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Hoseman last won the day on March 18

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About Hoseman

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    Wirral, Merseyside
  • Occupation
    Hydraulics Engineer

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  1. IWM MANCHESTER has a turret display, maybe a contact for parts? you on Facebook? Go on a site called CAMFOLLOWERS, speak to a guy called TREVOR WILLIAMS (good friend of mine) what and who he doesn’t know ain’t worth knowing. Great guy. Very knowledgeable and helpful. Tell him ‘EL DUTTO’ (nothing rude, his nickname for me as I’m always holidaying in Mexico!) hope this helps
  2. The leak slowing down could be due to the casting expanding with heat.
  3. ECU’s and modern electronics, the bane of any vehicle builder! go old school, no electronics . . . . Points, condenser can be changed to electronics if need be, but problems with ECU’s, modules and plug n plays. Plenty of old school 6 cylinders out there if needed
  4. I will try my best to help . . . . as mentioned above, maybe a too rigid hose. Has it a steel helic inside? (Wire support) then you need single bolt hose clamps to secure. Too modern for the Thorny. swap for a fabric braided hose section, the helix is only there to prevent hose collapse, a short section like this doesn’t need it, so just a fabric braid is fine. Normally in 1m sections. Give me the ID and I can source for you, but try an industrial hose supplier rather than a hydraulics one. Cheaper too. Other option is a smear of clear silicone on the pipe when you put the hose on. Have the steel pipe sections got a swage on the edge? To secure the hose and the clamp. PM if I can help in any way guys, my pleasure after all the years of ‘entertainment ‘ you have given us!
  5. Ah yes, Pirtek . . .lol i was senior engineer for them here in North West for 10 years. They not doing it out of the goodness of their own hearts, trust me. You CAN re use some fittings, just need to be careful. We re end hoses and re use if we need to, anything to get the customer up and running. Compression fittings are different if you cutting the steel tube back to good metal.
  6. Yeah, they still available you get stuck. Be careful reusing fittings over and over again because of the ‘tail crush’. It weakens the crimp and makes the assembly’s unsafe.
  7. Used to use Poclains quite a bit, they are still available tho. We don’t stock them as no demand but can get them. Is it the threaded fittings or the flanges with the cone?
  8. Yes, it’s the ends that are the problem. I can make these with enough orders and all are pressure tested afterwards to be sure (1.5 X working pressure) had a look at friends Sabre last night to check their exact locations on gearbox / engine etc. His were all frayed and cracked, so first set ordered before it goes to Catterick!
  9. Thanks You Diana. The fittings took some finding and ended up going to the sole MOD manufacturer, who only had a few left in stock. If the demand for sets or individual hoses is there for the CVRT and derivatives, I am looking at getting the ends made. As a pattern, I would need the old hose at first. As for other vehicles, if you PM me or even better, email me on paul@rapidhydraulics.co.uk See what I can do. If any clubs or societies want to pool their resources and see about getting sets made up to patterns. Paul
  10. Sorry for delay John, had load on and workshop jobs are on hold. measured the spare legs I’ve got, Long leg 30 1/2” long overall, 1” ID, 1 3/8” OD. Round base 4” diameter bout 1/8” thick. Two holes, First hole 7 1/2” from base, second hole 24 1/2” from base Short leg 24” long overall, same diameter as long leg and base. Three holes, first hole 8 1/2” from base, second 13” from base and last 20” from base. This one has the open end capped off with welded plate where is the long one has open end. i made mine out of heavier gauge tube as they get bent easily and thicker base. I capped both mine off on top to keep crap out. hope this helps. 👍
  11. Will do John, have to get to workshop this weekend and have a look. Im looking for a spare lunette for a second trailer if you see one on your travels. As I rebuilt most of mine from scratch using pics, parts lists and dimensions from friends, I upgraded my steadies as I had to fabricate new drawbar and mounts anyway. I’ve used a heavier tube as originals tend to bend let you know later
  12. The 3/8 bps holes are original drain holes. Just use brass plugs from underneath. Stress fractures were on mine too, but as I replaced the whole lower 6”, it wasn’t a problem. Made up complete new mounts with brass bushings as original. Made a complete back end for mine, as the same, cut and converted to drop down tailgate. You might find the heavy C section below used as a stiffener is actually one half the drawbar!😳 have your leg holes got securing pins to keep the legs secure or a screw and pinch bolt design? pin securing is normally SS Cars. Pinch bolt is Orme Evans, as is one of mine. I have two spare damaged legs I can get sizes from, also the tube gauge and foot size (4 1/2” or 5” I think)
  13. Friend started restoring his K9 but his ‘engine’ box of nuts and bolts etc have gone missing. Looking for either the TREAD SIZE or spare BANJO BOLT (filter?) for the carburettor inlet. Green Machine has some for the Champ, same or not? Carb is the Zenith 42VB. Any help greatly appreciated
  14. Yes, small lug is for handbrake return spring. I think the cut off angle may be for convoy light mount. Had to make all these on mine from just pictures, made the whole 7” of lower trailer from scratch, sides, floor, complete drawbar, all clips, brackets and mounts, even spring hangers
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