fv1609

Send me your condenser & a SAE & I will test it on a Megger. Or bring it to Beltring for a test. http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/TESTINGCONDENSERSRW.pdf

When your pig went to NI for the last time probably approaching 10-15 years ago, it only had one wing. The original owner was way ahead of his time in NI displays, he also had a Ferret in IS configuration. He was a little nervous displaying this stuff at that time because the peace process was a long way off. I have some pictures just after it was sold to NI, the pics are just from its good side (ie the winged side) I'm not 100% certain but I think the wing was added when in private hands. The earlier pics may confirm this. It's unfortunate the various ebay sellers had misrepresented its paint scheme & role, so I appreciate the difficulties you have in separating fact from fantasy.

Roger just think of the fun you could have substituting this when the owner isn't looking & watching to see how long it takes for the fault to be found!

Paul, maybe now the barrel is 180 degrees out of synch?

Adam. You need a hot air gun, Stanley knife & a narrow screwdriver. I have removed the glass from vision blocks on Shorland & Hornet. There will be up to 9 layers of glass interleaved with translucent plastic. It is the plastic that goes opaque & spoils the vision. This sandwich of glass & plastic is held in there with sealant, probably resting on a rim of metal inside the holder to stop them being forced inwards. Warm up the sealant around the edge on the outside. Cut & gouge the sealant as if gets more pliable with heat. Don't prise the glass up as you will chip or crack it. It will be stuck to the glass with age & surface tension. Once the first layer is free around the edge, get all of the outer glass quite warm then with a piece of wood (not metal) try to move the glass horizontally to break the adhesion to the plastic. Access will get more difficult the further you get in. The other method is to still use a hot air gun to plasticise the sealant, but get large hacksaw blade to cut into the full thickness of the vision block. Then saw your way round all four sides of sealant so you can extract the complete glass sandwich en masse then separate the glass. This will then be easier as you can get directly at the edges with heat & leverage. I've just reread your post. If you mean remove not just the blocks but the window assembly with the blocks you need heat, WD40, hammer & garage crane. The block holders have small loops for attaching to a crane. I cannot lift one, I would leave them be.

Apart from the justifiable smugness of spotting what others couldn't spot. I suppose I could award you the actual connector that was used in the making of this docu/drama/quiz.

Paul the Champ one is the No.1 Mk1, which is what you should have. But in service could have been replaced by the Mk 6. I don't know what happened to Mks 2-5 they never get a mention. The most wear prone bit is the starter switch in the Mk 1 the terminals are brass & wear badly with time, mechanically & by arcing. The reassembly can be difficult with the linking contact being difficult to locate on the plastic barrel. The Mk 6 is a great improvement. The contacts are plated or of another metal & the linking contact has thin leaf spring behind it & centrally it is retained in place by its own little shaft into the main base plate. This maintains it in the correct centre of rotation, whereas the Mk 1 arrangement the contact deviates off axis as it wears more. The lighting switch is entirely different, not just the addition of convoy switching. But the switch on the Mk 1 has the contacts intergrated into the main base plate. Whereas the Mk 6 has total seperate slight that screws onto the base plate which has a hole for it. So there is no easy way to get a Mk 6 with its nicer ignition contact & downgrade it to look like Mk 1. I would (one at a time!) unplug every connector & if it doesn't need cleaning push it back in the double ended female connectors. Ensuring that there a firm plugging in feeling as you push them in. If not change the female connector or get some round jawed pliers & just give each end a slight nip so that it is a snap fit for the plug. Make sure that the rubber rim of the female overlaps the plug. This helps retain it mechanically & helps keep out the moisture.

Roger very well done! You have spotted what has been staring everyone in the face. At first glance it looks what we are expecting to see. It is not a fuse holder, it is a connector. But it is for the next size up of plug, the bullet connectors go in & are held there by the rubber rim but the electrical contact is poor or non-existant. When I reassembled it the first time the plug from the starter lead must have just made contact. When I reconnected it for the second time it was not making contact. But poking the prod from the bulb tester inside it touched the metal inner & gave the impression that all was well! Seen side by side you can see the difference. The correct one is the upper one the wrong is the lower one. When they are all hanging from the rats nest of wires it is not easy to spot. One tends to assume what you see is correct as that is what you expect to see. An Army workshop recently had this sort of problem on a vehicle. Some nitwit had not realised that those double connectors are all in the same circuit. They had thought that they were merely two seperate conectors just joined by rubber. None of us would do that I'm sure, but when you look at things it can appear normal! Well spotted eagle-eyed Roger!

A good suggestion, but there was not even any clicking from the solenoid. Yet it had all been working ok half an hour before.

I tested to find there is 24v inside that connector from the start lever when pressed. The connection to the junction box & then down to the starter is intact. The + & - supply to the starter motor are supplying power. But when I turn the start level it won't attempt to turn it. As Richard suggested it is a trick question, in a way it is but it was a trick that had me scratching my head for a while. Until I found the fault. I post it it here not just to tease but it could be a problem just waiting to happen for others!

I think that is an unworthy comment, particularly as this is a public forum & conveys an unhelpful image for us all. For some years I have been taking the Humber, which has a police history, to a private event held by Hants Constabulary. I have to say that I been met with an enormous amount of goodwill & interest at all levels.

But this is not ordnary wire, this is fibre reinforced wire! If you use an automatic wire stripper it will not cope with the fibre covering. There is a vast permutation of automotive wiring colours & tracer colours. It would be complicated to carry a complete stock of all combinations & expensive to manufacture with this quality of wire. Besides the colour codings for normal automotive functions doesn't take account of extra functions provided on a proper MV. Also if you didn't have the correct colour & trace colour what are you to do put in something that is the wrong colour to complicate it for some poor man in the future to be misled by. On manufacture the leads on the Switchboard & the recipient leads are fitted with yellow collars that are marked with their function. As Richard says these fade with time. I notice that some of the recipient leads are using collars that are made up from individual letters & digits. The leads on the left are for another unrelated function. The white labels I have just slipped on as there was some ambiguity & it is so easy to think that you will remember where they came from. So back to the problem. Having reassembled the switch & reconnected it all & knowing that all the switching functions previously worked, the starter motor now would not turn on. When I put a bulb test prod in the female connector it lights up when I press the start lever. When I trace the lead it connects to, it goes to the junction box with the ballast resistors to the starter itself. The starter has the 24v heavy duty supply working. But it won't start or click. Where is the fault?

It's not an availability question nor a corrosion issue. But it is a trick, because it caught me out. Having started to get a slightly dodgey ignition switch, I had to dismantle four Switchboards No.1 to verify what I was putting in was satisfactory. Having installed it & got all services working I found the light switch clicking was not quite correlating with the electrical switching. So I reassembled it. Then refitted it to find the starter wouldn't work. Mysterious? Yes.

The interesting thing about Holland 1 was that it had a rust treatment that failed. Do you remember Fertan organic rust converter? A major selling point used to be was that it had been used extensively to save Holland 1. But didn't seem to work out, "the anti-corosion treatment had failed." http://www.rnsubmus.co.uk/holland/conservation.htm

Holland 1?

Only this one left now I think actually that is the goat, haven't got a good picture of the ram. I have a device for removing oil filters that is a fibre strap that tensions up uniformly as you tug on it. Try a tiny bit of tightening & then try undoing, rocking back & forth to build up movement. I that doesn't work I have some wide curved jawed pliers that can be gently applied around the whole circumference of the cap just to very slightly squeeze it so that it crushes the rust. Then try back & forth jiggling. I think the top of the cap is hexagonal so you might get a spanner on to apply a non destructive force. They are very prone to rust. I fitted a brand new one (also used in some Scamells) of course the brake fluid has stripped most of the black paint of it & then the rust sets in! The trouble is my resevoir is only about 6 in from the roof. So you cannot see the fluid level & have dip the finger to see what is in there. Being so high it is difficult to fill & difficult to see if you have filled it until it overflows. As yours was a production pig, it is in a more sensible place.

No, but the primary should have a resistance of about 3 or 4 ohms. But take care because of the inductance it is possible to get a shock when doing it. I don't know precisely must the secondary is going to be a few hundred ohms. But there are other issues like shorted turns & leakage. What makes you think it has failed?

Mark that ebay one would certainly do, it equates to No.1 Mk 3. (I think it is wrongly described as a Scorpion coil which should be the No.6 Mk 1. But often people think something is more impressive if they say it is for a 'tank'.) But remember it is not a 24v coil it is only a 12v coil supplied by a couple of ballast resistors in the junction box that drop it down to 12v. Once you take the fancy bit off the end it seems to be able to accomodate a standard sized coil. So I would go to a motor factors & buy something off the shelf. Trouble is in this world of technology & nitwits, the person at the counter will ask you what car is it for! Many places can't help as "the computer" only works off the make & model. But I would have thought pretty much anything that is 12v would get you out of trouble.

Adam. Both manuals are useful to have they give a slightly different perspectives on things, I think I sold the pumps but I have seen the pipes around, not sure if there is anything on the other end!

Here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1952-military-humber-1-ton-army-truck-fv1601a-ex-wd_W0QQitemZ150265155357QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item150265155357&_trkparms=72%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C65%3A12&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 It is a FV1601 as he correctly says although he calls it a FV1601A. 'A' means it has no winch, so presumably the winch has been added later or maybe it is a FV1601B? His history on the production Humbers & the change of role to Pig for N.Ireland is confused. The production run for the 3,700 Humbers was from 1952 to 1956. The production run of the pig was 1958-60. The Army deployed Pigs in N.I. in 1969. 02 BK 32 entered service 3/3/53 struck off 14/12/64 & sold for £180 Shame about the rear body, but nice to see a Humber running but a bit of work needed "broken rear shaft" & "gearbox clicks in reverse". Although the Hornet clicks in reverse which hasn't shown itself to be a problem after 14 years.

Adam well maybe its the civilian RR book rather than the EMER. It's worth having both. But the RR book uses torque figures in in-lbs rather than ft-lbs. I remember that when I fitted a new flywheel & snapped a bolt! IPC = Illustrated Parts Catalogue

OEP220 or use EP90. But I would not recommend either for the transfer box due to heating problems. I found Comma EP80-90 solved the problem (that few owners are aware of). I assume you have EMER POWER S 520 series. You will also find other bits that are relevant in section P. This includes, generator, gen panel, junction box etc. The main vehicle series is in EMER WHEELED VEHICLES N250 & N250/2 (N 250 is gen Humber & Mk 1 Pig, whilst N 250/2 is Mk 2 Pig) User Handbook (Mk 1) is WO Code No.12246 IPC is WO Code No.12815 Servicing Schedule is WO Code No.13068 http://www.mark.clubaustin.co.uk/ (don’t be put off by the Austin bit he covers lots of vehicles) http://www.robvanmeel.nl/index.php (his website is not working at moment, was Groucho Publishing. At Beltring he had a stall & was selling reprint of EMER WHEELED VEHICLES N250 series) What really need for starters is the User Handbook & IPC.

Correct So probably the factory fitted dynamo I have some early type filters which probably won't fit yours. For the moment I would just wash out the felt filter in petrol. The later felt filters can be had at a price, but I have the equivalent for a paper element somewhere. While you are at it I would dismantle & clean the fuel filter in petrol. Sort of & also depends on the state of yours. I'm in no hurry, in the next five years is ok. If you come this way you should call in & see the two Humbers you haven't seen & look at the wing.

Thats unusual to have the single speed gen (Generator No.1) (12A output) in a Mk2 rather than the 2-speed I showed you (Generator No.2) (25A output). Your Generator Panel No.1 is simpler than the No.2 with all the covers & cutouts. Interestingly that Mk 2 there also had a Generator No.1, which was black suggesting it was the original dynamo fitted in the 1950s. It is commonly believed that all Mk 2 Pigs had the 2-speed generator. Both these examples demonstrate that this was not the case if the pig was a FV1611 the single generator system was left alone. Until it failed as there seemed to be no reconditioning of them they were then upgraded to the 2-speed generator. Similarly not all Mk 2 Pigs had a double servo, this was changed only as & when the brake system needed reworking or the pig was having a major overhaul. Actually there was Generator Panel No.1 for sale around on the Champ Camp. The panel looked as it had been removed from a FV1601. Good luck with the new diaphragms & you have drained all that petrolly oil out?