fv1609

Dave I don't whether it was all working then suddenly didn't work or whether you are doing a restoration & hitting problems. The traditional flasher relies on the heating of a hot wire or a bi-metallic strip due to the current drawn through it. This is determined by the load the bulbs present. If they are not drawing enough current there is not enough heat & it will stay on for one pair of bulbs. So it is important that the rated bulb voltage & wattage is fitted. If that is ok & you say you have checked the earth, I would be tempted to verify what that the earth points are really as sound as you want. I appreciate there must be some sort of earth as the bulbs would light up.A multimeter or buzzer can show that you seem to have a satisfactory earth but if you have a poor earth return of a few ohms it will seem ok with the meter & reduce the bulb brightness just a little but may just be below the threshold to make the flasher switch heat up. I would take a lead from the earth side of your front & rear bulbs that come on & connect them directly to the negative terminal of the battery. If it then works properly disconnect one of the leads & whichever re-establishes the fault has the defective earth. With Rovers it is so easy for corrosion to set in with steel & bits of alloy riveted together for earths to go high resistance.

Depends where you are. June is full for me & I miss some I would like to attend. Yet apart from W&PR in July & early August is bit thin for me.

If you want to get it going I have all the circuit diagrams & PCB layouts. Its covered in: EMER TELECOMMUNICATIONS B460-B469 Infra-Red Vehicle Mounted Detector I have actually got the head mounted version but never tried it out.

I'll tell you at the Purbeck Rally :-X

Page 10 in this: http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/Tabby03.pdf

IR sensor to find out if someone is looking at you with active IR vision

Steve you can get it done free by making a Freedom of Information request

Bob have you got a picture?

Jak I've done it & passed it on to Lee, who'll put it up with the other Rover CES when he gets a chance. If you are bursting with curiosity PM me your email & I'll forward it.

I see I do have a 1986 edition of this. I'll try & find it then post it up on the forum with the other Rover CES.

Jak I can't find 2320998937004 although 2320998937003 is listed which is pretty close. So you need to look for Army Code No.31750

Jak I started to say in theory you need to look out for AESP 2320-D-122-741 but curiously that was never published. The CES was still published in Army Coded publications. But there were 5 CES for FFR TUMs so I need to know your vehicle's Asset Code or NSN to tell you the correct one.

Richard they are pretty confused already

I just HAD to buy this

If you use Gmail & are now getting pestered by Google who seem to have by default put you up for meeting strangers and you don't want to do this. Then this will help: http://blogs.wsj.com/digits/2014/01/10/how-to-opt-out-strangers-in-google-plus-gmail-inbox/ If like twitting & facing maybe that extra circle of Google+ contacts will be just fine, but count me OUT. :argh:

I hope so I've just loaded up the Land Rover with stuff. Although there is rain forecast for tomorrow it looks as it will be in the afternoon, so we should be alright

Officially: Connector, No.1 Mk 1, LV6MT4/5995-99-805-0039 FV157951

Warner socket Identify the earth one, opposite that is tail. Clockwise of earth it is brake & anticlockwise of earth is convoy

Pleased to see it drives well

Yes it is. Somewhere I have some pictures with the full kit inside. This is not just teeth but maxilla-facial injuries.

Shan the only mods I did to mine was to remove the gun rack as I have no interest in guns & to remove the FFR "Dexion" racking. That meant I could climb from the cab to the rear, very handy when its raining. When I sold it I just put it back again. A worthwhile mod was to fit a fluorescent penthouse light to the roll bar front & rear. You cannot use the clamps provided that are designed to fit the poles on tentage even if you file them they will not clamp properly. What I did was to use a U shaped exhaust clamp & fit one at each end of the penthouse light.

Some sellers like to peddle these as winterisation or arctic kits which is nonsense. They would be pretty ineffective for that, the thin foam is just to give some support to the aluminium covering. They were only to be fitted to FFR vehicles for RF radiation protection purposes. Although I admit they are also quite handy for reducing condensation & giving a more cosy feel to the inside. Kits for the 90 are out there but extremely rare at the moment. I fitted the 110 kit to my 90. The front piece is the same, but you need to omit the middle section as the rear section has the straps. You will find rear section will have quite a few gaps but will do until the proper thing turns up. With my middle section I cut it up & made blackout pieces to go inside the windscreen & side door windows.

Probably worth asking on here (don't be put off by name!): http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/rsoles/info

So Richard are you saying it came from the Far East or the RAF? Oh dear sorry wrong thread

Made by both Brockhouse & Sankey. The small brass sign is an unladen centre of gravity marker. PS As for price a lot depends on the state of the tyres. I have a similar trailer but with a cipher office 8 years or so ago it cost £450 to get 2 tyres fitted. So factor that in your offer, the treads were fine but cracking was the worry.