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flandersflyer

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Everything posted by flandersflyer

  1. its the SM U26 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SM_U-26
  2. Not a tank but... SM U21 This Uboat was deliberately sunk by its crew to prevent its surrender after Nov 11 1918 There was a recent documentary where a Uboat was located in the north sea after fishermen trawling the area were reporting snagging nets on something extremely hard where there shouldn`t have been anything upon sending a dive team down ..there it was.... a completely intact Uboat from WW1 in excellent general condition now..if it is the SM U21...then it isn`t a war grave so...hmm...:cool2: the salvage of the century...i would say.... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SM_U-21_(Germany)
  3. I remember back in the 80s there was a bren gun carrier & M10 tank destroyer at Thorp Arch...near Wetherby...amongst other bits n bobs they`d both been turned into playground stuff for kids.... wonder if they`r still there?
  4. is that a forged item? If so then have you altered the grain structure by heating? did you allow it to cool slowly?
  5. are these generally stable then when working on capacity? do you get a true 90* all the way across when putting returns on sheet? or do you find yourself going to 90* for the centre of any sheet being worked...then bringing back the ends to 90* with the tressle & copper hammer method? mind you at the place i worked they had all stuff like guillotene`s, iron workers, rollers & brake presses...
  6. so...you think its a form of ductile iron then?
  7. it`l be to do with what Gordon says. Cast has poor shear & tension strength....very good on compression. lets not forget that the iron used in this diff will not be of the same grade as you can get now either....
  8. possibly a steam truck....such as the Garrett undertype...perhaps...
  9. we dont do `em cold.....rivets work on contraction see.... and i dont know where 19 tons has come from for hot setting...... you needs to get it white....it`l set lovely then ...without much force at all....
  10. make up another rivet out of some bar end. get it white with the bottles and use the press to set it in....
  11. no..it isn`t. you need really clean metal for argon.... MIG will burn through most of the kind of surface contamination he can expect with what he`s working on. An argon set would be good for the tinwork....as its a very localised heat which wont distort sheet materials when doing long runs....either that or stitch it with the MIG plant...
  12. He might be as well using iron powder rods for some of the heavier stuff. and you dont need a heated quiver with em either....you can just set the plant up on low amps...then stab the rod onto some scrap...that`l warm it up... we used to get some portugese powder rods that struck lovely...and lay`d in a lovely fillet.... ESAB powder rods tend to conk out half way down if they`r not pre-heated....
  13. I`ll tell you what Steve.. your doing really will to get any kind of dimensions of what you`v had in regards to original parts (or whats left of em)... i can imagine it being a real pain taking a measurement...then getting things `size` sometimes here... and its coming along well by the way....
  14. no guards or interlocks on any of them presstools... you`d get lynched for running a shop like that now.... i wonder if they had a press register back in them days?
  15. caus its a facing & boring lathe...for swinging large billets...
  16. would the fronts have been faced off originally?
  17. they may have done when new.....but as wear took its toll the shims were removed to take up any slap... it would seem prefectly sensible to have used shims.....let us not forget that it was the fitter that made it all work smoothly back in them days...
  18. i`m not being funny or owt....but have you not considered machining these cam followers from billets....rather than going for cast... its just that you may get problems again in the future....
  19. so...shouldn`t be long then til you can bang some juice in it.....a video of a bench run would be nice...:cool2:
  20. I`v heard Coca Cola does it as well.....
  21. they do copper cylinder tops n bottoms as well like this.....for your hot water cylinders you have at home.....
  22. my hands are doing OK thank you very much.... got some of that O`keefes stuff....seems to be helping...
  23. was working once at this place.....all it were was O/D`ing and facing off some stainless blanks.... they`d come in straight off being parted off on a big oil country stanley... then we`d swing em in a ward 7... the razor sharp edges like sawblades at 1500 or so RPM... they cut yer gloves to ribbons just mountin em.....lol...
  24. get yourself some of that oak Steve and make up 2 blocks....tapered.... find a way of fixing the 2 blocks together with the tapers facing each other....then swing them and get an O/D for size... should make extracting the spun form easier....if you use a bit of allthread epoxied into one of the oak blocks....you can then use a nut to hold the other one to it....get the nut chuckside....then you just back the nut off....and the form should release...thus allowing extraction of the spun part....
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