fv1609

Ian I have had this on other forums. You can delete nearly all your post content but leave something behind. Try deleting the text but leave behind just say a full stop & it may work then.

Mike the immediate thing to do is to check that points gap is not too narrow. Broadly speaking a coil marked SW & CB is likely to be for +ve earth & those marked + & - for -ve earth, but there is no guarantee of this. For instance most screened coils are for -ve earth are marked SW & CB. But some earlier screened coils marked this way were for +ve earth. Unfortunately such coils are polarity identified with a sticky label. Why on earth they can't be polarity marked on the base where the date of manufacture & part number is stamped I do not know. The easiest way is to look up the part number & see its design polarity. I notice one company that seem to produce or at least sell what look to be high quality reproduction coils have the coils marked + & - so that you are told to simply connect it according to the polarity. With such advice & with no mention of design polarity, this seems to demonstrate a poor understanding of the products they have on offer. There is one way you could determine the design earth polarity. Although the are two coils they are connected in series to act as an auto transformer. In +ve earth coils CB is connected to the far end of the autotransformer from the HT terminal. In -ve earth coils SW is connected to the far end of the autotransformer from the HT terminal. You could very briefly connect say a PP3 9v battery across the primary & measure the polarity with respect to the HT terminal & SW & CB in turn. Mind your fingers though as the will be HT produced when the magnetic field collapses & the will also be 300v or so on the primary winding. You can see better how systems differ on page 3 & lists of coil polarities on page 90 & there is stuff about coil insulation on page 83-85 in this:

Despite the external similarity, note the provision for the bearings.

Although they have a passing visual similarity. They are not at all the same, the bearings are entirely different. A Humber owner would not be pleased to end up being sold these I'm afraid.

Pleased to see them not stood in front of the registration plate : )

They do have a similarity in appearance I grant you. The part numbers I quoted are for the hubs alone. I once did have 4 Humber hubs in sealed wooden boxes like yours & they were devoid of all ancillaries.

I'm not sure that this correct. I have the parts lists for Trailer 1 Ton (1956 & 1974) that gives the hub as FV8596 but Humber 1 Ton (1952 & 1960) give the hubs as FV174966 (RHS) & FV174967 (LHS)

I'm not sure that this correct. I have the parts lists for Trailer 1 Ton (1956 & 1974) that gives the hub as FV8596 but Humber 1 Ton (1952 & 1960) give the hubs as FV174966 (RHS) & FV174967 (LHS)

Presumably they all are as the ISPL only quotes one type of hub, unlike Humber that has different numbers for left & right.

Just a few further thoughts. What is the "cold" resistance of the primary? About 3 ohms? Is the charging system delivering no more that 13.8V? Is the dwell angle correct? ie Are the points closed for too long? How old is the coil? The thermal conductivity of the oil deteriorates with time. Or is it quite old & the insulation medium a sort of pitch? Those coils will usually have the primary wound first ie on the inside as one would expect given the name primary! But modern coils have the secondary wound first so that the primary is nearest the can & will dissipate heat better than an older coil as the primary winding is the main source of heat. From experiments I have done by heating coils by running them continuously up to working temperature & a bit beyond, I have found that the insulating properties of the oil deteriorates to such an extent that it is about a tenth of its cold insulation. The insulation of any winding (as they are all connected to each other) relative the case should be many gigohms at say 5kV when cold, so that once heated it will still perform adequately as an insulator. In addition to this not only does the thermal conductivity of the oil deteriorate with time so does its insulating properties, so once heated things get even worse. Another point, your vehicle is negative earth but is the coil designed for negative earth or is it a positive earth coil with the SW & CB connections reversed? This dodge is often done, because it is important to have a negative spark for good running. By using a positive earth coil the wrong way round you lose out on some HT. voltage. As the points open the magnetic field collapses inducing a high voltage in the secondary, but of course there is a voltage induced in the primary in the order of 300v. Any spark at the points should be minimised by an efficient condenser contribute to an abrupt switch off that optimises the HT output. This 300v is added to the HT output, but if you use a coil originally designed for a different earth polarity this 300v is out of phase & reduces the HT output by 300v. So using the wrong polarity coil means the HT is 600v less than would be achieved by a similar coil designed for the correct polarity. If you search the internet you can find references to this with the explanation that the primary winding senses this difference & adjusts itself accordingly! Well without the primary unwinding itself & rewinding again it is not possible! This is why there are coils designed specifically for either a negative earth system or a positive earth system. Sites that promote Prince of Darkness themes are usually the most likely to come up with these extraordinary suggestions. If you are going to GDSF I will have my test stuff with me & can test insulation up to 50 gigohms at 5kV, if you want anything tested. The other thing is that if you do decide to go for electronic ignition, you may well find that you have increased HT output. This on the face of it sounds good, but that can give rise to trouble as older style rotor arms, distributor caps, cables etc may not be able to withstand this extra voltage & the insulation may break down.

It cross references to a later codification 9BTR/2530-99-848-9995

It is for a 1 Ton Trailer FV2401 Series The VAOS Section LV9 is for Standardised British Land Vehicles (ie WD design) BTR is for trailers derived from B Vehicle TraileR

Even less chance if there are flags on them.

Phil the ignition 10A thermal cutout is housed in Box Distribution No.1 Mk 1 to the left of the Gen Panel. Look in the latest version of All Charged Up in the Ferret section I have drawn out a diagram of the associated wiring linking the units.

Yes £10 each not sure what the charge was for, perhaps it was for toilets?

Thank you for that. Although I was there for a week I never got to walk round the living history displays.

Yes there was a very large tracked armoured personnel carrier thing charging round that appeared to have no escorting vehicle or safety people preceding it.

Could we just dispel the belief that there was a wealth of Land Rover spares? There were only two dealers specialising in Land Rover parts. One selling spares for modern Land Rovers & the other a wide range bits from all eras. Most stalls seemed to be selling uniforms, associated accoutrements & weaponry.

Like so many things in life this show is not quite the same as it used to be, but at least it still runs. Obviously anyone not able to enjoy it for what it is would be ill advised to attend again. But I found it still a good meeting place for friends new & old that I wouldn't otherwise meet up with. A few bargains of documents & a radio. A lot of interesting people to talk to either at our display or looking at what others were displaying or selling. As for sanitary arrangements they seemed well serviced in the area we were in. So quite happy to come again another year.

Phil which Gen Panel is it?

Iain I'm in with Mike Buckley's lot in the same sort of spot, not just HF though. To the left you will see my yagis for 2m & 4m (using CW only). I see you are in Suffolk just before the light faded worked G4RHR on 2m who I see on QRZ boasts that there are no microphones in his station. Of course unlike the HF bands that become useless after dark I could have continued on 2m, but I was operating outdoors & it was still too hot to try to operate from the Rover.

The view from my operating position this evening.

Phil the ignition circuit is protected by a 10A cutout in the Distribution Panel No.1, which resets itself after a short while. It is not unknown for water to get & the contacts corrode. Despite this apparent open circuit the winding of the cutout is about 200 ohms still allows 24v to be picked up with a voltmeter. But of course with 200 ohms cannot deliver any useful current. Has the Ferret charging system been upgraded to alternator ie Generator No.10 Mk 3 & Gen Panel No.9 Mk 4? Or does it still have the dynamo ie Generator No.2 & Gen Panel No.2? If it this there are two fuses (one wire & one metal strip) These are found by unscrewing the mount that supports the two fording caps where you access the two micro-switches that are released when the fording caps are removed to limit the charging current whilst fording.

It was very hot today, which was a big disincentive to come & pay £20 to traipse around the stalls getting overheated. Much of today I spent with streaming eyes & a splitting headache lying under my vehicle wearing an S6 trying to counter the effects of hay fever. Tomorrow is destined to be even hotter at 35 deg C. So I suspect it may be quiet as well.

Early days yet. A lot of setting up going on. Looking forward to making the most of it.