sirhc

A low loader seems a bit excessive for 35 miles, can you not drive it?

Don't the manufacturers bear the cost of the development of the product though ? Surely that 'cost' shouldn't be passed on to the final buyer (the MoD) ?.....

After all...there would be a veritable queue of companies lining up to offer goods of all descriptions to the MoD if they were told the MoD were going to pay the entire development /prototype / experimental costs ??? ..

...heck....come to think of it...I'd offer to tender for something if that was the case ???..

now then :cool2:..what can I build in my shed ?? :cool2:

Any product you buy from any manufacturer has had significant development work carried out to produce it. If your products are high volume then the cost of development spread over the number of products is small. If you are spending millions of pounds designing and developing an armoured vehicle and only a small number get made, then you would either want the customer to pay up front or the % of development cost in each vehicle price would be higher.

When we are talking about CVRTs you have to remember how small the numbers produced for the MoD are... 350 Scimitars, 300 Scorpions, 136 Sabres, 89 Strikers, only about 50 Samaritans etc

You can count them if you look on google maps satellite view. Definitely not 60!

My diesel Scimitar was rebuilt in 2008 and disposed of in 2011. The 'Gross Replacement Cost' on the Merlin report is £457198.85. We had a Sabre, 03FD10, which was rebuilt in 2001 and disposed of in 2004 and that had a replacement cost of £302986.08. As to what they were new, I think it's going to be more like £750,000. Look how much it cost to build the Scimitar 2s, £14million, and they used a stripped Scimitar for most of the bits!

Could be because it's moved from Future Events to Show Reports?

http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?36269-Wartime-in-the-Vale-22-amp-23-June-Ashdown-WW2-Camp-Evesham-Worcestershire

It might also help to know which 'armoured car' you were trying to insure!

We have a couple of Makerbots, and I seem to spend more time getting it working properly than it does printing!

Can we not do something during the W&P show

That's why this is in the W&P show section of the forum!

What type of grease gun do you use for track tensioning. I use the normal side lever type & it takes all the strength i possess to get the grease into the tensioning ram & tighten the tracks

It shouldn't be that hard, do the idler cranks move freely? I bought one that uses compressed air but I've not tried it yet.

Hi Tim,

Have you got the exhaust flexy pipes and y piece fitted yet? It's much easier to put those on before you put the engine in !!

Chris

Wally, please don't call it a clutch pedal! You are correct that you select a gear then use the pedal to change, but there is no clutch involved!

My gear change pedal was like that at first, we had to reset the busbar spring on the side of the gearbox. The fuel tank isn't too bad to remove, but you may have to take the turret off first.

Here's the first draft of my translation for your Vehicle History Card - do you have the Merlin history as that may provide some more information?

 

[ATTACH]77953[/ATTACH]

Peter,

The Sabre conversion was not done in 1981, it would have been done in 94/95. Maybe it had the Clansman conversion in 1981?

Chris

Hi Guy,

I had a bit of this with my Sabre, ending up with it breaking down at Beltring while doing a convoy of the site! I swapped the coil which seemed to help. Another thing to check would be the electronic ignition module.

Chris

There are a few Mk 4s about, there was one on eBay last year and I know of another complete one at least in the uk, plus a few in the US. There was a burnt out one for sale a while back too. Not as rare asthe Mk 5, I only know of 3 of those!

Sorry but the Marshaling has got to be questioned.. :shocked:

It certainly would have been safer to turn around and drive out than to reverse blindly into a crowd! Was that rubber flying off the tracks or mud?

James,

You'll have the engine ones with your recon engine, the 2 which go to the bulkhead from the heat exchanger are probably missing though.

Chris

Have a poke around the oil filter side of the engine bay, there should be a pair of threaded holes for the plugs.

No problem here using Internet explorer or Safari on the iPhone.

That's normal for infra red reflective paint, it always goes a pink colour when you rub it down.

This is the one I went for: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271186492331?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

You can also get a fuel sender unit to fit it. I've done this and a full tank reads half full on the original gauge, not perfect but better than guessing!

Yes the original tank is still in place. We tried to remove it and clean it several years ago, but we gave up and started using jerry cans. The new tank fits in the space behind the drop down seat back on the left as you look through the back door. It's only 70litres but should be enough for a good trip out.

Chris

You need to do this...

I'll have to dig out the manual on the weekend but I think you need to remove the blanking plate at the door end and fit one with a lifting attachment.

If you are still coming on Saturday I'll show you my new plastic tank.

Chris

Yes I wondered that, as the data plate inside says its OO EC 57

Yep it should say 00EC57 on the front and back. It was built as a 2/3 in 1964 according to Pat Wares book.

Looks very good. Shame the registration number has been put on wrong, it should be EC not FC.

Chris