone was going to try to save the other one.

When I first saw them back in 1976 the lockers contained unused wheel chains in hessian sacks and greased and wrapped new spare half shafts in storage clips in the cab. All the canvas door curtains and seat cushions were in place and in good condition. In those days the yard was a gold mine for early CMP 11, 12 and 13 cab variants, US 1/2 and 3/4 ton Dodges British Bedfords, Austins and MCC's and a whole lot more besides.

Many happy hours spent there with good friends..........good memories

Pete

The yard is called Maines Bob.

Very little left that's savable now but over the past 40 years a fair number of rare vehicles have been saved and are now in collections both in the UK and arboard.

Pete

Hello,

my name is Jacek Nitkiewicz. I'm a proud owner of Chevrolet CMP C15 with type 11 cab and complete 2A1 body.

Due to age truck needs restoration.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]97300[/ATTACH]

Photo shows vehicle before trip to my workshop.

Regards to all Forum members.

 

Jacek

Very nice indeed Jacek welcome, The 2A1 body with wooden tool box is a real rarity, look forward to seeing this as a restoration thread perhaps ?

regards

Pete

Not withstanding the valid points Degsy makes and as long as you can afford the fuel and tyres a GMC is an excellent truck to own and drive.

I owned a B353 B2 for a number of years and did a lot of miles both in the UK and on tour. Excellent drive when wound up, KSU 498 where are you now?

Pete

Good work looking forward to seeing more

Pete

Must be the cheapest and fastest drive line fix available well done !

Used to be a favorite trick of a certain person who has a leaning towards water fowl (I think you can guess who I mean Richard.) :mad: Tended to spoil the street cred at shows...jump in engage gear rev up to leave with a flourish and all that could could be heard above the over revving engine was the amused titters of the on lookers:red:

Pete

If you want to re use the nuts I would go for mild heat followed by diesel and then an impact wrench turned up to max. As Mash suggests tighten first then undo then tighten again back an forth to clear the threads.

Declare Independence ? ah, perhaps not then ....

 

 

Tut! Tut! Gordon you know you'd miss us :-(

Look forward to following this restoration, I have a bit of a soft spot for these fifth wheel tractor units. Regarding rebuilding leaf springs give Jones Spring Eng Ltd a try @ Darlaston WS10 8BE Tel 0121 568 7575, I've found them to be very good with a quick turn round and a reasonably priced, no connection just satisfied customer.

Regards

Pete

Nice find, there are still little gems tucked away waiting to be restored. I shall look forward to following this thread

Good luck

regards

Pete

Terry, do you just want the file or the jig as well?. If it's just the file then any new flat needle file will do the job you can get them from hobby shops for not very much money. The key is to put the ring carefully in the vice with the absolute minimum protruding above the jaws and file on the forward stroke only. Take a couple of light cuts off one side then turn the ring round and take a couple of light strokes of the the other side replace in the bore and re measure, You do not want to remove very much material at a time, make sure the ends are square with no sharp points. If you want a jig do a Google search, they are not cheap and not worth the investment if you are only doing this once.

Pete