fv1609

Mike I expect the difference in readings is dependant on whether the points are open or not. In the first instance the points are open & you are charging up the capacitor in the distributor. In the second instance the points are closed & you are measuring the resistance of the primary of the ignition coil which is about 3.5 ohms. If it is running better with the filter bypassed then test that. The resistance should be less than 0.01 ohms. The capacitors would get pretty hot in use if they were succeeding in leaking LT to earth away from the coil. You could try removing them to eliminate them from the inquiries. (But in theory it could be illegal to remove interference suppression components if it results in raising levels of radiated interference above permitted EU levels:-\)

If you look at my profile, you might be right! On that basis I think I must be due for a full rebuild.

It seems in effect to be a 1-Ton chassis, before the 1-Ton was officially manufactured. It is serial no.9 which makes it the oldest surviving Shorland in the world. Will sit beside the Pig which is the oldest surviving Pig in the world.

Les, I never seen an ambulance with a winch before nor an EMER for it. There are EMERs for winches for Rovers in Wombat role, but don’t know about the purpose on an ambulance. There are some features that are EMER related that help to date the pictures. The EMERs are not on blue paper, so are not for immediate implementation, but as this is likely to be for the front line service, I assume all the mods are likely to be up to date. It appears to have a safety harness by the driver’s seat. -Jan 1971 Twin fog lamps – May 1971 Number plate moved to that upper position. – Apr 1969 Red Cross light still present. Removed – Mar 1977 Wing mirror moved to door hinge – Apr 71 So this puts it between May 1971 & March 1977 No doors for rapid exit was an early philosophy on many Rovers. VPK (Vehicle Protection Kit) were conceived in early 1971 some 8 kits had been made for Rover ambulances by the end of 1972. So I would say these photos were taken between mid 1971 to mid 1972. Am I right?

Tony & Paul you are very kind, but you don't see the answers that I go to post then think better of! Anyway I'm about to stick my neck out on the Rover ambulance thread & nobody has picked up on my suggestion that the white crosses may actually be yellow crosses on the Antar transporter thread.

This info is a bit early as it comes from an ASC manual, but I doubt that over the years that the development of biscuit containers was a high military priority. There were two sizes of biscuit tins. Biscuits, (50 lbs.), 1 canister (in case) Weight gross 70 1/2 lbs. cubical measurement of case 2 ft 6 ins Biscuits, (30 lbs.), 1 canister (in case) Weight gross 46 1/2 lbs. cubical measurement of case 1 ft 10 ins Here's a case for the 50 lbs canister, although it doesn't look very cubic. PS That was from an ASC manual dated 1903, looking at a RASC manual 1937 there is not much change. It gives examples of payloads: Biscuits, service, 50-lb cases, weight of package 79 lb. 85 can be carried on Lorry, 3-ton 42 can be carried on Lorry,30-cwt 17 can be carried on Motor van, 12-cwt or truck, GS

Maybe they were actually yellow crosses for the "enemy" forces?

Mk 1 Shorland on a 1965 S2A

Is there a mechanism that can be switched on to warn you that, while you are typing a reply that somebody else has already posted an answer? There was this facility on a previous forum. Sometimes I write a reply & then post it to find someone else has already answered it. So I have to delete my reply as its pointless or if I haven't noticed others will see the double answer & think I have just copied the answer that the person above has given. Often you see an answer given, but the same answer given by another poster below as well. At first it can appear they are being thick, but looking at the posting time they are often very close together. My answers often take a time to compose & have to be re-written several times to offset the dyslexia. If the old style warning came up when I was starting to prepare an answer it would save time with preparing an answer that I have to discard. So is there a button for this in mission control?

He does have the UH AC No. 12515 for the GS, so there is some commonality. His list of EMERs is not comprehensive notably WV N 255, 257, 258, 259 are missing but it is a good basis for anyone without any EMERs. To his credit he does actually use the proper nomenclature which helps pin down what documents are what. So often you see adverts for "workshop manual" - whatever that covers, or reference to EMER N 252 which is meaningless unless the subject is specified eg POWER, WHEELED VEHICLES, TRACKED VEHICLES, WORKSHOPS etc. These manual sellers provide a good service as it takes the heat off me, as I am often approached to just copy off some manuals & it could take an afternoon to go to a copy shop. But I expect most manual sellers scan them & once that is done it is print to order.

Chris is referring to the User Handbook WO Code No.12246 (Reprinted as Army Code No.12246) Adam is referring to the Technical Description EMER WHEELED VEHICLES N 252

I decided on the pressure washer option. I have no doubt steam washing is best but, the hire of that looks to be about £50 with VAT, I will have to travel 12-15 miles to get one, faff around in a shop then return it so that process could easily take 2 hours. Today is Sunday & I want to get on with it & avoid paying out! The problem was the pressure washer, was not being able to most of the target area. Before After Before After I haven't finished, but darkness stopped activities. I tried some carb cleaner on float assembly & that was useless. So I'll try the slow long steaming on everything tomorrow. The tank above the fuel level is a bit rusty from condensation. I'm wire brushing that. Now the tank is off is there anything I can "paint" it with to cover it up or do all these lining ultimately peel away & contribute to general detritus in the bottom of the tank?

Not that I was aware of, would you like to see my snaps then?

Paul, what can't you get off? The brake drums? You'll need a good 3-way puller to shift them...have you remembered to put it in gear in 4WD - to engage gearbox on from axle AND remembered to release the handbrake. There is mechanical linkage to the wheel cylinders, it's not like Land Rover with a brake on the transmission. If you are wanting to drop the whole rear axle assembly I have a wooden support plinth already made up you can have.

Did he fall in his own grave? :cool2:

Tony I'm not sure that many Shorlands did actually end up in Bosnia. There are lots of pictures of a blue turretless Shorland marked CNN. The reason is that it never did go to Bosnia as there was some export problem & it was for sale for several years. It has recently appeared on the market again painted but green. Kate Adie & TFI had Glover Webb, Hornets I think they called them, I've got some nice close ups somewhere when they were being serviced. I had a close look at Kate Adie's & was horrified that there was no armoured protection at the front or underneath. Plenty of crew protection but not much protection if you can't drive out of trouble because of a bullet through the engine. Thanks for offer of Pye speakers but I'm ok for those. (& yes I know there are bound to be some comical remarks relating to my second paragraph:cool2:)

I had thought of feeding the hot water supply into the pressure washer, then I thought maybe the thing won't withstand the heat. But even so I realise it won't be as good as steam. I'm tempted to put the tube from the steam wallpaper huffer into the tank & leave it for several hours & see if the gunge will creep out of the drain hole?

Thank you all. Trying to use things to hand really. I have a steam machine but its only good for huffing wall paper off. I think I'll try a pressure washer first that is bound to get something off. Then swishing boiling water around & see what that shifts. Although I wonder if the steam huffer left long enough fed into the tank would sweat if off so that the gunge would dribble out? Then I'll see what acetone type things do which I think might be similar to spray on carb cleaner which I suppose must help with dissolving petrol crud. Seeing all that gunge I am relieved that the carb is still working. But that does need a good dismantle anyway.

Yes that is my Shorland. No you didn't really spoil it, I was going to reveal all soon anyway. I was hoping for some overt criticism, but either people are too gentlemanly or not interested in the thread. Anyway after 12 years I had it running today not withstanding the fuel problem. I'm running it from a fuel can. I replaced the clutch master cylinder, so I could get it into neutral. Dispensed with the screened ignition system, changed the plugs. Turned it over by hand & put on a new battery, changed the flat tyre & I have driven 20 ft (10ft but with a return journey) Sounds very nice & smooth, no smoke. Not charging but thats for another day!

Oh you rotter! OK the game is up that is my Shorland. When it was in RUC service it was Rustoleum Green then Olive Drab. When the UDR took it over everything from the instrument panel to the road springs was high gloss Deep Bronze Green. The exterior had disruptive matt black & in its final days just NATO Green all over. When I rubbed it down, I photographed the black pattern & reproduced the same pattern very closely on the repaint. Going to shows I was told by some that this was wrong. It should either be all DBG or NATO Green + disruptive. I didn't mind being told I was wrong by people who had the b*lls to try to put me right, at least I could then put them right & show them the photos. The frustration was the people who wouldn't tell me I had done it 'wrong'. I could hear mumbles of discontent & suggestions of fantasy painting. But you can't walk up to people having a private conversation & interrupt. I suppose knowing how touchy people can be about their vehicle, they just walked on still thinking what a pathetic restoration. As for the original comms. There was one VHF whip on the rear off side. I am not sure what the radio was, Commers & Pigs used Pye Vanguards on 108 Mc/s. The Shorlands went into storage & were vandalised. Whatever radios they had they were removed. The UDR initially used Pye Bantams wedged into the dash, then A31 with the whip up through the turret. Then when the batches of Mk 3 Shorlands appeared Pye Westiminsters with an intercom system switched in. But mine came out of service with a plethora of antenna mounts & plywood mounting frames inside for various radios. I can only assume it had either a command role or was used in comms experiments. But to the untrained eye it can look the wrong colour & far too many radios!

I think the traverse issue could be reduced a bit by the use of angle adaptors in the bases on the roof. But all these bases are clearly excessive. The most striking thing is the paintwork. High gloss deep bronze green with disruptive matt black! I don't think I've seen another vehicle ever done like that!:eek:

I have taken the fuel tank off a vehicle that has been laid up for 12 years. The base of the tank has a layer of gunge, tar of some sort I suppose, how can I get rid of it? I can scrape at it with a stick & eventually it reveals the metal underneath is fine. As this is so tenacious do I actually have to remove it? Or will it either tend to dislodge in particles as I drive around or will it dissolve with new fuel & gum up the carb? Clearly I have to do something with the filler tube & the filter at the end as it won't let fuel through. Any ideas?

Some features you don't normally expect to see?

Richard, our postings crossed, but stuff like this makes me feel as outraged as that awful film about the capture of an enigma machine that was contrary to historical facts. A distortion of history that becomes implanted in the minds of an audience, oh I must go & calm down.

What does it show? Well now I have taken my extra doses of anti-hypertensives, anti-depressants & anti-convulscents I can venture some very restrained comments. This vehicle was once a Mk3 Shorland & has characteristics suggesting it was once part of a batch used by the UDR. Now I know if you own a vehicle, it is your vehicle and you can paint it whatever colour you like & make all sorts of embellishments to make it different or what is often called “looking the business”, whatever that means. It is nobody else’s business what they think of it, but I feel if you take it to a show, the public assume what they are seeing is a vehicle as it would have looked in service. If it has non-authentic embellishments I think it should be kept away from real restorations & vehicles that have been legitimately reconstructed to depict an actual role. Otherwise it seems almost fraudulent. I do feel so sorry for some model maker who may go off & make a copy or for owners in the future who will assume what they own is entirely genuine. The fact that I don’t like this ‘thing’ doesn’t matter, but what makes me incandescent is that it carries a badge of the Union Flag (which is in the wrong place anyway) & a badge of the Royal Armoured Corps. I find it insulting to the UK & RAC that these markings are displayed on a fantasy project to try to give it legitimacy. I must shut up otherwise I will implode, although it does actually make the painting of wheel nuts in various colours seem a triviality!