cripp

:thanx: Joris, I haven't had a problem with those type of plates in the last 3 years.

Thanks fella's. Nick, I used Tony Sudds' Mat1. Sprayed as is, no thinning.

Time for stencils and paint mask's for the hood numbers. Fiddly things but with a bit of patience I got them done. One of those jobs were 2 good hands would come in handy. (see what I did there):-D Obviously I've skipped through the build as there was a lot more done than I've shown here. Had the MOT last Tuesday and went over to the DVLA on Friday. I'd only just started filling in the form when they called my number. 15 minutes later I had a tax disc and reg number. I think it helped that I had a few photo's with me. So off home to make some plates up and gave it a test run on Sunday. Found the manifold is blowing at the bottom. Have to sort that tomorrow. As I said this is a brief summary of the job, there was a lot more involved and still a few jobs to do. Here's how it turned out. I'm very happy with how it's turned out. Need to get the odd jobs finished and get using it, If you're interested there's more pictures here

More holes marked and drilled. Parts fitted and a few coats of OD Most of the holes in the dash are pre drilled but typically they are too small. I found the best way to bring them up to size was to go around them with a de-burring tool. Took a while but gave an even finish. If I'd have done it with a file I would probably end up with an egg shaped hole. Got some data plates stamped from Robert DeRuyter so they were fitted next. I had to get a new drivers seat. The couriers did a good job of bending it so that needed straightening before spraying and fitting.

Thanks Joris. Chris, I looked into that option but it wasn't the best route money wise. The engine is a 1943 one and was rebuilt a couple of years ago so I know it's good. Finding another one and getting it to that condition wouldn't be cheap. The gearbox and transfer box were done at the same time so I know they're good. I sold the chassis for almost the cost of the new one so no great expense there. The body kit was £1200. That is the majority of the cost. By the time I sell any spares that cost will come down.

Cheers Mark, I'll try and get there, still a few jobs to do.

:tup:: Thanks for the comments. The reason I went for the repro is because my old tub is Ford. If I had an original tub in need of repair I haven't got the room or the skills to do it.

These repro tubs aren't a perfect fit but they're not that far off. Lots of holes have to be drilled. Luckily I was lent a side panel as a template. I made a template for the other side. Some holes are gustimates, and I made some mistakes.:argh: Do out with the welder and get repairing. More to come

Next major job was the tub, so off to Telford for a repro. They well packaged if nothing else. Test fitting. Got the underneath seam sealed and sprayed ready for fitting. Interior was sprayed while on the floor as it was easier to get to the underside of the dash. Then the fitting started.

As this was lost in the metdown I thought I'd post again. Here's what I started with in February. First job was to get it painted. Next up, pick up the donor vehicle, and start stripping it down. Got it all stripped and got the axles and springs cleaned up ready for putting on the new chassis. Axles and springs on the new chassis. Next job was to change the thrust bearing as the old one sounded like a kids rattle. Engine and gearboxes bolted in place

No problem. Glad to help

The round clamp is for the pipe to muffler joint.

Here's a pic of the skid plate clamp The round clamp with a tail on it is for the tail pipe to the bracket. The round clamp is for the pipe to muffler joint.

Yes the U shaped clamp goes over the pipe on the front of the skid plate. I'll take some pictures of mine tomorrow to show you how the other clamps go.

Here's a picture showing the route. (Courtesy of Claude Pons) If you don't have the skid plate you could make a bracket with a piece of flat bar bolted to the cross member.

This is how to do a wedding :clap:

Excellent idea. :mailforyou:

Mail sent Jack.

I've got one. :cool2::cool2:

He should have them in stock. Can't remember the cost but I wouldn't think too dear. Give him a call on 01322863118.

Plenty of open fires at W&P. There is an insert available for that stove Jack, to make it a fuel burner rather than a wood burner.

When you unbolt the king pins, if the studs come out make sure you keep them in the same order as I think a couple are different sizes. I think they're dowel studs for keeping everything in the right spot. Once you've removed the king pins you should have some shims there. You can get new shim packs. Once everything is out the way you can get a drift and tap the bearing cups out. Some heat around the area may help but I don't think it was needed for mine. Knock them out by gently going around the cup, don't try banging it out just in one spot. Give the whole lot a good clean up. I got that polished look by using long strips of fine emery cloth. Like balling up a boot. :-D You can now put the new cups in. Sit them in place and gently work around the ring until they're fully seated. Once they're home you should get a nice ring when you tap it with a hammer. You could put them in the freezer for a while first to help them slip in. If your axle is on the jeep then this won't help you doing the bottom ones. You're ready to pack the bearings and put it all back together now. You may or may not need the new king pin. Mine were fine. All my spares come from Tony Sudds. When you put it all back together, the shims mentioned earlier come into play. You put an even amount of shims top and bottom, and bolt it up tight. Now you'll need a fishing scale or something similar. Hook it on the steering arm and pull. You should have a resistance of 4-6lbs (I need to check this is right) before it moves. If You don't have the correct resistance then add/remove shims as required. I've heard you can do it by having all the shims at the top until you get the right amount, then just split them evenly between top and bottom. Or as near even as you can. By the way this is done without the seals on the back of the knuckle. Once you put those on it will seem very hard to turn by hand but that's how it should be. Hope that makes sense.

These Bearings?

Clicky clicky for video

:sweat: