Ron

There's plenty on ebay but I can't remember the watage? I guess 8W would give you a reasonable running light without using the headlamp bulb. Ron [ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-4115-6v-8w-BA15S-6-Volt-Motorbike-Motorcycle-Scooter-Classic-Car-Bulbs/231072273220?epid=19016563241&hash=item35ccfb1344:g:MNsAAOSw2fRaqUxT https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-293-6v-4w-BA9S-6-Volt-Motorcycle-Motorbike-Classic-Car-Bulb/222906824756?hash=item33e6483834:g:PwsAAOSwdOdci87r PS these are quite expensive so shop around. I usually buy mine from Brit Bits or at jumbles

Here is a Triumph that made it back. It's an 'impressed' bike and judging by the small headlamp and chrome parts, I'd guess it's a 3SE. Ron

Yes all those frames numbers were prefixed TL. 'I' was never used in the prefix. The next known numbers after Granddads are frame TL 14612 with engine 27606. Which are the only know numbers from 3300 bikes in the next contract in 1940. Knowing the frame number and it's census number enables us to work out a pattern. Ron

PS. The chassis number written in the vehicle details document TL I 3064 is also a mistake. Someone has mistaken the 1 for an I. Ron

Granddad and his mates look very fetching in their 'Bombay Bloomers'. I'll be reading through those documents later, although the BEF period, regiments, divisions etc is right up Rik's street. The vehicle ducument is the provnance we require to fill in the missing frame and engine number details from that contract. For some reason, 249cc has been written in by 'Horse Power' with the correct 343cc in brackets. The bore and stroke is correct for a 350. I've already sent my calculations to Chris Orchard and he says it will be entered in the next revision. (I'll be writing it in my current edition once my maths have been confirmed by Rik/Chris/Jan). I trusted my trusty Triumph (5SW) to Swanage today (50 mile round trip) 😊 Ron

Rik I'd momentarily forgotten those pictures of contract C4631. I've given myself eye strain many times studying them, not least looking to see if I can see which way the horn faces. The DU42 6" headlamps have convinced me that these were based on the pre war 3SE (economy) as nearly all the others had 8" headlamps. Rik have you done any calculations yet? Based on the information supplied by 'Tiger80' Ive calculated the frames for contract C4631 to be TL 12771-13070 with engines 3SW 25741-26040. I'd also love to see some scans from Granddads army documents. Ron

Well that is great information. C3917745 is the bikes census number......Efectivley it's registration number which was painted on the tank. It's the 294th bike from 300 under contract C4631. The contract was demanded on 26th July 39 and delivered at 50 per week and completed on 2nd Oct 39. This is a little snippet of information that can be added to the information that we already know. I'll send it to Chris Orchard who is the co author of 'British Forces Motorcycles' Ron

Well the first one is ear marked for you anyway Mark, but that's two now. I'm sure Jan will post updates on his procress, Ron

Frame TL 13064 should be from for either contracts C3360, C4631 or C5108 for 3SW's all ordered in 1939. (But records lost) Have you any pictures of your Granddad and his bike? Ron

Well the cycle parts will be mostly the same as our 3/5SW's and our 3HW's have a similar 350 ohv engine except for the different cylinder head etc. I know that Brian Tillin has made the engine breather flap valve units..... brian.tillin@icloud.com There is a simple little brass/copper disc inside the body of the valve. The disc can completely wear away and disapear over time, and from memory it's impossible to get at without removing the whole primary side.😣 Mention my name if you want, if you contact Brian. Ron Pier

I have supplied Jan with a sample pre war Triumph rear carrier as fitted to 3/5SW's. I'd say it's about the most complicated of the carriers fitted to WD bikes. He's going to have a go at making one........If it's succesfull,..... and knowing Jan, it will be. he'll probably make a few more to order. Ron

I think Brian Tillin made mine. Ron

Just what you need on ebay! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bsa-Triumph-Ajs-Lucas-Mcr1-2-Regulator-Plate-And-Insulator/113659157142?hash=item1a769d1a96:g:rPcAAOSwzd9cFj5z&frcectupt=true Just two terminal holes on the dynamo F & D for split bullets with the holding kidney plate with single screw. Ron

I think those are a generic WD dumbell knob made in India. They're near enough! Ron

The first twp pictures are the pre-war/3SW toolbox with the pronounced hinges and round knob. Third picture is a 3HW toolbox with piano hinge and 'dumbell' knob. Ron

Originaly Steve the levers would have been matt chrome plated. You can cheat if you are going to paint them anyway with something like Simonize Wheel silver or Cold zinc spray. Ron

I've never known how you can test a regulator as a seperate item. I always start by making sure that the dynamo 'motors' on the bench. Then if I don't get an obvious reading at the ameter when the engine is running. Or the headlamp doesn't get brighter when I rev the engine (in case the ammeter is fualty) I test the dynamo is working ok, by the light bulb method. If the dynamo is working but not charging the battery, it can only be the regulator. At this point I junk the innards and fit a solid state DVR2. Ron

Jeff just emailed me and said if you can't get through for some reason, send me your email address, I'll give it to Jeff and he'll email you which you can reply to. Phew! Ron

PS his email is working fine. I just had an automated respose. Ron

Well I don't think Jeff would change his email address as it's his only usual form of contact. But I've sent him a test mail which hasn't bounced yet. Did you copy it correctly? Best to copy and paste ... jeffalanhunter@aol.com Ron

The original number for the steel plates was T415 now superseded by 57-0415. The other plates are for different models. Ron

The same clutch parts were used right into the 60's I beleive. https://www.draganfly.co.uk/index.php/triumph-shop/1937-1962-pre-unit-twins/category/1280-clutchpu

The modern friction plates (superseding cork) are Surflex plates # 57-1362 I think. Only three required. I fitted an extra steel plate under the clutch cover on my 5SW as I was trying to ellimimate clutch slip whilst kicking through compression. In the end it was too much oil in the chaincase. The books says 3/4 pint, which I think might be errononious. Other Triumph guys I speak to only put enough for the chain to touch, more like 1/3rd pint. I've used ATF on recomendation. Ron

Lucky find with the twist grip. For memory the whole thing should be over 7" long. You can buy the grips from Jeff the rubber man. Mention my name jeffalanhunter@aol.com #79 is the race that should be pressed into your chainwheel. The rollers don't sit in a groove, they sit up against the rim of the top hat part 81 and place them all round with the use of grease, before carfefully putting 81 inside 79 so that none tip. The rollers are cheap as chips but it's important to fit the correct ones. They are 'NOT' as often advertised 1/4 x 1/4 but are in fact about 12 thou shorter on the length........Length is not everything!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-SET-OF-20-CLUTCH-CENTRE-ROLLERS-PRE-UNIT-AND-UNIT-TWINS-57-0394-BSA-A10/352583133774?epid=6004493140&hash=item521797aa4e:g:zZAAAOSw9EJZto8l:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true Ron

To my knowledge engines with plunger type oil pumps (Triumph, Ariel etc) Are not usually that prone to wet sumping. The first and easiest thing to check is the non return ball valve. Bottom left of the timing cover is a hex plug, bihind which is a 7/32" ball (#S70-7) and spring. https://www.draganfly.co.uk/triumph-shop/twin-cylinder/product/37748-ball-bearing-7-32/category_pathway-2 The ball might not be seating properly! After removal, squirt out the seat with say WD40 with the red straw attached and or an air line. Install a new ball, in case the original is misshappen, give the new ball a light sharp tap with a thin drift to create a good seat in the ally case. Check the oil level in your primary case, as excesive oil in the crankcase will leak through the main beaings into your clutch housing .......and ultimately, onto the floor. Ron