Ron

Help from some good guys. The kickstart stop made for me in Stainless steel by Darren from JOB's original, and the WM20 footrests cut, welded and shaped by Dave. Copied from Rob's original. Many thanks. Ron

It's been several weeks of 3 steps forward and 2 steps back!! I had lots of issues with the gearbox which are hopefully becoming resolved. With help from my friends in New Zealand and Australia. Brett-John - Darren. Some of the paintwork was crazing up and I have no idea why? So I had to repaint those parts by using etch primer to block whatever was going on, after rubbing it all down again first.😖 The new brake linings wouldn't fit in the drums, so they went back to "Villiers" who sent them back 3 weeks later exactly the same. On their advice I had to make them fit by sanding a few thou off with strip emery. The rear brake arm is with a mate who is going to make the bush for the brake rod for me, and I bought some 5/16" rod and made the brake rod. (5" of 26tpi hand died down) Ron

Something is obviously amiss. But it's quite simple to remove the outer chaincase, them take the three bolts out to remove the clutch cap and front plate #55 #52 to expose the mushroom end of the pushrod #57. Then you can put your pushrod through the mainshaft and push out whatever obstruction is in there. Ron

This is how the gearbox came with this project! Plus a spare pre-war hand change box. With some advice from Brett in New Zealand I've salvaged quite a nice gear cluster (a few parts came from the other box) all cleaned up and I've removed the main bearing and ordered a sealed version. I am missing some parts for the gear change mechanism though. Ron

Yes Lex, I was going to give them to him anyway. Ron

The head is repaired, blasted and painted. Everything is mostly now ready to go to Ainsley next week. The only thing missing is the new small end bush which hopefully Leon will collect from Ian at Stafford this weekend. He's kipping here on Sunday! The crank case has gone to Steve at Phoenix for vapour blasting and I already have new main bearings in stock. Ron

A lot of the paintwork is now done and I've started the rebuild. I'm still waiting for the brake shoes to come back from Villiers, but I'm hoping to collect my repaired cylinder head tomorrow. By using 6 different sources, I've managed to acquire everything brand new to refurb the head and rockers. I'm also going to use a modified Triumph 750 piston with a compression plate which will take it out to nearly 400cc. Ron

Michal try Garo in Greece garoktirioact@yahoo.gr Ron

Most of the eye bolts that I've seen are drilled through at 5/16". It's my opinion that if the flats in the eye bolt are to be retained, then either the eye bolt must be positioned on the adjuster before the nipple is soldered on, or the ball nipple will need two coresponding flats filed on it. I'll be interested in anyone elses views. Ron

I've bungee'd up my Lycette saddle ready for a cover to be made with my Rexene kook alike material, and I started working on my toolbox. A decent oil tank that doesn't leak arrived yesterday from Stuart Bray. Ron

Tank has sat all afternoon with 5lts of petrol. No weeps thank goodness. Ron

Thanks for the tip Lex. I'll try it with petrol before I proceed further. Ron

I just had a delivery of a couple of nice parts from Hussein in Cairo. Including a rare Burgess air filter in its original condition. Ron

I've been busy spraying the Service Brown. I've got the frame and a lot of the other parts done. The C12 is finally off the bench (not sure why I wanted it? Nostalgia!!) So the B30 frame is now ensconced properly on the bench where the build up can commence. I'm still working on getting the tank back to where it was. Oh and my brake shoes have had to be retuned to Villiers Services as they don't fit into the drums. They had assumed that the linings should be 3/16" but it seems they should be 5/32". I think they have the ability to skim them ?? Ron

I seem to remember there was a "Tankers" holster. Webbing with a longer than normal strap from the belt. Ron

Well by connecting my air line to a petrol tap with low pressure and immersing the tank in water I was able to clearly find the leak and weld it over. The second test proofed that I have cured it. Just some remedial work now to repair the area and a fresh layer of primer over the whole tank I think. Ron

A moment of great disappointment. I thought I'd best check my new petrol tank before any top coat is applied. I stuck a gallon of petrol in and it leaks at one of the rear corners. I'll be paying Terry Roberts a visit next week (Metal Magic) I'm sure he will fix it, but a lot of my primer preparation will be lost. Another warning to others about the quality of Indian parts. Hey Ho! Ron

Dull chrome by the look of the factory pictures. Brian makes his from Stainless Steel, so I just grit blast them. Ron

Jan I have a Terry's universal on my M20 and it needs the triangal support brackets to move the spring mount forward. Seen also on the desert coloured bike. These must have been included as part of the "universal" kit. Ron

I just remade the rear brackets on my Lycette saddle and the oil tank fits OK. Ron

Is it this Simon Warner? https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100009206030291 Ron

I'm using a Lycette "elastic" saddle. I've put new nose brackets on and made some brackets to move the rear mounts forward a bit to line up with the coil springs. I'll also add some extra support welds. The new Bungees are here from Czech Republic. I much prefer the look of the lower pillion bum pad over the "loaf" type shown in original pictures. (less height to swing my leg over too) ...... I'm going to devise some means of making up the gap at the front!!?? Ron

My parts from Jan arrived on Saturday. I've been busy yesterday and today fitting up the pannier frames. Ron

Cast ally John. There is a part number cast inside. I'll check it later. The engine came dismembered, so I don't know if it's all from the same engine. PS. the part number in this cover doesn't comply with my parts list so I guess it's the early version that goes with the hair pin spring head that I have. I'm more than happy with the early head once I've converted it.

I worked on the head today. Removed the rocker shafts, hair pin springs, valves, guides etc. which where all seized solid. I'm taking it to Shepton tomorrow to give to an expert to repair the broken fins. I'll be rebuilding it with all new coil spring parts. Ron