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Posts posted by ArtistsRifles
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I think you can get away with that in a Ferret Chris - but I suspect the Stalwart might be a bit too noticeable
Seriously though - I've no problems with extended maint before and after - if I did then I'd be in the wrong hobby, wouldn't I
Just relieved to hear others on the Alvis 6x6 model are doing it.....
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Thanks folks. Intersting points of view
Now - to compound the issue - one of the reasons for having a vehicle like a Stalwart moved rather than driven is the fact that they do not like being towed any great distance and certainly not at any speed in the event of break-down and recovery being required (which kind of brings us back to another thread on here about breakdown cover for H.M.V.'s!!).
As they are all part of the same family - how do those who whizz around in Saracens and Saladins get on in regards to this point???
The problem with driving stollies on the road is the wind up you get in the wheels, it apparently needs to be driven every so often on rough ground to "unwind" them, just a thought :idea:
Below is the full answer from the Stalwart Owners list on this very topic.
Do I assume then, that although Saracens and Saladins effectively have the same running gear, the wind-up effects are not so severe on them???
> I know the Avis 6x6 suffers from wind-up of the drive shafts if used
> on tarmac's roads and will eventually snap.
No they wont.
> Also that the only cure is to get off-road for a period of time
Largely a waste of time.
How far are you going to drive it at a little over 2mpg?
Do not believe the stories about anything greater, those who have accurately measured all have figures in the >2, <2.5 region.
> Question is - as an average ('cos very vehicle is different) - how
> many miles is it considered safe to do on tarmac'd roads before you
> need to get off-road and allow the wind-up to dissipate.
Its not the drive shafts but the tracta joints that are susceptible as they finally run out of oil, even submerged, owing to the continual sealing" force on the faces. These then cold-weld and get torn apart as the joint revolves causing pits in the drive claws and joint tongues.
The army uses a graphite additive (commercially, Acheson's Oil Dag) to provide some "plated" lubrication, stripped parts from ex-mil items with black, graphited oil, are perfect.
Consider; the tyres are matched, as required, to the max 2" spec front to rear; have a circumference of 12ft 8¾" when new and the vehicle is 20ft 10" long. Moving it its own length has the transmission wound up therefore.
Secondly, any corner necessarily (by geometric fact) has all six wheels describe a different arc and travel quite differing distances and causes instant wind up, so much so it is necessary to keep some power on during corners as the braking effect is quite considerable.
The transmission is torque limited by the tyres, anecdotal evidence suggests the relatively small rubber contact area of standard "Bar-Grip" NDCC tyres is helpful, more modern and/or radial alternatives may well cause huge trouble.
> Also - how long do you have to spend off-road before it's cleared the
> condition, i.e. - if stored on a farm/stables would a quick whizz around
> on the rough ground be enough?
Unless you have several tens of miles of arrow straight road, its pointless, except perhaps to allow some oil to replenish the tracta drive joints.
It is never not wound up unless you jack the whole vehicle off the ground.
This hare set running and now becomes oft spoken Stolly "folklore", is derived from the BAOR drivers pamphlet (which has my Stalwart on the cover) and the folklore ignores the fact that the suggestion that wind up be relieved off road is specifically for "fast" Autobahn (i.e. straight) travel of over 30kms, the document purposely and rightly ignores the recommendation for "twisty" roads.
The mil additive called up in the service schedule and SSI is Acheson's Oil Dag, it is gobsmackingly expensive too.
Tyre matching is very important too.
I have done 50ml on a new tracta joint which then had to be accessed for other reasons and it was already pitted using plain EP90 gear oil albeit GL5 spec.
I have stripped many hubs and BBs that were direct ex-mil and have some more here yet to be opened up; the oil is like thick, black Indian Ink but the parts, especially tractas, when cleaned have a perfect mirror finish always.
Also - as regards the OilDag/gear oil mix:
Stalwarts are specified for OEP220, this is an 80W/90 GL4 gear oil. For temperate use the GL4 or preferably 5 spec 90EP is fine.The SSI calls for OX320 which is Oildag. It says:
"When new assemblies are fitted and at the 500 mile servicing, the following quantities of OX320 should be included in the OEP220 used:
Transfer box (my note - it feeds the CBBs) 2/3rd pint (Imperial) Front and rear bevel boxes 1/3rd pint (Imperial)"
It goes on to say the central lube tank should be initially filled with 19 pints (Imp) of OEP220 and 1 1/3 pints of OX320. (This assumes the hubs have been pre-loaded with 5 1/3rd pints of OEP220 and OX320)
It then has the BBs filled by removing their level plugs and waiting up to 2 hrs for oil to appear, then a further 12 pints of OEP220 is introduced into the central lube and the vehicle run until the level stabilises. Topping-up is done with OEP220 only.
(Edited to include Oil/OilDag mix.)
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Hello Tyler,
That would certainly look an impressive convoy.
Cruising speed of the Militant is about 25-30mph, but it seems alot faster when your in it but alot slower when your behind it no doubt! :wink:
Regards
Richard
FWIW to you Richard - we used to reckon on an average speed for the Militants of 20 mph and a top speed of 30 mph (flat out with following wind) when convoy planning. "Good" point about the Militants was these speeds were the same irrespective of it being unladen or carrying a full load!!! Just took longer to get to them
Are you all planning on being at Duxford on the 18th then?? If so - will be along with camera. Too much to hope a Stalwart will have transferred ownership by then !!
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Thanks folks. Intersting points of view
Now - to compound the issue - one of the reasons for having a vehicle like a Stalwart moved rather than driven is the fact that they do not like being towed any great distance and certainly not at any speed in the event of break-down and recovery being required (which kind of brings us back to another thread on here about breakdown cover for H.M.V.'s!!).
As they are all part of the same family - how do those who whizz around in Saracens and Saladins get on in regards to this point???
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Oh, the memories!!!
Got my Class 2 on a Mk1 Militant.
Happy days. :lol:
Oh yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If I weren't so set on getting a Stalwart I'd be engaged in the task of trying to find a Mk1 GS - probably an almost impossible task these days....
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Good luck!!!
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Thats interesting - my fav. RL in 215 was 21 EP 60.
ArtistsRifles, that sounds very close to 'my' RL, 9 Regt AAC, BFPO 41. Traded them in for MKs in about '81.
Richard, thanks for the information, it all helps to put a rough date on when the apple of my eye was on the road.
21 EP 60 - an RL-W - was assigned to "C" Troop, 215 Sqdn, 151 Regt RCT (VR) in the mid Seventies. We were based at the drill hall in the Mile End road opposite the tube station. As an Engineer suport unit our primary vehicles were Mk1 militant 6x4 tippers - holding a class 2 HGV meant I spent most of my time in the cab of one of those. Fun in their own way and more of a challenge to drive but the RL was the one I loved driving. Can't recall now the reg of the other vehicles after all this time - although I think the one Militant 6x6 GS we had was 08 ET 56.
Garage there held 3 Militant tippers, 1 Militant GS, 2 RL's and one 90" landrover. Oh yeah - and a BSA B40 despatch bike....
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Thanks - I'll amend the caption next time I log onto the site!!
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Thanks Lee - there's no immediate rush as such!! I'm not going to look at her till next Saturday and, if we can arrange a deal thats equitable to both parties, it's going to take another couple of weeks after that (at least) to arrange the money and insurance etc.
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Interesting range of views
Primary reason for asking - of course - was to get a feel for the best wat of getting a prospective purchase home. Works out at £96 of fuel to get home unaided - possibly £300 on a low loader. Sorely tempted now to drive it home given the reports on performance and reliability from the current owner.....
Why not do a deal with the seller where he delivers (drives) it for a fixed fee & you give him a lift home, if it's as reliable as he says he shouldn't have to much of a problem with that..
Good idea - spoils my fun though And I need to have a destination in mind before I could do that sort of deal Right now I'm thinking I might see about getting her left in situ until something can be sorted out in that department.
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Interesting range of views
Primary reason for asking - of course - was to get a feel for the best wat of getting a prospective purchase home. Works out at £96 of fuel to get home unaided - possibly £300 on a low loader. Sorely tempted now to drive it home given the reports on performance and reliability from the current owner.....
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EL & EM was used for B vehicles & would be probably 1963-64. EK ended in 1963 & EP started in 1965.
Thats interesting - my fav. RL in 215 was 21 EP 60.
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Hey Guy`s any picture`s of this event for those who could not make it :?:
Ashley
Well - there are a few here: http://community.webshots.com/album/548931825MedeyP
Wasn't too sure how good the batteries were so took it easy
Nice to meet up with all the faces from the forum who were there and I look forwards to doing so again in the future - hopefully with my own vehicle next time!!
If I missed saying goodbye to any one please accept my apologies and pass them on acordingly, I was late in leaving to pick up the daughter mk 1 and didn't have time to do the rounds.
Was a good day for me and I thoroughly enjoyed myself!!!! Thanks to everyone there!!!!
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So - having paraphrased the Great Bard in the title - the question is do you drive a vehicle to a show - or even just drive around in general - or does it travel on a low-loader??
Reason I ask is the consensus of opinion on the Stalwart owners list is put it on a lowloader (a) because of fuel consumption and (b) because it's a 40+ year old vehicle and might break down - and if it does the average RAC/AA type won;t be able to fix it. Seems a degree of logic there
However - after talking to Staurt, Lee, Kevin and others down at Coahouse Fort today I'm left with the impression that driving them is not such a big issue (provided you can affrd the fuel )
Thus the questions - provided you're vehicle is road legal:
* would you drive to a show or just on a local cruise around- or would you only ever transport it there????
*Is there a "cut-off" range (say 40 miles as an arbitrary figure) below which you'd drive and over which it's transporter time??
* Would driving in a convoy affect either of the above decisions???
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One of the chaps on the Stalwart mailing list posted this yesterday - I've reposted it here in case it may be of help to any one else outside the Stalwart owning community!!
I thought the following link may be of use to some of you, with regards to sourcing the following at a competitive price.The chap specialises in the supply of : Bearings, Oil Seals, Bushes, ''O'' Rings etc..........
I have recently purchased from them Tapered Roller Bearings for the road wheels, Hub oil Seals for the same, Tapered Roller Bearings and Oil seals for the Bevel box pinion assembly's (all 8).
All in all a thoroughly nice chap to deal with.
With a range of Bearing manufacturers at his disposal Timken, SKF, RHP,
etc.....and there for a good range in Prices when it comes to bearings to suit most budgets? if you want to fit a cheaper alternative to original that is.
I said I would pass his details on to fellow Stalwart owners, I hope nobody objects?????
VINTAGE BEARINGS & SEALS
Email: vintagebearings-seals@...
WEB: http://www.vintagebearings-seals.co.uk
They will post items World Wide..........at cost.
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Has anyone had any experience of "Metrinch" spanners and sockets? the type that are supposed to fit metric and imperial and all things between.
Hmmm.........seen them, read about them but never tried them. I would sooner have a good fitting open ender.
Richard
Umm - I use thm quite a lot!! A nut or bolt head has to be virtually round before they fail to grip. Only problem I can forsee in using them on anything over a Jeep in size is the fact they don't - to the best of my knowledge - cover anything much over 25mm or 1" imperial.
Amything under this and they are a really useful bit of kit. Sockets are also available, normal or deep, or even impact.
This is the website: http://www.metrinch-tools.com/website/introductie.php
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Now for any type of jack or stand that I get - I take the recommended safe working load and add at least 50% to it.
Neil,
In fact when stands are made, they should be tested for a 50% overload. I prefer these newer type with the ratchet lock, rather than those with a pin through the hole. The ratchet ones are more variable in height and lock well with the weight on them. The pin type sometimes loose the correct pin and any old bolt or piece of rod gets substituted, which may not take the load and could possibly shear.
Richard
This is spot on regarding the pin type stands - although in my case the welds between the collar & the legs sheared when the axle came down as the jack failed.
Lucky I heard the sound of the seals going and that the vehicle collapse went the opposite way to the one I rolled in :shock:
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I thought of that - just a few major problems though:
1) The wife would likely kill me!
2) With an RM8 postcode getting insurance would be almost impossible
3) The drive would need to be ripped up and relaid with SUBSTANTIALLY deeper foundations ( you should see the indentations a Pajero left over 3 the space of three years....)
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One thing EVERY military vehicle owner needs is at least one pair of good heavy duty axle stands and a good jack,I use bottle jacks and will never use a trolly jack by choice after seeing one fail
As a word of caution here - I had a lucky escape a few years ago working under the back end of a Van Den Plas 4 Litre R when a botle jack and an axle stand both failed - both were rated at 2 tons and should have been more than adequate for the job. Now for any type of jack or stand that I get - I take the recommended safe working load and add at least 50% to it.
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Maps aren't too up to date in some areas though :cry:
This is home:
The area inside the yellow triangle is ours. The large white object on the drive is, as labelled, our old 1993 Abbey Oxford GT caravan. Immediately south of that is my old Saab 900 Carlsson - West of the Carlsson is a Saaab 95 and South of the carlsson is the old LWB series 2A LandRover we used to use as a tow car. taken all together they put the age of this photo at around no earlier than Dec 199 and no later than Oct 2001 - we bought the Carlsson and the caravan in Q3 1999 andswapped the landrover for a Citroen in 2001. Caravan was swapped for a new Abbey GTS in 2003
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hi lee,
i would but the missus would kill me for sure!!!!!!see you sunday
I thought I was the only one with that kind of problem!!!!
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Budget
in MV Chatter
This might help you:
http://
Just punch in your Reg No. and make and it gives you the required info!!
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If it's of any interest to any one - this apeared on MilWeb today:
1943 GMC LWB
Very tidy condition runs very well lots of new parts to vehicle in show order.
01427 874871
No price given though......
(didn't put this in the "For Sale" section as it's not a member sale!! - feel free to move it though...)
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How about Battle of the Bulge? All the 'King Tigers' are Patton tanks.
Mick
Lets be honest - even if they could have found enough real King Tigers the fuel bill for running them would likely have been greater than the films entire production budget
Could have done a better job in disguise though..............
A New Forum
in Future events and meetings
Posted
Thats novel - a website for a group dedicated to renacting a Britsh Army unit thats primarily in German????