flandersflyer

just another thought as well.... if the crown is to be flat then do the final cut from the centre out..... outside in can put a taper on a face.....

`war finish` refers to WW2...thats what you have here.... check the linear slides for slap....you can take this up with the lock screws on the gib strips....but not too much...or it will lock up where the slideways havn`t worn.... WW1 machine tools were nearly all line driven.....that is to say flat belts from overhead linedrives the likes of which you can see in old pics of mills.... this was the norm back then...with one very large steam plant driving it all via ropes here: http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Ormerod_Brothers

yes....the central division of the stirling`s bomb bay limited it to 2000LB ordnance... if you look at the angle of attack of the wings....this severe angle was needed to get the thing off the ground... thats what the high undercarrage was all about as well... the stirling in many ways was the `nearly` aircraft....the RAF learned a lot of invaluable experience with it in how to handle large numbers of heavys.... there were some crews though who swore by it..... to summerise... yes, it did have some limitations....mostly imposed by short sightedness within the air ministry.... but it served in drop roles such as market garden and for dropping SOE operatives where its under turret mounting proved useful for bailing out of.....

its a shame theres no stirlings left really isn`t it..... they were giants as well....:

they may have used a hydraulic bolster to set `em...

anyway....sorry but i run the risk here of hijacking this thread if i`m not careful.... and I (and i am sure others as well) want to see n hear more about the thornycroft....

theres some guys that go under the heading of `the vintage aviator LTD`...their based on new zealand.... they managed to grab the Beardmore from out of a shed in south america where apparantly a couple of FE2.bs ended up after the war... here: http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/taxonomy/term/199 http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/projects/beardmore-engine/beardmore-engine-build http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/projects/mercedes-engine/mercedes-engine-restoration http://thevintageaviator.co.nz/projects/oberursel-engine/oberursel-ur-ii-rotary-engine-build-history i think as the war ground endlessly on the general quality of equipment would`v been `just enough`....take the hispano suiza engine for instance....the french didn`t really have the time to get it reliable.....its a case of how many units can you get to the front...it doesn`t matter if they dont last as the avarage life expectancy of an RFC pilot during `bloody april` was 2 weeks....yes thats 14 days..... the hispo was a motor with a lot of potential....but it was the wolseley company that got it to run right...then sold it as the wolseley viper here: the germans also had their own problems to contend with....they were using a synthetic oil...but their rotary engines such as the oberursel and particularly the siemens halske didn`t like it...

well most of the `heavys` guns would be ranged on known map references...such as jumping off points and ammunition dumps...these places were often refered to as `windy corner`....and were usually well behind the front line..... even `TOC H` was well within range of shelling.... TOC H was a rest and refuge from the noise and bombardment of `modern scientific war`.. The tank `Fray Bentos` ( a mark IV male) went on a bit of an odysey around no mans land and the german lines...Fray Bentos held out for 3 days after bogging down....apparantly there were german soldiers crawling over it trying to get in.....

I wonder if the crew of `Fray Bentos` thought this?

take a look at the beardmore engine then here: is this enough brass n shiny bits for you?..lol these were fitted to the FE.2b aircraft....which was an artillary flyer/observation aircraft used by the RFC during WW1. Beardmore were from Glasgow and their engines had a reputation for being very reliable and of good workmanship. to the O/P: how do you find the general construction & design of the Thornycroft in comparison to the Dennis? from where I am looking I would say the thornycroft was a superior product....but then again I can only speculate as I am not there on the scene to witness construction close up.. although the pics and talk you are providing is outstanding and will in itself prove to be an important historical document in time. Keep it coming fellas. Glenn. GLMelectrical

I enjoyed watching all the solutions that the guys came up with...such as the pattern making and the lathe work... i remember about 20 years ago when i was living in shrewsbury for a while...there was this scrappers out on the edge of town.... now, i had a little look about that place and it was full of old stuff....i bet you there was some of these old truck chassis and various other items there.... think its gone now though that place... I used to work in fabrications about 8 years ago before i got into sparkying....at that time i was working as a plater/welder and as was quite rightly pointed out in the Dennis thread old cast can be a pig to weld....it can tend to just gas up and not take.... but you can always TIG it with argon gas and de-oxidised stainless rod....welds cast lovely does stainless...and you wont need to preheat the casting either when using the TIG process as its a really localised heat...but if using nickel rods with a stick plant....then you will need to take the chill out of the casting first....and theres a correct way to do it: always start on the outside with the heating torch in a circular motion and gradually work inward till the area you wish to weld is a dull red....never work from the centre outward as this can cause the casting to develop stress fractures that will only become apparant after its all cooled down...once its all a dull red then start getting them fillets in....as soon as the casting has been welded re-heat to a dull red then chuck a load of dry sand over the welded area....so it can all normalise gradually...if it cools down too rapid then it can develop stresses and crack...or the weld can seperate and never..never quench any weld....but particularly cast..... You can repair ally with TIG...but it has to be really clean beforehand so a good buff with a scotchbrite pad....and dont forget of course you need to be in AC to weld aluminium:)

it may be a phase shifter

hi... just signed up after some time spent reading about the guys in devon with the dennis.... i myself work as an electrician but have a keen interest in old technology and WW1 aviation...in fact anything really from that era... i`m particularly interested in early engines and the like.. anyway....thanks for taking the time to read my first post. Glenn.:-)