Tony Lawrence

The data plate is interesting as it is for an earlier contract (23/2487) to my mortar trailer (23/4302) but both are Orme Evans and obviously they were not saving materials yet i.e. using cast brass instead of thin steel. I cannot make out the chassis number from the photo or if the panels on the second line have been stamped. I would suggest that one of the trailers has been re-planked at some time as they are both definitely GS No.2 trailers, not mortar trailers (mudguards are the giveaway). Given the number of trailers found in Holland it is almost as though we exported them!!

Sometime back I posted photos of the towing hitch on my mortar trailer and somebody said it was a post war Bradley hitch. I am sceptical about this as it looks nothing like any Bradley hitch I have ever seen and the fact that it is attached in exactly the same place with the same hole spacings/tubes as originally fitted to the trailer. Now an identical hitch has come up on e-bay (although with a much smaller ring) and it is described as a NATO hitch. Could it be a post-war army hitch designed to fit in place of the wartime hitches but allowing for the larger tow ring and shaft?. Also in passing I thankfully had some new spring clamp U bolts made by Owens of Rotherham as when I came to undo the nuts, six of the eight bolt ends snapped as they were so corroded. The fourth U bolt had to be cut up in situ to remove it. Lesson learnt - don't cut corners!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NATO-TOW-EYE-/121192650571?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item1c37a5174b#ht_101wt_956

Somebody has just bought a GS Mk 2 trailer on e-bay for £800 and it needs a lot of work to make it reasonable, such as new wood, metal repairs, etc. Makes my expenditure seem a little more reasonable now - at least that is what I will tell the other half!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290987425402?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

A tip for reproducing collared bolts such as the ones that the brake cranks pivot on. The bolt is a 7/16" BSF but the collar is 1/2". I used K&S brass tubing no.s 138 and 139 that are telescopic fit and are respectively 15/32" and 1/2". They form a perfect collar and when greased the crank swivels perfectly. Another tip - don't think you have painted the trailer frame completely when it is standing on it's wheels!!. I turned mine onto it's side to finish the brakes and then found all the areas I had missed. Also sandblasting does not get rid of all the 70 year old underseal gunge. I had to go over patches with an angle grinder and wire brush. Onwards and upwards.

82ZA70 looks like a post-war army registration number - I don't know how it would fit into the contract system. In my chaotic filing system I found this photocopy of a manual that shows the mortar trailer from the rear fully loaded with either mortar or ammunition but also it shows the detail of the floor planking with a wide central plank and 3 narrower planks to either side and an even narrower one against each side - just like the planking on my trailer when I got it in 1986 so the odds are that at least the floor was original. It is the pattern I will be replicating.Hopefully you can make out the detail but it is a scan of a photocopy.

This is the same type as shown in the 1948 manual for GS Mk2 trailers - I would be interested for my mortar trailer if it was going spare

I am going to get my trailer plate printed on vinyl as I described back in the thread and will use tin sheet as the base instead of steel. Albion Alloys produce 15 thou sheet 4" x 10" tin sheet which is convenient as the data plate is 4" x 1 1/2". Also tin will not rust! I have also noticed that most of the restored trailers have the channel section of the vertical supports as a channel right to the top, as do the illustrations in the manual whereas mine are cut back by 2" at the top so that there are no channel sides. This is probably how my one piece top wood sections came to be. I cannot believe that anybody would go to the effort of cutting all these uprights for what would be only a cosmetic finish so is it a difference between manufacturers? Mine is an Orme Evans trailer so was this one of their peculiarities? Does anybody have any ideas? Also nobody appears to have come up with a solution to the three small brackets underneath the next to rear cross member - any further thoughts yet? Finally I have had no luck sourcing any of the cast iron cleats that are so prominent so I have commissioned Marshall Brass in Norfolk to cast some in brass using one of my three originals as a master. This is much cheaper than casting in cast iron - although b****** expensive - don't tell the other half as I need a total of 14 (3 original and the rest fabricated). The fact that I do not have any more originals also suggests that the woodwork on the trailer when I bought it in 1986 was not original except for the fold down front trailer board that still had the cleats. David, you still appear to have all your cleats on your trailer - look after them as they are gold dust -literally!

Marvellous photo - the first I have ever seen of this trailer. Presuming you found it in Holland, could it be one of the ones Tony B. was talking about as having been based in Nijmegen?

At the risk of boring people I have just received my ash wood - all planed to Imperial spec. of 7/8" (23mm) and various Imperial widths as based on my previous trailer wood that in turn was based on the measurements of the wood on the trailer when I got it. Tow hitch is back on and one wheel hub has been dis-assembled, cleaned and put back together with no fuss. the 70 year old grease had not dried up and the bearings were OK. It is a pity that the wood has to be painted as it has a lovely grain.

Just managed to dis-assemble the tow hitch. I had to drill out the rear cotter pin as even heat would not shift it. The front pin/wedge has a distinct home made appearance but now all cleaned, greased and re-assembled with a new cotter pin cut from one of the old mounting bolts. Tomorrow onto the first of the wheel hubs.

Yes John, from Namric as I am going down that way tomorrow

I got my two replacement rubber boots from Paul Beck Vintage Supplies. www.vintagecarparts.co.uk. Ask for 7W-2205 brake dust cover - these are their newly produced copies of the original Girling 'ExpanderDust Covers' number SP 1202'

Trailer chassis back from the sandblasters and all seems OK. I am wondering whether to replace the axle U clamps. They are fairly pitted but the chances of getting imperial U clamps now is remote - any thoughts please? I have managed to get the hitch unit off and I can make out the following cast marks on the inside of the hitch unit JB 38098 and the following stamped markings on the outside of the housing under the towing eye S-1/1104. Again, any ideas on it's provenance. The holes and tube guides on the chassis to take the clamping bolts of the hitch unit are original and undisturbed, i.e. no modifications to take a replacement unit that wasn't to the original spec.

Is there a data plate still on the trailer?

It could be the 'Trailer 10cwt. 2 wh. for D.F. set' To quote from the Data Book of Wheeled Vehicles " DF trailers have always been fitted with the standard 2 21/32" draweye as the trailer is normally towed by a 3 ton lorry. The body is fitted with a rear door, windows and seats for two operators together with DF equipment". Certainly I have never seen photos of this particular trailer. Where has it appeared from as it is probably a unique specimen?

Nice Mr. Corden came over and helped (or rather took over) taking all the brake cylinders out of the hubs, dismantling all the brake linkages and removing the errant grab handle so all is now ready for the sandblaster. The pivot for the brake lever was not original and had to be cut anyway to release the lever. A decision has to be taken regarding the suspension - whether to try and remove all the original crown nuts on the brackets holding the axle and risk having to renew a lot of it or leave as is. The appearance after sandblasting will be the decider.

Yes, John, me...........play time tomorrow if you want to come over

In anticipation of storms, plagues and pestilence tomorrow I rushed home from work and removed the rest of the woodwork, hinges and grab handles - well one of them as the other has the pin well and truly seized. Now soaking in WD40 in readiness for another attempt. One thing I noticed and had forgotten about was a layer of tar-like paint layer over most of the underfloor frame. I remember now trying to remove it when I first had the trailer. Was it some type of protective paint put on when the trailer was manufactured? Hopefully the sandblasting will remove it properly

I won't need that much as I am painting it with a OO brush!! No luck at Ernest Doe for cleats so fingers crossed down the forge road

I will try Ernest Does tomorrow otherwise I'm going to a local forge to see if they can make some. If I proceed that way I may well be able to have more made for any other sad person who is embarking on a similar project. Talking of sad people, I happen to own Dorking Models and look what turned up today - it's almost as though somebody 'up there' is reading this thread as well!!

I've really got the bit between my teeth. The trailer is almost completely stripped down - the floor will be removed at the weekend. It is still road worthy so I will tow it with the jeep to the sandblasters next Wednesday. When I get it back the wheels will come off and I will ask that nice Mr. Corden to come over and give me a hand to turn it over so I can dismantle the wheel hubs and suspension. the hubs have come off before but not the suspension so I think I will be in for some fun!!One thing (or several) I am short of are the original cleats. I have three but the trailer should have at least fourteen (four at each side and three at each end. Does anybody out there have any spare or can suggest a source. These have one central hole and all modern ones have two fixing holes. I picked up 100 M6 x 30mm coach bolts and square nuts for about £10 today with wide, plain heads - perfect. Some photos to show progress and the cleat. More to follow.............

Thanks, Wally and Richard for your observations - T&G is definitely out. John, reference your observation regarding head size of coachbolts, today I got a fairly wide headed M6 coachbolt. I will show you at the pub on Wednesday.

John,I've told you about reading before - as stated in my previous message I am going to use square nuts on M6 coach bolts. With regard to t&g I am not going to use it. Sean's trailer does not appear to have it nor do some of the other trailers photographed on this thread.I am not convinced that they would have bothered with all the extra work involved, especially finishing off around the tops of the sides where they would have had to plane/cut off all the t&g profile

They are Centurion track links (4 in all). I can't help with the measurements as my trailer is a Mortar trailer with no box.

At long last summer is over (it's p*****ing with rain) and so I have taken spanner and hammer to the mortar trailer to begin it's long overdue renovation. Reading back over the 17 pages on this thread I must admit that too much information can tend to baffle the limited brain cell. I am going to renew the wood with ash, keep to the uneven floorboard sizes (9 3/8" centre plank, 3 each side 4 3/4" plank and outside plank 2 3/4"0 All side and end planks are 4 1/2" wide. All timber is 7/8" thick. Unless anybody can advise I am going to be reduced to using M6 coachbolts with square nuts - I think I must have used these before as the nuts I have rescued fit a new M6 bolt (although a new nut does not seem to fit an old coachbolt!!) At the moment I will also be re-using my mystery tow hitch.The following photos show the beginning before rain stopped play