fv1609

I've glanced through my listings & can identify at least 25 variants with different Asset Codes that apply to that particular AESP sequence & for most of them there is a different CES. The catch is that that the CES is not in the AESP sequence but is an Army Code publication. But without knowing the Asset Code that is on the vehicle's data plate, it would take too long to list them all I'm afraid.

Asset Code or Equipment Code Number is an 8-digit identification for a precise vehicle (or mobile equipment) type & variant within that type eg there are in the order of 150 different Codes for just the old Defenders. Asset Codes used to be 11-digits (6+2+3) but changed over to the current system of 4+4 in 1967. Nowadays vehicle contract plates have the NSN as well. This is the 13-digit NATO Stock Number consisting of 4+2+3+4. The reason I was after the Asset Code is that I have some official catalogues of B & E Vehicles which are indexed by Asset Code. They lay out the documents available & dates of amendments.

I know various additives, accessories, devices & nonsense have been discussed before. But I don't remember mention of this one. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Save-gas-Better-fuel-consumption-all-car-motorbikes-/130469618436?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1e60986304 The feedback makes interesting & predictable reading. Although much of it is in foreign languages, there is a recurring theme of "non funziona !!" The curious thing is there is a lot of positive feedback. But when you read it you get the usual platitudes like: easy transaction, nice ebayer, pleasant to deal with, fast delivery, looks great but not yet fitted it to my car!!!!!! It would be more sensible to base feedback on whether it funzionas or not!

These are not in the AESP system but are Army Coded publications 21496 CES. Truck, Cargo, 4-Ton, 4x4, Bedford, MJP2BMO. Jan.1984 31496 CES. Truck, Cargo, 4 Tonne, 4x4, W/Turbo Charged Engine, Bedford MJPBMO etc. Aug.1998 31498 CES. Truck, Flat Platform, 4T, 4x4, W/Turbo Charged Engine, Bedford MJP2BMO. Feb.1996 PS There are some in AESP format. If you give me the Asset Code then I can define the document exactly.

You need AESP 2320-H-104-741. If it exists as an independent publication that is what it should be. However it may share the CES with a similar role vehicle of a different make. I have a large number of AESPs in that sequence but no -741, I also have the same sequence as FAESPs but again no -741

Those replying to the email circular, bear in mind that some of the replies are getting sent out to me & I assume everyone else on the mailing list:wow:

No tyre I'm afraid, but I do have some rims. No news on the tank yet. Make sure your replacement tyre matches the type on the same axle. For a Mk 2 a tyre marked "REINFORCED" or "L" is correct. Don't use one intended for a Mk 1 that will usually be marked "RF HS"

Can you tell me the vehicle Asset Code & I can dig out the details of what you need. NSN would do but that is not so easy to cross reference.

Dan The square protrusion on the roof is for unscrewing a plug about 3in diam that cover a hole in the roof. All Pigs were provided with these. The only application I have seen is for aerial cable to pass through to a ground mounted mast. This fitting later in NI it lent itself as a convenient mounting for Grenade Discharger No.11 Mk 1 often in conjunction with a spotlight. Yes you have the spring loaded device to push it out of 4WD when you move from 1st to 2nd. This was to ensure that it was put in 2WD automatically, but also prevented the 4WD lever being engaged by error eg by treading on it. The 4WD lever horizontal is 2WD, with it leaning 30 degrees down it is 4WD. The earlier version was a hole drilled through the end of the lever with a bolt supporting a length of U channel. When 2WD was engaged the channel fell vertically, blocking the lever from being depressed into 4WD. Yes the welding on just one side can be much poorer than the other. Of course any owner has the right to do whatever they choose with their vehicle etc & to suggest to someone they have a sort of duty to try to maintain its originality, particularly when it is bordering on a unique example, cuts no ice. But there will perhaps come a time when you decide to sell it, its financial value will be degraded the more originality is lost. I would bide your time before doing anything drastic this soon. The priority should be automotive soundness first, bodywork & fancy bits second. I checked the forum on the phone this afternoon but saw no reply. So I didn't bring the fuel tank back. The other person I am working with has a Pig friend who is after a tank as well so he offered it to him I'm afraid. I've only just got back so I'm not certain if he will have it or not. I'll keep you posted. Ok I've got a lower seat base for you, but the back part is a rarity. Not sure about a door handle, recently sold one. But I'll have a look.

I do have an original of FVRDE Specification 9543 if there is any detail you want checked out.

Dan always move off in 1st gear that puts you in 4WD. But there should be an auto-disengage spring-plunger to push it out of 4WD once you move out of 1st. Send me a picture of the 4WD lever & I'll tell you if that is or has ever been fitted. Instructions issued for Mk 2 to reduce rear axle strain was to reverse in 4WD. Otherwise don't stay in 4WD on the road. I was there watching the Pig destroy the pallet building. Although that was a Mk 1, I shouldn't think the Pig batted an eye lid, not much of a challenge to it at all. The squirting noise, is that from the ram or the pump? There are 4 screws on the top the pump. 3 are Allen heads, one is a hexagonal head - that one is the filler plug. I would top that up with hydraulic fluid & make sure they are all tight. The horizontal knob is the pressure release control. I would turn it back & forth to make sure it moves freely. Then turn it fully clockwise & then pump & see what happens. Those vision blocks are extremely heavy. It is a struggle for two people to carry. Never trust the integrity of the hydraulics. If you ever have to put a finger or a hand through the hole assume it may collapse & prop it up with a sturdy block of wood. I have exploded drawings if you get stuck. Clean it all up & try to spot if there are any leaks. I think I can find a good take off-tank for £50 - I need to know tonight ideally if you want one I can collect it tomorrow.

I think you will find that this is a TRAILER, 2 TON, 4W/2L, OFFICE (FV2502W) to FVRDE Spec 9543. It's possible it could be a later version on a FV2505. Sometimes several manufacturers could provide similar trailers under different contracts & sometimes one manufacturer would provide the chassis & another company provide the body.

Yes Chris.

Yes anti RPG. Op Kremlin done in two phases Kremlin 1 & Kremlin 2, mainly Saracen, but there were some Pigs. Don't think I've seen a privately owned one though.

Interesting you can have first hand accounts of them in action. I assume that the interior white gloss is for visibility & can be wiped down easily with disinfectant. I am 10 mi SW Salisbury. New drivers seat bottom £20 (look back through old for sale posts of mine for pics) Would be a shame to chop off armour it will reduce the historical accuracy & hence value ultimately especially on such a rare vehicle. The only orther Mk 2 FV1613 is at AMS Museum, Keogh Barracks, near Aldershot. The armour in Op Bracelet Sept 1972 - July 1973 was put on by two teams working either side of the Pig. The quality depended on the skill of the welders, in some cases these were clerical staff, orderlies etc working long hours even during the 3-day-week trying to give the lads extra protection.

Dan, well done for saving that one. Have a look around & let me know what you need, I may have some bits & pieces. I see you will need a new driver's seat, I can help you there. I see a tank is out, I have some spare tanks & the mesh guards for underneath. I also have parts books & EMERs. The 'commander's' seat is interesting, looks more like an office or RT operators seat. I suspect this is for a medical attendant to swivel round & attend to a casualty eg to maintain an airway. When you get a chance it would be nice to see some pics of that. Whether you need any items from me or not, I'm happy to show you around my Pig in terms of what to do in terms of servicing. Although I could send Deputy Fowler to give you a guided servicing tour around yours (apparently he did win the W&P Humber prize, whereas I did not)

Ken make sure you relieve the tension on both screws on each of the main terminals.

Ken I have a new one. Of those two advertised the first one looks a bit grubby if you zoom in on the teeth they look maybe a bit worn & the second one is stated to be used. If you want the peace of mind of a new one it is £75. It is collect only, it is in Reading at the moment which is why I can't show you a photo, or I can bring it back to Salisbury at the weekend.

Malcolm yes doing is learning, reading is helpful but it doesn't have the same impact.

Malcolm, sorry to hear of the problems. But it is unusual to find such precise & comprehensive symptoms laid out together with the steps you have taken to diagnose it. So often I see posts of the type "My Landy's not charging, what do you think is wrong" with no information as to whether it is 12v or 24v, 40A or 90A nor the basis of the "not charging". Anyway no such problems with you post. Intermittents are a pain! Digital meters are a pain! Your Test 2 As you have a Mk 3 Generator you are stuck with having to test two diodes in series. As you realise measuring a diode with a multimeter will not have enough voltage to drive the diode to conduct & here you have two in series. Although it sounds promising that on the diode test position it is forward biasing both diodes into conduction. But of course measuring between X & W you are measuring 3 pairs of diodes in parallel. One could conceive all sorts of scenarios where just one diode in each pair is defective either open or short circuited yet would pass the diode test on the meter. Indeed even more depressingly the two other pairs may have similar problems. So a digit diode function may reveal less than an analogue resistance reading. A way round this, to test less diodes would be to follow the "Testing the diodes without a meter" paragraph. Your Test 3 A little bit of 'no circuit' is ok. I have had readings 15-30 ohms but above that does point to brushes. Before dismantling the alternator, I would try to measure its outputs. Take the lid off the Gen Panel. See if you can pick up a healthy 28v or so when revving on test point T4. See if it is still as good on T1 (ie is the relay switching it) If it is not see if it has a similar voltage on T3 (that supplies the relay winding) If not try T2. Let me know what happens.

Insulation & attending to gaps is certainly important. One shed for one vehicle had a corrugated steel roof, last winter I put 4in of polysterene held up with sheets of ply. I had to put up more cross struts to support the ply sheets as there was a limit to the size of sheet the two of us could handle. So that cost nearly £500, but that is only 1/5 of the total shed roofage. But it helped a lot, although the bodywork of the vehicle in there is not wet the chassis is dripping. Gaps under the door are a problem as the sheds although level have sloping ground outside. So in order to open the doors fully they are not flush with the floor when closed. The gap is made up by strips of PVC flooring battened along the lower edges. Although that starts off ok, the trouble is that UV & frost takes its toll & you can see in the last photo where is has become brittle & fractured. The gaps around the outside are at present covered with folded up tarpaulins. I know for optimum results I should insulate all the walls, doors & ceilings. The point I was really aiming at was the poor performance of compressor/CFC machines at 'garage' temperatures. It was reading this that made the penny drop: http://www.dehumidifiersuk.com/g/48014/guide-to-garage-dehumidifiers-.html

I’m fed up with condensation oozing from everything stored in my sheds! I have 4 vehicles in 3 sheds, for many years I have had a dehumidifier running continually in each shed. Every couple of years one packs up & I buy another, the frequency of them packing up has increased in recent years as dehumidifiers get better “designed” (Apparent design that is, so that they look smarter & no longer resemble a metal box on wheels) It is so depressing to find everything dripping wet, vehicles & tools rusting away, leather, overalls & gasket paper etc just going mouldy. Although these machines have been on continuous drainage, I have reverted to collecting the water in the machine itself. This is to assess just how much water is actually being collected & the results have been alarming. Some smartly designed dehumidifiers at work. The problem is that these compressor machines act in a similar way to a fridge. The result is that at temperatures below 15 deg C they are very inefficient. Most garages & sheds are well below this sort of temperature for most of the time. In my sheds this afternoon the temperature has been 5 deg C falling 1 deg C tonight. During a 5 hour test period I collected not one drop of water! The reason being that the insides are frozen up by the way in which the thing works, with a low ambient temperature the chance to defrost is nil, unless it is a sophisticated model with a heating system to aid defrosting. However desiccant dehumidifiers work on a different principle & can function satisfactorily down to 1 deg C. (I’m not referring to desiccant crystals that fit it a plastic container & put in a wardrobe to absorb moisture by then turning damp & dissolving) I had one desiccant dehumidifier & had that running this afternoon. I also bought two more of these yellow things. The yellow ones are made by Ebac & are marketed by different companies often with different model numbers. But these from Wickes were up to £35 cheaper than some suppliers. During the same period these three machines collected about 1.5 pints each. These three were in the larger shed where a fancy white one collected nothing. Also in the shed was one compressor type & that managed to collect about 1.5 pints as well. The difference with this one I think is that it is about 15 years has been designed as a machine first & foremost, then a metal box has been fitted over it. Looking at the rear the coolant pipework is well spaced out, not the case in the workings of the white designer ones where the works are crowded inside, so much so that in cold weather sheets of ice smother the output holes confirming its inability to cope. I had been thinking of forking out for an industrial unit, however all but the very expensive ones (over £1k) are compressor types. So I think tomorrow I shall be buying a third yellow one whilst I look forward to warmer times. How do other people cope?

Merlin, yes well observed with the dents. I understand what you & others are thinking that it might be for some sort of ram. Although the Shorland has armour hidden under the wings around the engine & the footwells I don't think that a Shorland would be man enough to be able to ram barricades. If it attempted that then the normal Land Rover wings would be destroyed & any ram could become unfastened by twisting at this single fixing point. Let alone the consequences for the non run-flat tyres. I tend to think it might be for fixing some guard of steel struts that were to prevent things hurled at the vehicle from causing it to become immobile by bellying on things like aluminium beer kegs. I have looked at my Shorland. I can find no evidence now or from earlier photos of this knobbly thing having been fitted. However I have used the original no. plate bracket mounted where it was in RUC service ie above the bumper. The holes drilled into it exactly match a set of holes on the underside of the bumper. There are no matching dents on the bumper to show damage from supporting the guard. But there would only have been damage if there was some significant impact from a heavy object hurled at it. So I don't know whether the Army fitted this to all the exRUC Shorlands or just some but moved the no. plates down in case one of theses fitments was fitted. Because the RUC no. plates were above the bumper it is difficult to find photos that show this area. But here is Shorland that was so badly vandalised (it was burnt out whilst in storage) that it never entered Army service & has no sign of a knobbly thing.

I'm not sure that it is suitable enough to engage a recovery attachment unless perhaps it had a latching mechanism? The other thing is, this obliquely mounted plate is only supported by 2 bolts into the chassis. Although it is a devil of a thing to fit & it would I suppose not pop out even if the bolt fixings failed. But it does seem a possibility because when the Army took over these Shorlands the registration plate was moved to below the bumper as if to give access to the knobbly thing. When the Mk 3 Shorlands came along, with no knobbly thing the registration plate was in the normal Rover position on top of the bumper.

This is not a quiz, I don't know the answer. I have studied these images periodically over a 25 year period but still none the wiser. What are the knobbly things on fronts of these Mk 1 Shorlands? When they were in RUC service there were no such fittings but they are seen here in service with 3 Battalion UDR circa 1974 in Ballykinlar, County Down. I have never seen any other UDR Shorlands either Mk 1 or Mk 3 which such fittings. The object is mounted on the front valence plate which is 8.25mm armour & is to protect the lower part of the engine from frontal attack. On the Mk 1 the plate is flat but bent to an angle & mounted obliquely, on the Mk 3 it is curved.